Export Brace & Monte Carlo Bar

6R07K · July 14, 2010 at 6:01 PM

G'day Everyone

I'm trying to decide whether to change to a heavy duty export brace and/or Monte Carlo bar. On previous cars I have changed to the heavy duty export brace and loved the improvement as my area has a lot of round abouts.

Does the heavy duty export brace effect the cars value, as I see a lot with them?

Would just the Monte Carlo bar be a more passive addition from original?

Cheers

Ben

jwc66k · July 14, 2010 at 6:26 PM

As the two items are bolt on types, the value should not change. That is assuming that the additional two holes for the Monte Carlo bar are not drilled. With a bit of show and tell to a prospective owner, the advantages of both should be appreciated. All four of my Mustangs have both brace and bar with the old firewall braces stores away.

Jim

6R07K · July 14, 2010 at 7:24 PM

Do you get any movement in the bar without the additional holes being done?

rds289k · July 14, 2010 at 8:10 PM

On what cars were the brace and bar available, and what cars were typically fitted with them? Was it a dealer-installed performance option?

Thanks!

CharlesTurner · July 14, 2010 at 9:43 PM

The export brace was typically installed on some, but not all, cars with export DSO's. They were also installed by Ford as part of the build options for Shelby's. It is a common myth that Shelby did the Export brace modifications. It was done at the Ford assembly plant, including the welded on washers for the shock tower caps.

The monte carlo brace was a dealer item, probably made more popular by the use of it as standard equipment in 65-66 GT350 cars.

jwc66k · July 14, 2010 at 11:02 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Do you get any movement in the bar without the additional holes being done?

No.

66gtk · July 15, 2010 at 9:37 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Do you get any movement in the bar without the additional holes being done?

No.

My '65 clone only has 2 of the 4 bolt holes in use as well with no problems that I am aware of.

dunc289_old · July 15, 2010 at 10:53 AM

How do you install a Monte Carlo bar without drilling holes?? <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

jwc66k · July 15, 2010 at 11:02 AM

A Monte Carlo Bar uses holes for existing bolts that attach the shield that goes around the coil spring (upper A arm bumper bracket). The bolts used on top should use not use a washer (either part of the bolt or a separate one) as the bolt head is raised enough to rub the bottom of the hood.

Jim

6R07K · July 15, 2010 at 4:46 PM

Thanks Guys

Think I'll give the bar a go.

Cheers

Ben

cobraboy · July 16, 2010 at 2:33 AM

I recently fitted both items. I did not drill the extra hole for the monte carlo bar, there is no movement.

The improvement was dramatic.

FunStang65_old · July 16, 2010 at 10:02 PM

I would also agree with adding both items. My Konvertible showed dramatic improvement with both and I did not drill any additional holes. I can go right back to stock original any time I want and I enjoy the better driving experience until then.

rds289k · July 17, 2010 at 12:03 AM

Where can one purchase a Monte? If I cannot get an NOS, I'd like something that looks original. Vendor suggestions?

Thanks!

C6ZZKGT · July 17, 2010 at 2:31 AM Official Post

Ronald, An NOS Monte Carlo bar would be a very tough find. An original off of a GT 350 would be the next best however the aftermarket ones that I have seen all seem to fit and work well. In regards to the export brace, I would highly recommend a Ford piece that is either good used or NOS. The Ford ones are generally heavier gauge and better fitting. You do not need to remove the welded on attachments for the original engine compartment braces at the shock towers as the export brace sits on top of them. That way you can go back to original at any time. I have installed many export braces on these cars and the biggest problem is that the cars sag from old age. The shock towers are constantly trying to move inward toward each other. Most of the time I can jack the car up on the crossmember that bolts on beneath the engine and this will generally spread the shock towers back to where I can install the export brace. Sometimes a Porta Power needs to be used to spread the shock towers further in extreme cases. Keep in mind that any spreading of the shock towers makes for more positive camber on your front end so you will need an alignment after you do this.

-Fred-

club 33_old · July 17, 2010 at 5:48 AM

There are two qualities of reproduction Export Braces available. One is very, very nice. It is just as nice as the Ford service part that used to be available.

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-70-BLACK-EX…LITY-P1239.aspx

BoS_old · July 17, 2010 at 7:25 AM

The easiest way of fitting an export brace on a car that didn't have one from the factory (with reenforcement bracket at the cowl)is to get the 67-68 model with the holes paired on each side. No new holes

need to be drilled. As regards the Monte Carlo Bar, make sure you get

one that's sturdy like the original and where the bar welded at the edges of the brackets. Some repos have the bar welded about

one inch down on each side bracket. The latter makes a tight fit over the distributor cap.

/Bo

jwc66k · July 17, 2010 at 10:03 AM

There is one factor that needs to be added about Monte Carlo bars, the thickness of the end mounting brackets. I had an unusual situation last week with a two bars that had different thicknesses. It was a strange situation as the thinner end bar "came off" a Shelby but the owner had another bar he had purchased. It gets more complicated as I have another Shelby that I'm storing but that gave me another reference, plus my own "K" car's bar that I knew was an aftermarket bar. All bars were the straight type.

Here's my findings on end bracket thicknesses:

- "came off" a Shelby - 0.093 inch

- customer bought - 0.130

- stored Shelby - 0.128

- my "K" car - 0.120

Some more info: the "came off" bar was on the car since at least 1968; customer bought bar was from a reputable source; the stored Shelby's bar was on the car since 1975 (the Shelby was raced so who knows if it is original). The customer bought bar has holes in the bracket where the bar was attached, and it does "feel heavier" than the "came off" bar. All bar diameters were within 0.003 of the nominal diameter of 1.000 inch, but there is no way I could determine wall thickness.

I would look for a bar with mounting brackets thickness of 0.125 to 0.130 inch and a "heavy" feel.

Jim

rds289k · July 18, 2010 at 3:31 AM

Thanks for the info. Since my car is coming back restored to original, I don't think I'll have support issues that rust and sagging would have caused. Also, it didn't have an export DSO, so I think I will forgo an Export Brace to keep it as dealer original appearing as possible. Any opinions on the improvement in handling with just a Monte Carlo bar?

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