please merge 66gtk
please merge 66gtk
Unfortunately, I don't think this is an issue exclusive to the Arvinode system.
Yep, I removed it when I put the carpet in, and now I'm going back to the console. I got all new reproduction metal top pieces and repainted it to look like new again. I like to keep things changing every once in a while
I have an SPL meter and an HD camera/tripod. I think it would be cool to compare this exhaust at various RPM and distances from the car with my stock GT exhaust. Too bad I can't get out of my neighborhood with my road conditions. Perhaps me and cheesepocket need to get geeky in the spring and make some videos.
Love it! Can't wait to check it out in person. Please, let's do this soon.
Welcome to the site - glad you are finally here.
kind of crowded on the left - no? where is it suppose to go?
I have to let things simmer before attacking again. A clear head does wonders
In the meantime, here's how I found my floors. Did the factory use all this sealer, or a PO? It's a Dearborn car. Also note the high beam, power top and fog light wiring....any comments? Looks like a repair splice and a bunch of old original wiring.
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010482-002.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010485-005.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010481-001.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010484-004.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010487-007.jpg]
I suppose I could try cutting out the carpet around the bracket base, but the under carpet padding is already cut in this area and if I cut the carpet, there is no turning back. not sure it will give me much more clearance - maybe an 1/8"??? I will try it. Do I at least have it positioned the right way? If it's flush to the floor, will I have trouble getting my console to seat close enough to the floor with the thick carpet and such?
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010492-012.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010492-013.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/consolejuly2011/P1010494-014.jpg]
Edited by - 66gtk on 07/27/2011 16:03:42
Edited by - 66gtk on 07/27/2011 16:05:19
I just spent 3 hours in my very hot garage trying to install my full length console in my convertible. I removed the choke cable bracket and all the seats. I was able to test fit it in there without the support braket. Once I installed the metal support braket (area under the glove box), I cannot get the console in there. I can't see how it will fit under the dash and get over this bracket. The bracket will not install if the console is in place first, so what can I do? Also, the shift lever (4 speed) in the way also is a bit of a problem, but not as much as the clearance under the dash.
I have mass backed carpet w/jute over the factory style sound deadening mat. It was killer trying to get the bracket to even mount through all this, but I eventually got it done and tightened down.
Edited by - 66gtk on 07/28/2011 15:42:48
I have no idea - however, if you like the car it sounds like you have a nice find there. I wouldn't let this detail detour you from moving along with a purchase.
wow - what a thread - seriously confusing. My Dearborn (July, '66) convertible has undercoating, so hard to tell - no signs of red oxide, but I haven't started scraping/stripping and I don't plan to since I like driving it the way it is.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
15k is his price...his reasoning is the sum total of the car & parts are worth that..if that price is at all firm he may as well sell the parts separately. Paying 15k for a project & spending another 15k to restore it over 1,2,3 years...makes no sense IMO, better to simply buy a finished car for 30k that you can enjoy right now.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
YEP - You could go buy a new 5.0 GT right off the lot now and the parts are worth more than the whole car.
agreed on your low estimate. I usually triple what I think things will cost as well as the time to complete it. I usually get closer to reality that way
Congratulations on a job well done!!! Kar looks great
If you plan to sell either car, why paint it? (unless you do this kind of work yourself) A bad (cheap) paint job done to quickly SELL a car can usually be spotted, and if so leads to a lot of questions about the integrity of the rest of the car. Why not come up with a price you can't refuse for either of the cars and list them both at the same time and see what happens?
Body style? Colors? Location? Build Date?
This is believed to be an original service replacement with date code of August, 1969. Therefore, it is not the same as the current reproductions, but indeed identical to the original GT350 carbs found on '65-67 cars. This one was removed from my dad's GT350H in 2006 to be replaced with the correct Autolite. It was working fine when removed and hasn't even been cleaned. It was stored without gas, but would likely need a kit since it's been sitting so long. Plating looks good with nice patina, and should clean up nicely without needing a full restoration. Complete with manual choke pieces. It's been sitting on the shelf since and is available now to free up some $$ for other needed improvements. Asking
$900 $725. Also interested in trade for Autolite 4100 for my '66 4 speed car.
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0008.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0007.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0006.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0005.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0002.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/carbintakke/0000.jpg]
Edited by - 66gtk on 06/03/2011 09:37:4
Edited by - 66gtk on 06/03/2011 09:39:09
Edited by - 66gtk on 06/03/2011 09:40:09