What year, what build date? You realized there are two styles.
Jim
What year, what build date? You realized there are two styles.
Jim
Are you aware that there are about 1490 HP VINs listed in "The High Performance Mustang" Fourth Edition by Tony Gregory.
Jim
It took a while but I did determine my old account and the current "new" are the same - jwc66k - so would you please merge them for me.
Jim
The process to get here is awkward, but I'm back.
6R09K121xxx
I recomend a good ol' 'Merican tradition - cash. As far as PayPal goes, follow the PayPal payment method.
Jim
On my Oct, 65 San Jose "K" Fastback, most of the engine's VIN is barely visible as in lightly stamped. It is in sort of a straight line and the most visible character in my VIN is the "1" (I have three in the number part of the VIN) but it is nothing more than a vertical line. I believe that they were hand stamped so the "1" (or "|") has the least amount of surface contact of any character and would be imprinted deeper in the block. Your "K" looks like that vertical line used to create a worn or missing (lost, misplaced or stolen) "K".
Jim
- it's about as "HP" as you can get -
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set…38411559&type=1
Go Navy -
Jim
USN (A long, long time ago)
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VIN # is 5F09K371XXX
Greg
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Thank you. The partial VIN indicates the enigine was used in a Fastback built in Detroit mid Dec, 1965. It cannot be from a Shelby.
Jim
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Ok say I just stole a K car. Now I need an identity to put on it. So here is an engine VIN that belongs to a long dead car. So I roll out my car, now with its new VIN and no DMV's computor is going to say 'hang on a minute, we have two of those'.
My reasoning is to not help the fraudster.
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It's not as easy as all that, you still need mucho (a West coast term) paperwork and some effort that is supposed to originate from the criminal that is, for the most part, lazy. A lot of those who tried that stunt in California reside in a small community Southeast of San Rafael.
Jim
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Hey Guys,
Is it a good idea to post a VIN ?
I have a 289 HP engine listed for sale and the first question is what is the VIN #.
I have heard of some problems where people use that info to title fake cars (Boss, Shelby's HiPo's etc).
Greg
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I posed the general question as you are right about fakes. The most expensive variety is a Shelby/Boss fake, ther most common is the engine as in "not stamped". If you have a genuine "K" block, the VIN is critical but the last three numbers can be "XXXed" out and that will satisy most on the forum. You will find that on e-bay, Craigs's list and a few good dealers selling Mustangs that the VIN is the key selling point. On a block, no VIN, not a Hi-Po.
Jim
In Tony's Gregory's book (4th ed) you will find my VIN and 1489 others.
Edited by - jwc66k on 07/24/2011 10:41:40
Dave,
Check your e-mail.
Jim
The VIN, if present, should be stamped on the right hand front side below and a about an inch to the rear of the battery ground tapped hole and above the oil pan mounting surface.
Jim
This looks like a good place to re-start on coil springs.
I pulled mine off my Oct 65 San Jose "K" car and found a brown stripe on each. My question is the location of the stripes. Yes they are vertical so that is not in question. Further up this post is a visible spring stripe. Looking at what Charles has on his blogs http://65kresto.blogspot.com/ and other pages, his coil springs are striped so as to be visible when the springs are installed as well. I would assume for a visible aid to QA too.
Mine are definately on the opposite side about 45 degrees from the bottom end, not visible when installed. (I don't do a proxy picture post but will e-mail picture upon request).
The question is - where are the stripes located?
Jim
Hank,
Thanks for the feedback.
Jim
After three days, 16 - 19, the site has returned.
Jim
Look at the fitting in Mannel's book, page 6-31, fig. 6K1.
Jim
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Outer cover was wet on the down of the cover. What check ball?Where it is?What that ball do?
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Vacuum passage check ball: "- located in the vacuum passage in the diaphram housing, controls the rate at which the secondary throttle plates are allowed to open."
You need to invest in a Shop Manual for your car. The one on disc is probably your best choice. I'll make some time later and scan the page from mine manual and send the picture and text to you via e-mail.
Jim
There should be no fuel in that diaphram. It gets a vacuum from the primary venturi and that vacuum opens up the secondary plates from the diaphram arm to the secondary plate shaft. There is a cast-in divider "tube" in the top of the carburetor about 1/4 in dia (6mm) about 2 inches long (50mm) centered between the two secondary venturies that is the source of the vacuum. If that "tube" is broken, no vacuum. That was the problem I had on a 4100 carburetor from a 1961 full size Ford 352CID engine.
Jim
There's an old saying - "Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?"
If you got to ask, you can't afford "it".
That being said; NPD, Virginia Classic, Mustangs Unlimited and others have decent replacement parts.
Jim
Re Bob Mannel's book, pg 6-7, "- about March 1966 -" and "- mixed types -" but I think that was specific to standard rods.
On pg I-3 of the Appendix and pg 3-10 (3A9) the identification gets "muddled". Rod marking is the same for HP as standard, C3AE (no dash letter is shown) a full size Ford p/n, but the inventory number is C3OZ-6200-C, a Fairlane p/n. A dash letter of "-D" is referenced in the HP book as an ID of the rod (C3AE-D). Remember, using the Ford p/n system, the marking on the box does not necessarily mean the part inside is correct.
Jim