Posts by jwc66k

    I don't know how may times I've "registered" my "K" car. I'm in the "Mustang Production Guide, Vol 1" (I've had dinner with Jim Smart, and am listed in the credits of Vol 2). I'm listed in "The 289 High Performance Mustang" (Tony and I communicated on this one). I'm a poster in the "Concours Mustang Forum" and a couple of other Mustang related forums (some, unfortunately no longer active). So, did this "new" registry contact the previous "HP Registries" to get a "running start"?

    Jim

    Your door data plate date code should be 20R, which is April 20, 1965. That is a scheduled build date, the actual can be a week either before or after. In effect, nothing on the car "should" have a date after April 20. Ford date codes have several formats and the best source for decoding that is the Concours Mustang Forum. Typically, a week before on sheet metal, two weeks for seats, three and up for "K" engines and "K" transmissions. The picture shows the engine assembly date.

    Jim

    I guess its up to me to say welcome. Your 65 GT is what, a hardtop, convertible or fastback? And where was it built, the first five characters of the VIN spell that out (mine is 6R09K. . . . see below). If I may make a recommendation, join the Concours Mustang forum too. That site is more oriented to assembly line originality (and picky on details). Fred, the "man" on this site, restores fuel pumps, so keep that in mind.

    Jim

    .

    Date codes N thru Z (no "O" was used) are for second year build cars using the same year in the VIN, like 64 1/2 and 65 both used the "5" as the first character in the VIN. For components, distributors, carburetors, fenders, etc, the letters A thru M (again, no "I") were used.

    Jim

    On my Oct, 65 San Jose "K" Fastback, most of the engine's VIN is barely visible as in lightly stamped. It is in sort of a straight line and the most visible character in my VIN is the "1" (I have three in the number part of the VIN) but it is nothing more than a vertical line. I believe that they were hand stamped so the "1" (or "|") has the least amount of surface contact of any character and would be imprinted deeper in the block. Your "K" looks like that vertical line used to create a worn or missing (lost, misplaced or stolen) "K".

    Jim

    Quote from ponyman

    VIN # is 5F09K371XXX


    Greg

    Thank you. The partial VIN indicates the enigine was used in a Fastback built in Detroit mid Dec, 1965. It cannot be from a Shelby.

    Jim

    Quote from cobraboy

    Ok say I just stole a K car. Now I need an identity to put on it. So here is an engine VIN that belongs to a long dead car. So I roll out my car, now with its new VIN and no DMV's computor is going to say 'hang on a minute, we have two of those'.

    My reasoning is to not help the fraudster.

    It's not as easy as all that, you still need mucho (a West coast term) paperwork and some effort that is supposed to originate from the criminal that is, for the most part, lazy. A lot of those who tried that stunt in California reside in a small community Southeast of San Rafael.

    Jim

    I posed the general question as you are right about fakes. The most expensive variety is a Shelby/Boss fake, ther most common is the engine as in "not stamped". If you have a genuine "K" block, the VIN is critical but the last three numbers can be "XXXed" out and that will satisy most on the forum. You will find that on e-bay, Craigs's list and a few good dealers selling Mustangs that the VIN is the key selling point. On a block, no VIN, not a Hi-Po.

    Jim

    In Tony's Gregory's book (4th ed) you will find my VIN and 1489 others.

    The VIN, if present, should be stamped on the right hand front side below and a about an inch to the rear of the battery ground tapped hole and above the oil pan mounting surface.

    Jim

    This looks like a good place to re-start on coil springs.

    I pulled mine off my Oct 65 San Jose "K" car and found a brown stripe on each. My question is the location of the stripes. Yes they are vertical so that is not in question. Further up this post is a visible spring stripe. Looking at what Charles has on his blogs http://65kresto.blogspot.com/ and other pages, his coil springs are striped so as to be visible when the springs are installed as well. I would assume for a visible aid to QA too.

    Mine are definately on the opposite side about 45 degrees from the bottom end, not visible when installed. (I don't do a proxy picture post but will e-mail picture upon request).

    The question is - where are the stripes located?

    Jim