Posts by cobraboy

    Thank you Fred.
    I have to own up, I sold my K code some while ago, it now resides in Spain. I had a wonderful time with it and still hold a flame for the cars. I got the car to the stage where it was needing nothing and the fun for me was learning about and finding missing parts. When the car was complete again I was lost for what to do with it.
    Driving it over here in the UK was getting more and more challenging, so many idiots on the road, it was only a matter of time before something bad happened.
    Original sheet metal is only original once, I decided to let someone else have the worry.

    I hope the admin here have success in combining the old forums, it was an unbelievable resource to have during my restoration.

    Best wishes


    I agree. I have only the bare minimum on the decal front. I was curious as to what decals were in fact fitted as to one or both.

    Thanks for the location.

    There are not too many MCA judges hiding out round here, but I am trying to get a little of it right<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    From the MCA RuleS:

    "D. Tire Pressure Decal: 65 - may or may not have decal. 66 - in glove box on back left corner or on inside of glove box door. 65-66 - Red Line tires must have Red Line decal on glove box door. T5 may have MUSTANG deleted ......... 1"

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    Is there a different ( unique ) decal for Red line tires ?

    OK I hear what y'all are saying. In the UK we have a single national database of all car VIN and engine numbers. So if a dupicate pops up the boys in blue go and hammer on someones door.

    Now if someone were to want to sell a stolen car, yes they could make up a VIN in the right format, but surely it would be advantagous to use a real VIN, from a car that is known to have been scrapped long enough ago to make tracing back not possible.

    Much in the same way that people have stolen identities from tombstones and applied for birth certificates etc.

    Why do people not list their cars VIN on an ebay advert ? surely it is to prevent scammers using it.

    I make sure that no one can see my VIN when I post pics, perhaps I am too cautious.

    I hope the motor has a number after all this <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Ok say I just stole a K car. Now I need an identity to put on it. So here is an engine VIN that belongs to a long dead car. So I roll out my car, now with its new VIN and no DMV's computor is going to say 'hang on a minute, we have two of those'.

    My reasoning is to not help the fraudster.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Mark, You may be able to move the bracket but the numbers will still be wrong.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    The way my eyes are going I will be lucky to read the license plate by this time next year <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Fair comment Fred. Sometimes though the impossible to find parts,........ are...... well impossible to find.

    Unless of course your name is Fred Ballard, and you have a big shed.

    <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

    Jack at Dead Nuts On found me one.

    The regulator ones seem easier to get. I wonder if you could move the bracket over a bit on one of those ?. I thought about doing this before I found mine.

    I was going to grind the little spot welds with a Dremmel, then fix the bracket back with some JB Weld. I reckon it would work.

    Well today I re bushed the Z bar. Not a nice job as the exhausts I have are not correct and run close to the bar. Anyhow I got all the felts and washers on, filled the bar up with grease and pushed the pins in the ends.

    Ray I did the test, and boy does that thing go !!! so it is pulling down to the floor. But as I had it set it was in 'limbo' when up and not pulling up at all. So I removed a piece of packing under the stop, set the pedal about 1/2" above the brake, re did the clearance and now it pulls up OK.

    The clutch is much smoother, and I think a tad lighter. And with the extra travel on the pedal nicer to use.

    Thank you all for the help.



    Yes I have the big spring. But I did not know that it functioned in the way you describe. So I wonder by having the clutch pedal set level with the brake pedal this spring is not operating in the 'range' that it is supposed to.

    I will re set the stop so the pedal comes further up.

    I did not like it coming up high as I found I was having to lift my leg up so high to get on the pedal, this did not make for relaxed driving.