Posts by rds289k

    The rear end on my car is howling and I'm not sure if it is because the gears in it are rusty or worn too much. I did a visual and the teeth looked mostly intact, but those that were not in oil as it sat up had rusted. I cleaned them up and put it back together to see how it would sound, put in the standard amount of gear oil, and - howling under thrust, not as much when off the power.

    Any ideas out there on remedies I could try short of a total rebuild?


    I have an HEH-T in my Mar 1 65 Dearborn FB with the Kar VIN clearly stamped into its spine. Several parts on my Kar are so-called 64.5, so I am not surprised that it has an HEH-T trans. Nor am I concerned

    Like other manufacturers of this era, they did not always follow the book. And then, of course, they destroyed the (record) book later. Keep in mind how these were put together.

    Drive 'em!

    Thanks for the input. Yes, I'll take you up on the fittings. I keep running into Fitz, maybe someday will connect on the battery...

    In the meantime, I guess I'll get out the black spray can. Argh!

    At the AACA SE meet in Charlotte April 9 I had my engine bay judged by an MCA-affiliated judge, who told me that the disc brake master cylinder bodies should be black instead of 'natural' per (current) MCA opinion, and that I would be docked in an MCA event for sporting natural metal color. Unless I 'corrected' it.

    Does anyone in the group have an original engine bay picture showing the original state of a disc brake master cylinder? I'd like to see what originally came on Mustangs for this option: painted, or natural.

    I'd like my Kar to look 'correct' when I show it without being obsessive. My class is concours trailered, so this is not a thoroughbred class Kar. Leaf springs natural, master cylinder painted; I can't keep up with all of the changes demanded by this group, and it seems that they have changed their requirements for 'original appearance' since I've been restoring my Mar 65 Dearborn FB.

    Five years, three months: I can't believe it's done!

    Please post a picture of an original master cylinder (in place) if you have one, and thanks in advance!

    For 1966, the '5' means you had a 3.50 rear end, which was pretty standard V-8 stuff.

    Your 4D24 number appears to be that part's date code, which would be that part was made on Friday, April 24, 1964. There is another piece off the pumpkin which also has its own date code as well. Similar format. If you clean up the parts, you will notice about 5 sets of numbers on the assembled pieces. You may have to decide yourself which date code you want placed on the tag if you have one made.

    Assuming that you have a 9" rear axle, your tag would read:

    first line: WCZ-S [assuming standard rear end]

    Second line: 3.50:1 [Build Date] [Plant Code - 3 digits]

    Kevin Marti makes these tags. Look up Marti Auto Works online. Get your numbers straight first, however.

    Good luck!

    This tag came with the bumper on my car, which had no date code on it, so I suspect the bumper was a replacement:

    C5ZZ-17906-A [Ford]

    Can anyone out there confirm the part number?

    Much obliged,


    There are some part numbers on the differential near where it connects to the driveshaft. It would help to post those.

    Also, assuming that the rear end came with the car, the door tag on the driver's side has a number or letter code along the top row, second from right end, that would identify the axle ratio. These codes vary depending on the year of the car (and axle).

    Were the wiper arms on a 65 both the same length or different?

    I have two of slightly different lengths - one is about 1/4" longer, so I am assuming that it goes on the driver side.

    Can anyone on the forum confirm whether they should be the same or different lengths (as I mentioned)?

    Much obliged!

    Well: you got me there. I'm not sure what I need. I've seen the repro batteries at the shows with the red caps that everyone sports. What are those?

    For reference, I have a plain-Jane 65 K FB: no pony, no a/c, no nuttin' but Kar.

    Would someone who has done the gusset modification mind posting a diagram with recommended gusset placements and diagram where to put the zerk?

    BTW, in case anyone is thinking to ask, I bought the Gregory book and the Mannel book as well. Always try to support the troops.

    Much obliged

    I have a Mar 65 Dearborn and have read the posts regarding the driveshaft stripes and the letter/number combinations. My script appears to be the 19078- one. Not too sure of the last set of digits.

    The script color looks different than the end stripe in all of the photos. For someone who has done this, was it a spray can color or an oil crayon? Recommendations?

    And: recommendations on the stripe colors? I have two, but cannot make out the colors. One at the end, one near the script. From what I've seen, it looks like yellow at the end is default, followed by green, and then white if there is a third stripe. Comments?

    Thanks in advance,