I don't think you're being unreasonable at all. But my advice would be DON'T BUY THAT CAR FROM THAT GUY!!!!! DON'T DO IT!!!!! Just back out now. Take the ding on your ebay feedback or whatever, but don't close the deal.
The offer of a $1K price reduction was more than generous in my opinion.
There are plenty of other cars out there, so maybe you should just wait for the right one to come along. Skip this deal.
RECOMMENDED TEMPLATE: Sold for <b>final sale price</b> by seller
BuyItNow set at <b>bin price</b>(also post BIN if there is one for comparison) <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>description here<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
Was the serial number on the block ever verified?
In the end, ask yourself: "Do I want a car, or a piece of paper.." It's not like your winning bid was out of line with the value of this car. I think you should see it in person B4 making any more decisions. It will likely get resold in the near future for more than $26K - GT or not.
In addition to some of the GT authentication points above, the car should have the frame rail reinforcements in the rear for the duals with trumpets.
All 65 and 66 'K' cars came with a dual exhaust system so they all have the frame rail reinforcements. That's why a 'K' GT is easier to fake.
Jim
I have sent pictures of the underneath to one of the members here, he feels it looks correct to be a Hi-Po body. It does trouble me that BJ Auction had it listed as a Mustang, not a GT or even a K code. It was sold this year at the Fl. sale.
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In addition to some of the GT authentication points above, the car should have the frame rail reinforcements in the rear for the duals with trumpets.
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It would be of interest to check the dash panel to confirm it is configured for the GT style gauges. We've noted on this site how the bottom of the dash panel is slightly rounded off to provide ample clearance for the speedometer on a factory GT. Check the reverse side of both front fenders to see if there is evidence of filled holes where the "PONY" and "MUSTANG" ornaments attach on all non GT Mustangs. (Keep in mind that these front fenders can be swapped with "used" GT sheet metal from another car, but there are date codes on factory panels which are hard to match to another car's assembly date.) You can also check the rear quarter panels to see if the chrome ornament mounting holes were filled...
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
All 65 and 66 'K' cars came with a dual exhaust system so they all have the frame rail reinforcements. That's why a 'K' GT is easier to fake.
Jim
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The early '65 K code Mustangs (January-February) were using the Arvinode dual exhaust system, which do not have the same hanger location in the rear frame rails as later cars do. I would guess this changeover happened at the <i>end of February</i>, when GT production started. My car was built in Feb/March of '65, and has the earlier style hanger location, which is forward of the later location...
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>You can also check the rear quarter panels to see if the chrome ornament mounting holes were filled...<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
That's a great idea! And not nearly as hard as it sounds. Just pop the back seat, take off the window crank, a few screws on the interior panel, and you're in. If you're careful, you don't have to remove the sill plate.
Edited by - toolbox on 07/21/2007 16:59:52
Sorry, but the home work should have been done before the bid. I think you sould pay the man the money and start enjoying the car. When I bought my 66 Shelby it had the Ford VIN on the block. I was real disappointed to find out it wasn't the original engine. It didn't even have Hipo rods in it. I have been having a blast with it ever since.
Larry
It looks like a nice car even if it's not proved to be a GT. At $26k (verifying all the correct K items) I don't think a person would be over paying. If you compare what it would cost to buy a project and restore to the same condition you'd have more than $26k into the car. If you have a K code car requiring losts of K specific parts, be prepared to pay. A set of motor mounts just went for over $2k.
While having a Sunday build date is certainly anamoly, this isn't the only documented car with one. Here's another interesting bit of trivia, per the "In Search of Mustangs" book, VIN 5F08K645146 was produced on 28B (Sunday, two weeks following the car in question). It is also notated that it is a GT. This car is also in the Hipo Registry with the same data.
There is also another K code: VIN 5F09K721249 listed in the Hipo Registry with a scheduled build date with a Sunday (09S - May 9th, 1965)
I'd be willing to bet if I continued researching there are others out there with Sunday scheduled build dates listed.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>All 65 and 66 'K' cars came with a dual exhaust system so they all have the frame rail reinforcements. That's why a 'K' GT is easier to fake.
Jim <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
We have researched this quite a bit and it is incorrect. The early transverse dual cars and the cars that were equipped with the Arvinode system prior to the introduction of the GT's do not have frame rail reinforcements. The frame rail reinforcements were introduced to support the GT dual systems. At the MCA National in Concord in June there were 8 K codes and I checked the frame rails in 7 of the 8. The early cars did not have the reinforcements. We have been lobbying to get Tony to publish a correction to his book.
Edited by - round2K on 07/21/2007 20:19:43
Thanks for all the input folks. I have decided to buy and drive the car with no strings attached. If even one person questions my reputation by not buying it that will trouble me. After I pick it up I'll look into all the details listed here and let everyone know. I just got tired of all the brain damage, at the end of the day, how far wrong can the price be. I have owned fake A code GT 350s for close to the same $. Scott
Well guess what happened?
I sent the $2000 deposit and drove all the way down to West Palm with my trailer and $ in hand. The VIN section of the inner fender was clearly welded into the panel! The front inner panel was a replacement as well as the left rear quarter. After pointing this out to the seller he agreed that it looks as if it had been welded in there. I explained to him that I felt that was a huge issue since it is the first thing to check on any Hi-Po Mustang and would surely be a problem for me later and now. When I asked for my deposit back he said his wife does the PayPal stuff. Four Days later he decided that it was my responsibility to check it before bidding and if when he relisted it the bidding goes over $26,000 he would refund my deposit! I expected that the moment I left his house so this was no great surprise. A great lesson for me after 30 years of cars. I did tell him that I was very interested to see how he describes the car in his new auction. I hope someone else doesn't get taken too.
Thanks everyone for all your efforts.
Scott
Hi Scott.
Sorry to hear about all the problems you've had. That would take a lot of the fun out of finding the kar of your dreams.
I'm not sure if you can still do this on ebay, but when I knew a listing was bogus, I emailed the highest bidder about the obvious flaws. He asked the right question and the seller withdrew the car from sale (probably sold it to some other sucker)
It would pay to keep an eye out. Just my two cents worth.
Good luck in the future, I hope you find your K.
Best regards,
René
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Well guess what happened?
The VIN section of the inner fender was clearly welded into the panel! The front inner panel was a replacement as well as the left rear quarter. After pointing this out to the seller he agreed that it looks as if it had been welded in there...When I asked for my deposit back he...decided that it was my responsibility to check it before bidding, and if when he relisted it, the bidding goes over $26,000 he would refund my deposit!...A great lesson for me after 30 years of cars...I was very interested to see how he describes the car in his new auction. I hope someone else doesn't get taken too.
Thanks everyone for all your efforts.
Scott
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WOW! What an outcome...Sometimes it seems as though there isn't an ounce of integrity left anymore.
Sorry to hear that. Good luck in your search.
Larry
If you paid through Paypal, you should have some recourse through ebay. You should immediately file a claim.
In addition to what Charles told you I would be contacting the local police. It sounds to me this could be considered fraud. I'm sure the local auto theft unit would love to see the altered VIN.
Good Luck,
Gary
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