Posts by Belmont_old

    Hi Cheesepocket, welcome to the forum. Nice car !


    Any chance you could get your hands on a sound meter and give me a decibel reading standing 20 ft away from drivers door and with the engine turning 4500rpm ?


    Thanks

    Hi Dave


    It doesn't often get down to -25C here, but our winters are still a challenge for our classics.


    Lots of things you can do to preserve your toy, but dry storage is essential as condensation is your worst enemy. With extreme temperatures you may want to look into a car capsule.


    [Blocked Image: http://www.carcapsule.com/CarCapsule_Car_Cover_Images/Your_CarCapsule_Photos/Vehicle_Cover.jpg]




    Better yet although pricier,the Airflow Airchamber




    [Blocked Image: http://www.copperstaronline.com/images/orange2.jpg]




    These will protect from moist and vermin, and also act as a buffer for temperature swings which create condensation.


    At the least, if you have a concrete floor, put a sheet of plastic or a tarp under the car.




    I have read all sorts of opinions on fluids. Some say it is a good idea to drain all fluids, some say good antifreeze is enough. One thing for sure, a full gas tank is better than an empty one. If you put a stabilizer in the fuel, run the engine a little while so it goes all the way into the carb.




    Battery must be removed and stored in a warmer place if possible.


    Lots of air in the tyres. Some jack the car up. I would use the suspension rather than the frame in that case.




    Silicone spray on all rubber weather stripping and seals.


    Lubricate hinges and latches on doors, hood and trunk.


    Do not use parking brake.




    Here is what springs to mind. Surely others will chime in with more.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    I don't have ready access to a DB meter, but they will have one at the race track at the Northwest Mustang Roundup next week in Washington. I can probably get a reading for you when I'm there.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    Very cool thanks Dave. This forum rocks and it is the people here that make it that way.

    Hi Charlie


    How right you are ! Funnily enough, I also served in the Air Force (the French one) and had a Master Sgt who was a right PITA as well.




    Here in Switzerland, the noise standard used for my classic is actually expressed on my car registration. When I imported the car, I had to go through a technical inspection at the "Cantonal DMV". They ran the procedure as described above, and came up with 77dB as the noise my car was making at a stabilised 4500rpm. That was set as the threshold level I cannot cross.


    Now a couple years have gone by, time for the new inspection, at the local DMV this time. My car does not have a rally pac, so the guy uses an electronic impulse counter, and plays with the settings until he thinks he's got the right mode for a v8. His colleague stands 7m away from the car, holds the sonometer at belt level, and signals he is ready for measurement. The guy in the car brings the engine to 4500 rpm, and nods to the other man who takes the reading.


    It is exactly the same procedure they used the first time around, so I am thinking there wont be a problem. But the man comes up with a higher reading than 77dB. Argh... So I tell him that last time round, the guy eased off the pedal a little to stabilize at 4500 rpm, and this time they didnt do it. No sir, standard procedure here.


    So i tell them there is a wall not too far behind the car and that is also affecting the reading. No sir, standard procedure here.


    So i ask him if I can go and perform the same test in the Cantonal DMV for comparison. No sir, what starts here ends here.


    There is no reasoning these people. For all I know the guy was in a bad mood, or jealous, or something like that. Maybe Madame was not so keen the previous evening...


    Back to my problem, I have to find a way to get under the 77dB now.


    The fact is the car IS very loud, a tad softer wouldn't really hurt.


    So a new exhaust will probably have to make its way on to the car, just hoping someone can chime in with a reading on the Arvinode set up so I can decide which way to go <img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

    So my car is too loud. At least my local DMV Inspector thinks so.<img src=images/icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle> Must be said the car currently has 4in1's, straight pipes, glasspacks and no silencers. Still, same exhaust as last time I passed the same inspection couple years ago, no holes, no changes made to the engine...


    Same testing procedure, different guy, different machine, different rev counter, can't argue with these people anyway, end result is I need to make it quieter.




    Looks like my options are as follows :


    1. a new stock exhaust


    2. Arvinode


    3. stick some scratch pads or metallic wool of some sort in existing exhaust...(not recommended)




    I have seen Dave's (round2k) fantastic video dozens of times and although incorrect for my car, I love the sound of the Arvinode. So I am wondering if that would pass the test here.<img src=images/icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle>


    The way they test here is as follows :


    Stand on the driver side of the car, 7m (about 21 ft) away and facing the car door, and measure sound at 4500rpm. I need to be under or at 77dB at most.




    This is where you lovely people come into play <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> : Would one of you chaps who has Arvinode installed and who can get his hands on a sonometer run this test for me and tell me just how loud Arvinode exhaust really is ?




    Thanks in advance

    This car belongs to forum member h2i8p9o and has previously been discussed here and here


    As the VIN is published on the Ebay ad, I'll post it here to make future searching easier : 5F08K652234 <img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>




    Edited by - Belmont on 06/24/2011 02:41:04

    If you actually are looking to sell the car, I would think a post in the for sale section with a brief description and maybe a couple pics would give you a lot more exposure and a much better chance of finding an interested buyer. Just my 2 pennies worth <img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>The following are some basic stats about the totals of cars <b>listed in the registry</b> <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    The total for 64.5-65 is 7273

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>many deviations from original on the body <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    [Blocked Image: http://i56.tinypic.com/rwnads.jpg]

    Offered at<b>$21,500</b> by seller oldtimeclassics.com




    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>1964 Mustang K Code Convertible


    Tony Gregory there were only 26 1964.5 K-code convertibles made and a total of 98 1964.5 K-codes with no fastbacks produced only coupes and convertibles.((((( 1 of 26 Made )))))


    1964 Mustang Convertible K code 289 HIPO....


    This car was in the same family since 1968 until 2011 when I bought the car. The Above picture was taken in 1972 at a local car show.


    The car is an original Wimbledon White over black interior K code 4 speed car.The owner did not like the white so in 1970 he painted the blue & added a red interior. Also when he did that he changed the transmission to an automatic so the whole family could drive the car.


    Original Door tag matching the Vin stamp on drivers fender apron.This is a very very rare car.


    This car should be restored but you can drive it well you work on it.


    $21,500


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    http://www.oldtimeclassics.com/cardetail_32_htm.htm




    [Blocked Image: http://i37.tinypic.com/23veryp.jpg]




    [Blocked Image: http://i38.tinypic.com/4v2s06.jpg]




    http://www.oldtimeclassics.com/cardetail_32_htm.htm

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> All right car is a 66 GT coupe San jose built serial 6F07K247603<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    6<b>F</b>07K247603 is not San Jose is it ?

    Russo and Steele Auction Lot S770 scheduled for Saturday around 10.30 pm




    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>This was a complete rotisserie restoration of a one-of-one original Ford T-5 (Mustang) K code with the original FORD components made exclusively for export to Germany. Ford was unable to use the name "Mustang" in Germany due to trademark rights for the name by 2 companies: Krupps, who manufactured large trucks, and Kriedler, who manufactured small motorcycles. Ford chose to call these export cars T-5s, the initial project name of the Mustang.




    Documentation includes the original build sheet and Buck Tag still attached to the fender that confirms DSO of 95(export only). Of the 1.7 million Mustangs Ford produced up to 1967, less than 1% of them had the "K Code" or "HiPo 289" option. This T-5 has the original numbers-matching "K" coded 289/271hp engine (the same engine used in 65-67 Shelby Mustangs), the original numbers matching 4 speed Top Loader transmission and the original correctly-dated Ford 9" 3:50:1 rear end. The original HiPo heads with 19/20 markings, HiPo Harmonic Balancer, Autolite dual points distributor, 8K rally pac and "SC" fan and the original four barrel intake manifold and original HiPo carburetor. Carroll Shelby of Shelby Mustang fame used many of the T-5s export features to stiffen his chassis. The famous "Export Brace" and stiffened suspension parts that were standard on Export cars, due to poor road conditions in Europe, were used on Shelby Mustangs.




    Approximately 600 T-5s were built in 1966, all of which were built in the Metuchen, NJ plant and delivered through the AAFES to Germany. All T-5s had miles/hour speedometers but also had a kilometers/hour speedometer in a Ford box in the trunk so it could be changed if the car stayed in Europe. The original KPH speedometer is still in the Ford box in the trunk of this car. There are approximately 188 of the 1965-1967 T-5s that are known to exist today in the T-5 International Registry. Of that number, only 9 are confirmed "T-5 K Codes". This car is the last-known K code T-5 K code built and is the ONLY Black K code T-5 ever to be manufactured. Much like the Shelby Mustang, the T-5 Mustang with the K code option is a VERY RARE and extremely unique part of early Mustang history.




    The T-5 Registry was started in 1977 and has been keeping track of these cars ever since. This T-5 has been in the registry since 1981 and a list of all owners since 1981 will be given to the new owner. This car was featured in Mustang Monthly Magazine in March of 2009 and is featured on their website. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    link




    Previous threads


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpm…8&SearchTerms=6T07K279247


    http://www.hipomustang.com/hpm…3&SearchTerms=6T07K279247