Posts by toolbox

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    The stainless steel calipipers are a direct replacement for the 4 piston orginals.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I've had hit or miss luck with "direct replacement" parts over the years.

    I agree with Lyle that the blobs on the firewall are probably seam sealer from the factory. Both of my cars have the blobs (they look to have dripped through the bolt/alignment holes.)I'd leave them or try to replicate them. I think the sloppy workmanship on these cars is part of their charm.

    You can also try warming the balancer up in some boiling water for 20 minutes or so to get a little bit of thermal expansion. It should slide on pretty easy that way. Just wear oven mits or something to protect your hands from burns. Works every time.

    You may want to change the fluid. If it has a heavy viscosity in there now, say 85W140, that might be the cause of the problem (especially in cool weather.) I've had the same problem myself and switching to a lower viscosity like 75W90 helped quite a bit. I think the lower viscosity allows the syncros to mesh more easily.

    The original system was welded together, so you will have enough clamps if you choose to go the welded route. If you prefer to just clamp the system together then yes, you'll need more clamps.

    Thanks!


    Another question-


    The original floors are flat, with a small raised square over where the spring shackle mount is. The repro floors have a small ridge formed around where the bumper bracket goes, and three "lima bean" shaped stampings just forward of the spare tire mount. What are those for? A place to put the jack on later models?

    I'm probably going to try to shrink them and hammer them flat to match the original better.

    I'm replacing the rear frame rails/trunk floors right now and will need to transfer the tire hold down to the new trunk floor. My kar is a January '65 Dearborn coupe and has the early style carriage bolt hold down.


    Could anyone post a picture of how this hold down should look? Right now, the bracket looks slightly 'deformed', maybe from someone overtightening the bolt...or maybe it's supposed to look that way, I don't know. Before I hammer it flat I'd like to compare it to a picture of a good original.


    Thanks

    Look closely at the picture of the rear end. The floorpan rebound plate for the snubber looks like it's for a single exhaust car. I think I even see the rubber bumper bolted to it.

    I'd be interested.


    Something like that would be great. By combining a repro lower steel wedge piece with the more readily available Fairlane uppers, you could end up with a pretty close approximation of the hipo Mustang mount.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Sold again with a Buy-it-now of $1,400.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    That's less than motor mounts sometimes sell for.


    This "car" is basically just a bunch of parts, but it does have all 4 original arvinode hangers on it. That's kinda neat.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>What is a "factory tramp rod"?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    A small metal rod used to stir up vegemite.


    Or maybe it's Australian for "traction bars"<img src=images/icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>