This topic has been discussed here before. The link is below.
-Fred-
Don't buy the cheap one. If NPD is out of stock try Virginia Mustang...
The repro coil is missing a letter located between the two screw terminals on the top. I think it's a mold identifier. There is no part number stamped on the metal body either. When a decal is used, it looks like a decal, not a stamp. That's the difference between original and the expensive repro coils. I can't give any info on the cheap one.
Jim
I bought a used (restored) original from J.D. Larson.
The one with a button and it has a 5DBC date code
which fits my car perfectly.
Beautiful and works like a charm but pricy, $195.
/Bo
I just spoke with NPD again about the coils:he said that the "cheaper$$" coils were just that and that I should really wait until they get re-stocked on the better one.
He also suggested that I buy Pertronix coil, paint the top yellow, and add the proper decal and have a much better trouble free coil....anyone done this?? what color yellow is the closest match to the original??
so they are saying " we know these are junk but what the hell, we sell them anyway"???
Also be wary of the new "improved" yellow tops. Although they do look like originals, with the exception of missing the code between the terminals, they appear to have heat related issues. I installed one on my car and it lasted about 20 miles before going bad. They are still made in China.
Buy a good replacement coil of your choice & paint the top yellow.
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If you plan to attend a MCA event you can swap out the coil to an original coil(working or not)on the show field.
These damn Chineese.....I see in the paper that they clammer for LARGE GAS GUZZLING SUVs!!!! they must be able to buy them AND pay for the gas from the sale of the inferior reproduction parts that we routenly buy from them.
Take a pill. The Chinese make them but somebody over on your side designed them.
Your tone is very close to being inflamatory.
This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the side terminals of the coil. Do this with all of the wires to the coil disconnected. You should see 0.75 to 0.81 ohm of resistance. Then check the resistance between either side terminal and the center high tension terminal. The reading should be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. Any significant deviation from these numbers would indicate that the coil is defective.
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These damn Chineese.....I see in the paper that they clammer for LARGE GAS GUZZLING SUVs!!!! they must be able to buy them AND pay for the gas from the sale of the inferior reproduction parts that we routenly buy from them.
Take a pill. The Chinese make them but somebody over on your side designed them.
Your tone is very close to being inflamatory.
as with alot of things 'our side' designed, they steal it, use crap components to build it, and sell it back to us as our leaders are too stupid (or paid off) to see it happening. thats how I got a tail light lens that said MOFOCO.
Let's stick to the cars and save the politics for some other forum.
If you have an original yellow top coil, the only thing that should need painting will be the black coil body.
-Fred-
This testing procedure is valid for most automotive coils....
I have read and heard from several auto electric people that the procedure described by Tom above is not reliable for testing coils. In fact, they have said there is no reliable bench test. I have personally had a coil that was dead and still passed those tests.
Can anyone comment on this? Auto electric stuff makes my head spin.
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