Posts by 289kford

    I’m running 15” Magnum 500 wheels with 205/65 Firehawk tires. They measure at 25.5 tall compared to the 25.3 (if the internet is correct) of the 6.95x14 I think were OE. Wider tire and I liked the look of less sidewall. It seems that there are more options with 15” tires. I did consider 225/60 for the rear just for the ‘look’ but in the end went 1 size because it was difficult to find a tire I liked at a price I liked available in both sizes.

    There are 15” Styled Steel available.

    1965 FORD MUSTANG - Tom's Used Cars
    This 1965 Ford Mustang K-code fastback is a highly unique and historically significant vehicle with a special history and factory customizations. Here are the…
    tomsusedcarsales.com

    Besides the VIN listed is wrong…….Friend of mine is looking at it, don’t know how serious he is. I did a vin search here, it didn’t come up.

    Owned by the fastback designer?

    This Mustang K-code fastback was special-ordered by Thomas Land, the senior designer at Ford responsible for the fastback body style.

    The car received a special gray paint color known as Metallic Grey Mist, which was originally offered for the Lincoln Continental.

    Land designed a unique grille for the car, which was fabricated by Ford Design Center shops.

    Custom features include Fairlane door handles, wood trim accents, and finned Cobra valve covers.

    The car was special-ordered through North Brothers G.C. of Garden City, Michigan.

    Exterior and Interior:

    The exterior has been refinished in its original Metallic Grey Mist color, showcasing the unique paint choice.

    The interior features a black Deluxe-style interior with woodgrain-trimmed Fairlane door handles and wood accents.

    The original bucket seats and folding rear bench provide a comfortable and classic cabin atmosphere.

    An AM radio is mounted in the center of the dashboard.

    Performance and Powertrain:

    Powered by a high-performance 289ci V8 engine with a four-barrel carburetor.

    The K-code engine was rated at 271 horsepower and 312 lb-ft of torque when new.

    Unique features include finned-aluminum Cobra valve covers and a manually operated choke.

    The engine has undergone service and maintenance, including rebuilding the carburetor, adjusting valves, and replacing various components.

    Transmission and Undercarriage:

    Equipped with a four-speed manual transmission for an engaging driving experience.

    The front axle features red multi-piston brake calipers, which have been rebuilt along with brake pads, shoes, and lines.

    The suspension and undercarriage have been maintained and serviced as needed.

    Documentation:

    The car comes with a letter from T.L. Land dated March 18, 1981, indicating that he ordered the car with specific equipment and color.

    The original owner’s manual, tools, and documentation add to the vehicle’s historical significance.

    Unique Features:

    This Mustang’s history and unique features, such as the special paint color, custom grille, and factory customizations, make it a standout and sought-after collectible.

    In summary, this 1965 Ford Mustang K-code fastback is not only a high-performance classic but also a piece of automotive history due to its special order by the senior designer responsible for the fastback body style. The unique features, color, and documentation make this Mustang a highly desirable collector’s item for enthusiasts and collectors alike.

    Question….. if the hole is lower wouldn’t it also change the leverage point and make it easier to apply the brakes since the Kars do not have power brakes? I don’t know if the disc brakes are harder to apply of not. Never drove a non-power disc brake car. Moot point if the power brake cars also had the lower hole.. A lot of engineering with master cylinder size and stroke to move the fluid in those calipers properly.

    Would it matter if he is also swapping to a dual master?

    Here’s an idea from another forum

    Hi all I got it open. Turns out on the fast back if you fold down the seat you can take off a panel held by 4 screws that acts as the latch for the trap door. Take out the panel and the trap door opens. Easy!

    Easiest way to enter 65 FB Trunk without a Key?
    The dealership didnt have the trunk key and we BELIEVE that inside is an original Cobra aluminum intake, some kelsey-hayes torque thrusts, an overhead console…
    www.vintage-mustang.com

    You may want to pull the plugs and look for a cracked one.. you could also use a spray bottle and squirt the wires.. do it at night, you may see or hear some arcing.

    Be sure you don’t have wires for 7 and 8 running next to each other.. try to separate them as best possible to prevent cross firing.

    Probably want to stay with paint as I’m likely to want to back to black in a couple years. I have a store nearby (TP Tools) that does a lot of automotive restoration stuff and they have VHT flat aluminum paint.

    I’m thinking if I do this, maybe the VHT or Eastwood Aluma Blast is what I’m looking for. As stated earlier, I seem to recall the natural finish is very rough probably because they were going to be painted with the wrinkle paint.

    I don’t have access to blasting stuff now a days. When I put on my intake years back, I had it blasted and cleared it. I’m running a Muscle Parts ‘Ford’ lettered intake.

    I alternate between the chrome valve covers and a set of the black wrinkle finish closed letter Cobra covers I bought back around 1980. I’d like to refinish them in a color that resembles the 65 open letter covers. Looking at online pictures I’m wondering if I need some sort of gray or maybe flat or dull aluminum. Is there a better choice?

    I’ve repainted the black a couple times, if I remember, the natural finish is not what I’m looking for and it is not very smooth, probably why they use wrinkle paint.

    When I googled the Vin a few days ago l came across pictures where the car was white. I thought it was some kind of error with the pictures loading or it was a picture editing thing. I don’t know the site they were on. I think it looks better white.

    I did leave it off but the weather is not cooperating to hook up the battery and take the car out. I considered maybe it was a factory ground moved, but why remove the eyelet? For that matter why didn’t they add an eyelet if it was an added ground? If I get ambitious I’ll pull the cluster. My first thought was maybe it was (moved) factory wiring but I just didn’t see it the pictures. Thought possibly someone would recognize “yes there’s one back there but it should be….”

    The car does have a rally pac, it’s a low profile though that I thought was 1966. If it was added by the 1st owner maybe it’s a ground for that. I talked to the second owner, it was in there when he bought it.

    I put the missing clutch assist spring isolators on the other night. When I took the screws out for the vent cable I found a bare ground wire wrapped around the one of the screws. Now I’ve owned this car for 45 years. For the life of me I don’t remember ever adding it. Obviously I never had to take anything apart before to see it.

    I looked at some wiring schematic and pictures on line, I don’t see a ground it might be. I tried to follow it, just goes up behind the cluster.. next step would be remove the cluster.. any ideas where this is supposed to be or what this may be for?