Posts by 289kford

    When I googled the Vin a few days ago l came across pictures where the car was white. I thought it was some kind of error with the pictures loading or it was a picture editing thing. I don’t know the site they were on. I think it looks better white.

    I did leave it off but the weather is not cooperating to hook up the battery and take the car out. I considered maybe it was a factory ground moved, but why remove the eyelet? For that matter why didn’t they add an eyelet if it was an added ground? If I get ambitious I’ll pull the cluster. My first thought was maybe it was (moved) factory wiring but I just didn’t see it the pictures. Thought possibly someone would recognize “yes there’s one back there but it should be….”

    The car does have a rally pac, it’s a low profile though that I thought was 1966. If it was added by the 1st owner maybe it’s a ground for that. I talked to the second owner, it was in there when he bought it.

    I put the missing clutch assist spring isolators on the other night. When I took the screws out for the vent cable I found a bare ground wire wrapped around the one of the screws. Now I’ve owned this car for 45 years. For the life of me I don’t remember ever adding it. Obviously I never had to take anything apart before to see it.

    I looked at some wiring schematic and pictures on line, I don’t see a ground it might be. I tried to follow it, just goes up behind the cluster.. next step would be remove the cluster.. any ideas where this is supposed to be or what this may be for?

    K engines are 12 btdc initial somewhere around 700 rpm. A K code should not have a vacuum advance. Maybe California cars did? Is your distributor a dual point? Normally a car with vacuum advance is set without the hose attached.

    I am the furthest thing from an expert you can get so take this as such. I wasn’t aware of a fastback at the fair. I thought the fastback didn’t come out till August of 64, like a true 65 model, not the 64 1/2 as the early versions are called. GT mustangs were introduced in April 65. I don’t know exactly when production began for either. Obviously cars were built prior to being for sale. This is a picture from Ford archive. Is it showing a fastback at the 64 world fair? If you make it bigger, it looks like a GT emblem on the side and the GT stripe. If it is a GT, it’s a year early. How long was the fair? Did they rotate cars in and out?

    In the article with this picture it mentions Mustang birthday so I think they recreated the moment and used this car?

    Some other info. https://www.motortrend.com/fea…fair-production-mustangs/

    The dealer mentioned in this article is still in business and not far from where I live. They have a car show every summer.

    If you have access to a mechanical gauge you could try that. Years and years ago I was lucky to have a friend with a Stewart Warner setup I used for a while to get a reference for the factory gauge.

    I removed a Holley from mine and bought a 1.12 hipo carb from Pony Carb somewhere around 2000. Works great, worked even better when I had 4.11 gears. A few years ago I got tired of the higher RPM and put in the stock 3.50 ratio. With the slower RPM build, it seems to take forever for the secondaries to open, at least till I can feel it, seems like about 3000-3500. Should/could it be a little earlier? I’ve read that Holley springs work, but I don’t know if Ford used different springs, only 1 spring, or what Holley spring would be the next step lighter. Also don’t know if PC modified the carb in any way.

    I thought about the mechanical kit but really would prefer vacuum.

    Stock engine except C90X intake.

    1st thing to come to mind is compare old and new idler arms and the center link for shape, bends, etc.

    did you do the work or someone else? Could it be upside down or wrong application?

    When that horn was blowing, I envisioned having to sort through 30 wires that were either mouse chewed, shorted/melted or generally corroded.

    Talk about the glass half full.

    Well that was easy... as soon I pulled the cap, I found 2 of the 3 bolts that hold the contact ring were less than finger tight. they are shoulder bolts and don’t clamp down on the ring so I really don’t know how it’s supposed to operate, but I tightened them, put the cap back on and it works as designed in the garage. I did verify the problem in the garage prior to taking anything apart. I suppose uneven pressure on the ring was the culprit.

    Sigh... came back from a show yesterday evening and when I was backing in the garage, the horn decided it wanted to blow when I turned the wheel. I’m hoping the problem is right under the cap, the turn signals work fine. It is not an OE wheel, it was replaced before I got the car in the 70’s. Looks like a Grant wood wheel.

    I won’t get a look at it till later in the week.

    You can go to Tirerack, pick a tire and compare all the specs for any given sizes, such as height, width, and suggested rim widths.

    Since last year, on my fastback,

    I’m running 205/65R15 Firehawks on Magnum 500’s, perfect in the wheel wells, I think. Just a tad taller and narrower than the 215/60R15 BFG’s I was running for years.

    If you are considering new wheels, think about 15’s. They make a Styled steel in 15..