Vapor Locking ???

<font face='Comic Sans MS'>In my experience, dark brown crud is typically caused over time by really old stinky gas. Your hard fuel line may be comtaminated or rusted to some degree and as fuel travels to the pump, that amber crud is washed off the inside of the fuel line.

You may want to blow out the hard line, and pop the top on the carb to see what is laying in wait in the fuel bowls. Might also be a good move to drain the fuel tank and see what is resident, as well as remove the tank sending unit to see if that filter is contaminated as well. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>

[Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

we just replaced my son's brand new fuel pump!

had less than 100 miles on it.

car would run fine for about 5 minutes

than would 'dog' out.

checked lines = ok

installed new fuel pump = runs great!!

iowa

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

"................... Today I pulled the fuel filter and it had some sediment in it but not too terribly bad. However there was a fairly good amount of sediment in the bottom of the canister (maby a half a teaspoon) and it was mostly a dark brown power sith something mixed in that appeared to be brass shavings - not a lot but there none the less. Has anyone else experienced this and what did you do to fix it? Is what I describe from the dirty fuel filter or is it vapor locking?

Thanks

Jack

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

you have really answered your own question. ANY debris such as you describe indicate your ENTIRE fuel system is on need of examination and likely replacement. The most likely place to start is the fuel tank. Drain it and stick a mirror (on a telescoping rod) up into the tank from the sending unit hole. Even tanks that are fairly new can be rusty. I've seen brand new Mustang tanks that were covered with powdery rust inside.

If rust is found, don't waste your time trying to seal it. Buy a new tank, and new fuel lines.

Z.

There is a major, major problem with gas at the local pump. I recently had a carb that had not run on the engine since last fall. The rebuilder said the residue was so profoundly prevalent that it took a week soaking and extreme effort to remove jets. Conclusion; the gas may not last a couple of months. For storage then, run the carb dry, and drain tank or, possibly, use PRI-G, a stabilizer. I discovered a local wholesaler that sells ethanol-free gasoline retail for a few cents more a gallon, and I will be using it in my Mustangs. regular use of the daily driver can live with the pump gas. Anyone else have a similar experience?<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

I don't take any chances with the ethinol gas...I always use the 2 year dose of Sta-Bil with all gas I put into my car-I believe that my recently rebuilt/restored fuel pump and 4100 carb were done with materials that will be ok with this crap gasoline we are forced to use today.

Something else you might want to consider is the addition of a spring in your lower radiator hose....these cars originally had them and the repro hoses don't come with them but the springs are available separatly now, I had a simmiliar problem like you described and my engine was running a bit warm, I added the spring and all is well now.

Do you know who sells the spring by chance?

Thanks in advance,

Damon

Try National Parts Depot http://www.npdlink.com/ p/n 8A286-1A $4.25.

Jim

I got mine from Brant and company at VA Mustang-they have both stainless and plain steel-I would highly recommend stainless for obvious reasons.