Posts by zray

    Looking forward to hearing the results. Chock is notorious for raising the dead (steering boxes that is). Just a restored box and renewed A arms can transform your driving experience. Throw in a Shelby UCA drop and some decent tires (think Avon CR6ZZ’s) and you’ll be completely amazed.

    She’s OK now, thank you for asking


    Merry Christmas everyone, and hoping the best for us all in 2021.

    Stay vigilant ! My daughter is a medical professional & despite taking all the precautions, she came down with the covid-19 . My Dr did as well, and he had a rough time of it. We can’t be too safe !!!


    Regarding your intention on getting a Centerforce Dual friction. Clutch,

    I’ve put that clutch in a few ‘66 GT350’s that also had a vintage Paxton supercharger installed. With the nearly 400 horsepower via the Paxton I thought the dual friction was needed. However I never liked the heavy pedal, and on nothing more than a whim I experimentally removed it on one car while I had the transmission out anyway, so no real extra work, and installed the Centerforce One. WOW, what a pleasant eye opener. The pedal was very easy to operate, and thanks to the basic Centerforce design, in which the higher the rpm, the more holding power the clutch has. It held perfectly, and that’s in a car that saw daily excursions to 6,000 rpm and numerous high speed endurance runs lasting over an hour at continuous top speed.

    Unless you are planning major engine modifications that will Increase the power well over 400 horsepower, then save your money and install the more reasonably priced Centerforce One. You’ll save well over $200 vs. the dual friction model, and have a car that’s much more Fun to drive.


    I always add the reinforcement plate on cars that are missing one . On my ‘65 K code shown in the photo below, I installed the export brace (with the evenly spaced holes) and the plate as well. The difference in chassis stability makes that period correct modification an easy decision.

    Several times I’ve removed an export brace that appeared to be on tight only to find the cowl lip holes have been oval-ed out due to the reinforcement plate missing.

    Every ‘66 Shelby I’ve owned had had both the export brace and the reinforcement plate. The plates are welded in place, which is the only correct way to have it installed. if one is lacking a welder, it only takes 10 minutes at a welding shop to get it done. They will do a good job of protecting the surrounding paint with welding blankets.


    PS. the Mobil 1 15w-50 and the Mobil 1 0w-40 both have enough zddp (zinc / phosphorus) to be 100% compatible with the flat tappet HiPo engine. I’ve used both for 2 + decades , mainly the 15w-50, in numerous vintage engines that saw the full spectrum of usage, from garage queens to vintage racers (289 HiPo based) . Either oil will give you superb wear protection. WalMart usually has these formulations for about $25 for a 5 quart jug.

    I started using the 0w-40 when I moved from Texas back to my hometown in NE Oklahoma where there are 4 distinct seasons. It has performed as expected, year round.

    It’s 100% likely.

    I haven’t noticed anyone by that name in the world other than the old man on the mirror.

    Thanks for making the connection !

    Can the accounts be merged without the user names being the same ? I prefer to have the new account user name : zray


    From the engine bay photo it appears that some one has added power brakes. Do you have front drum brakes , or discs ? the majority of HiPo cars had superb manual front discs, however some had manual drums all the way around

    The fuel line looks non standard, so you are likely missing the valuable HiPo carburetor.

    Have you had a chance to drive the car much yet ? The best way to find out what you have is take trips of ever increasing distances.

    Have fun, budget for time to talk to everyone who you meet who want to tell you how they owned one “just like it”.

    I would advise chamfering the bosses vs using guide plates.

    I have used guide plates with genuine HiPo heads a couple of times and everything worked well.

    However, most of the time, the pushrod guides cast in the head won’t permit the use of bolt on guide plates; resulting in binding pushrods at either the guide plates or the stock cast in holes, or both. To fix this you have to enlarge the guide plate slots which defeats their purpose, or drill out the slots in the head and make them round holes.

    I for one am unwilling to butcher a set of working HiPo heads in this way.

    I have had to deal with a HiPo head that had a small crack in the boss area. It was small but still was enough so the head would not hold coolant area pressure at the crack. Some red lock-tire on the rocker stud was all it took to seal up micro crack.


    I’ve been putting Mobil 1 15w-50 in all of my vintage cars for at least 20 years. That includes all of the Shelby GT-350 I’ve owned. They have engines based on and nearly identical to the Mustang K code K code. Never had a single oil related failure in over 200,000 cumulative miles.


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    Is there an upload button for adding the pics of my parts here for all to look at?

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    you have to upload your photos to a hosting site like

    once they are there you can post a link here.


    the thing is, there is no list anywhere of all K code serial numbers. So you don't need to have a legit K code serial number off of engine to "make" your own K code. You just can make up any number you please and there's no one to say that it's not a valid number. Of course it would have to follow the recognized serial number format.


    I don't see the down side to posting the VIN on an engine which is for sale.

    If the engine was from a Shelby, without the Shelby VIN also being published, there would be no way for someone to "construct" a Shelby Mustang only knowing the Ford VIN.

    If the engine was not from a Shelby Mustang, then what is the reasoning for withholding the VIN in a for sale ad? Faking a K code is going to require a lot more than just a K code engine. The expense in attempting to do so would probably exceed the cost of a legitimate K code.

    What am I missing here (I know I need more coffee).


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 07/24/2011 11:15:45

    empty gas tank vs. full gas tank ?

    if rust was not an issue, ie, if humidity can be greatly reduced, then I would opt for the empty gas tank. But under typical circumstances I would just add a can of stabile to a full gas tank and be done with it. Even with E-10 gas this approach has worked well for gas that sits all winter. I don't think it's necessary to toss (drain out) a tankful of treated gas once winter is over. Just drive it thru the system as soon as you can.


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    "............... but wonder about the shoet sections of rubber hose at the tank and at the front.

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    you can get "fuel injection rated" rubber hose at NAPA and other quality auto parts stores. It is more than up to the task of standing up to modern fuels.