Posts by 65Rangoon_old

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Ran into the same issue on the F/B about 6 yrs back. My fix was to make another bracket, but I shortened the height a little something north of 1/8" and concaved the lower flange to better comply to the tunnels' shape. Still a bear to get the console in (and out I might add), but doable. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>






    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Well I'm certainly a long way from being an expert on VIN stampings, but that tranny product looks creepy to me. The stamping pad looks as if it was worked over by a grinder/file or whatever. The 'K' appears to have been the product of three individual wacks of whatever imprinted that first diget of the VIN. All in all I see nothing genuine about it.




    I suppose it could be that the transmission case had to be replaced, and that was someones misguided effort to link it back to the cars' VIN.




    But if all other VIN's seem in order, I don't think it's a show stopper to go ahead with the purchase. I do believe the current owner should be quizzed about it and perhaps it may serve as a purchase price bargining point.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>








    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    Hi Charlie


    How right you are ! Funnily enough, I also served in the Air Force (the French one) and had a Master Sgt who was a right PITA as well.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>That tickled me. I reckon Msgt's are Msgt's, no matter what air force they belong to.




    I got around my PITA problem with some well placed steel wool shoved up the '52 Fords exhaust pipes. I had visions of the stuff being blown out as I blipped the throttle a couple of times to satisfy Sgt Butt Breath, that the car was now quiet enough to qualify for a base sticker. But it held in place thank goodness. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Hmmmm. That inspector sounds much like a grizzled old Air Force Master Sargeant I had dealings with as a young Airman many, many moons ago. He 'thought' my 52 Ford had too loud an exhaust note and denied me a base entry sticker until corrected. Of course there were no decible standards, but he was the Msgt and I was the two stripper. No mystery as to who prevailed.




    I would think another option you might have is to research what loudness noise code your area has, if any. If one is expressed, surley an inspector would be obliged to test your car for compliance as apposed to a WAG of 'I think it's to loud' decision. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>






    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]




    Edited by - 65Rangoon on 07/05/2011 09:37:21

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Several things I'd check: Ignition timing & idle RPM set properly. With a vacuum gauge and engine at normal operating temp, optimize both needle valve adjustments for best idle and max idle vacuum.




    Verify spark plugs are the correct heat range, float levels are correct, and that the primary and secondary main jets are the correct size. Also, the power valve can be faulty (even loose) or the wrong vacuum operating range, causing excessive fuel to be dumped into the engine.




    Last but not least, I'd ohm check the plug wires to ensure they aren't part of the problem.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>In my experience, dark brown crud is typically caused over time by really old stinky gas. Your hard fuel line may be comtaminated or rusted to some degree and as fuel travels to the pump, that amber crud is washed off the inside of the fuel line.




    You may want to blow out the hard line, and pop the top on the carb to see what is laying in wait in the fuel bowls. Might also be a good move to drain the fuel tank and see what is resident, as well as remove the tank sending unit to see if that filter is contaminated as well. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>






    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>As those holes and their threaded inserts are very well protected from water intrusion by being buried inside the frame rail and then the bracket acting as a cover for all of it, I doubt you will exprience any problem.




    All bets are off however for any car that spent its life in the north east quadrant of the US. I believe plastic even rusts in that locale!</font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I noticed in my Ford Parts Interchange Book, that the HEH-S, HEH-T, AND HEH-BX transmissions are applicable to the 65-67 Mustang & 67 Cougar Hip cars. Most conversations seem to center around the HEH-BX item. Are the other two also correct, but just not as common as the dash BX? </font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]




    Edited by - 65Rangoon on 04/15/2011 11:46:30




    Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 04/16/2011 22:16:42

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>The VIN on my tranny is stamped on the bottom of the main case's rear flange that the tail shaft housing bolts to. Not original to my car, it was sourced from a '65 San Jose (Milpitas) hipo coupe.




    Don't know if the various production plants defined their own unique location, or just whatever surface happened to be facing up when it was time for the VIN to be punched in.


    </font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Yep, very bad and dangerous idea!




    No action should be undertaken via a restamp approach as it can't help but compromise the credibility of individual cars no matter how well intentioned.




    If one wants to bring component date codes in line with a car production date, then seek out original unmolested parts and swap out the chunks that don't fit the accepted production time lines from back in the day. Alternatively, live with what you've got.




    Once a restamp Pandora's Box is opened and accepted as credible, everything becomes suspect. Having said that, one cannot be naive in thinking it doesn't already happen at some level and freqency. Sad but probably true. My 2c.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>






    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    They are my favorite stage honestly. It's the potential that's there.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I fully understand the 'potential' approach. It was that, and the individual battles won during the course of the 7 year resto process that kept my 'K' on track to completion. Same approach with the '69 mach 1 'M' code I'm currently chipping away at. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>




    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]