My Fuel Mixture is Too Rich

  • I wonder if one of you guys could give me some advise: lot's of black soot on tail pipes. The choke opens all the way when closed. Should I reduce the fuel mixture? Which adjustment is that? Thanks guys.


    Bill G.

    • Official Post

    Bill, Did this happen recently or has it always been this way?


    -Fred-

    65 Koupe early San Jose Phoenician Yellow 4 speed
    66 GT Koupe Dearborn Blue 4 speed
    66 KGT San Jose fastback pony interior Silver Frost 4 speed
    64 Falcon sedan delivery 289 4 speed
    65 Ranchero 289 4 speed
    66 Corvette roadster 427/425 4 speed

  • <font face='Comic Sans MS'>Several things I'd check: Ignition timing & idle RPM set properly. With a vacuum gauge and engine at normal operating temp, optimize both needle valve adjustments for best idle and max idle vacuum.


    Verify spark plugs are the correct heat range, float levels are correct, and that the primary and secondary main jets are the correct size. Also, the power valve can be faulty (even loose) or the wrong vacuum operating range, causing excessive fuel to be dumped into the engine.


    Last but not least, I'd ohm check the plug wires to ensure they aren't part of the problem.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Bill, Did this happen recently or has it always been this way?


    -Fred-


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    exactly what I was wondering.


    If this has always been that way, then re-jetting might be in order. But if the issue is recent, then there is usually an underlying problem. Could be as simple as a plugged up air filter.


    Z.

  • Since leaded fuel has disappeared it is no longer possible to get nice grey tailpipes after a run. They are always black now.

    But as said, a tune up can only help.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Since leaded fuel has disappeared it is no longer possible to get nice grey tailpipes after a run. They are always black now....."

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I think it also has something to do with the grade of gasoline. My daily driver (SVT Focus) runs on premium gas and has always had a black tailpipe. So does my '66 which of course is also using premium gas. My partners Focus runs on regular gas and the tailpipe on her car is new looking and without any residue.


    btw, do your eyes burn from an excess gassy smell? Thats a sure sign the engine is running rich


    Z.


    Edited by - zrayrichter on 06/06/2011 20:26:41

  • Hey guys - thanks for the comments. Some feed back from me:


    The black pipes have existed for couple of years.


    I use Sunoco 93 octain gas.


    Carb rebuilt / restored by Pony Carbs 3 yrs ago.


    Kar otherwise runs like a raped ape. Starts immediately and does not die out. Thanks, guys.


    Bill G.

  • Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    yes

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).

    Jim

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).


    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    may be possible with the autolite, but not so likely with a bigger Holley (715). Even with the smaller autolite, I'd surprised if many people who drive their car year-round can get an idle speed under 700 without fiddling with it every time the air temp goes up or down 10 degrees.


    Still see nothing wrong with an 900 rpm idle.


    Z.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Oh yes, one more thing. After the kar is relatively warm, it idles around 600 - 700 RPM with choke all the way in. After it is real warm and toasty, idles at 900 RPM with choke all the way in.


    Sound normal?


    Thanks.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    An idle rpm of 900 as normal? Hell no! Try to get an idle speed of 550-650 rpm (the "book" says 750 rpm but I say try for lower).

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Would have any worry about getting enough oil to the lifters with such a low idle? I think you might be safer up around 900.

  • My 65 Shelby with the big 715 cfm Holley 3259 and original engine

    with stock HiPo cam idles fine at 750rpm. Produces 16 inches of mercury vacum at that idle.

    /Bo

  • Note I stated "try". I got mine down by "tinkering" because I wanted to. It is a goal, primarily to keep any advance from the distributor at zero. I do this on my "A" code Mustangs and on my VW Baja and sandrail.

    Jim

    Back to the original post, assuming it's an Autolite, check the power valve. They do go bad.

    J


    Edited by - jwc66k on 06/09/2011 10:40:25

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Talking to John Enyart at Pony Carburetors & he says HIPO Autolite should idle at 900 RPM.


    Bill G.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    At 900 rpm, the distributor has around 6 deg advance. That's where you start getting all of your advance at idle, which is not desirable.

    Jim

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