Iowa's 5F09K project

6hypo5conv_old · August 29, 2010 at 5:56 AM

Dave, If the 4 speed is from a small block Mustang it will bolt right in, you will need to get a speedometer cable assembly for a 4 speed car as the 3 speed will now be too short.

iowa_old · August 29, 2010 at 8:27 AM

also,

can one put the dual point distr

into a reg 289 engine?

thanks

dave

jwc66k · August 29, 2010 at 11:24 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

also,

can one put the dual point distr

into a reg 289 engine?

thanks

dave

Sure. Why?

Jim

iowa_old · August 29, 2010 at 12:04 PM

well my son's 66 needs OH'ed

so could use the hipo one while it's out

since my hipo is not yet ready for it!

d

dunc289_old · September 3, 2010 at 9:00 AM

I'd just take the stock distributor and Pertronix it!<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

iowa_old · September 4, 2010 at 5:17 PM

hello again

here is the diagram out of the '65 shop manual

i have marked two area's;

ie the front bottom of the frt inner rail

and the frt part of the rear inner rail.

Q are these level as drawn?

since my rotissorie is done

i'm about ready to to construct the jig

to rebuild the floor components

thanks

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/k_car_dim_diagram_copy.jpg]

jwc66k · September 4, 2010 at 6:34 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

i have marked two area's;

ie the front bottom of the frt inner rail and the frt part of the rear inner rail.

Q are these level as drawn?

since my rotissorie is done i'm about ready to to construct the jig

to rebuild the floor components

In a word - no. The reference dimensions are from a fixed flat surface to the points on the front (steering gear - bumper mt) and to the leaf spring mounts at the rear. Those are used to make the car track and steer properly (along with the dimensions on the other view). Your drawn in reference points may or may not be at the same height, level or parallel when those other dimensions are met.

Jim

iowa_old · September 4, 2010 at 10:06 PM

okay, thats alright

one MUST go from the the distances

from the holes to the ref. line

will do

thanks

iowa

iowa_old · September 5, 2010 at 10:28 AM

i don't seem to have the front hole

on the front frame extension

per the diagram above;

there are just spot weld marks in this area.

i'm sure this is an original piece.

could someone measure exactly where this hole is located?

iowa

[Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_09_05_frt_frame_exten.jpg]

Edited by - iowa on 09/05/2010 10:29:37

iowa_old · September 6, 2010 at 10:14 AM

hmmmmm....

no answer to my hole Q

have another Q

how does one remove and install the drip rail chrome piece?

thanks

iowa

jwc66k · September 6, 2010 at 10:32 AM

It's the front bumper bracket front holes; an ancient tool known as a "church key"; a rubber headed mallet.

Jim

iowa_old · September 6, 2010 at 3:35 PM

the front bumper bracket holes are clearly marked

and the measurement looks like it is from

the little hole in in front of and a smidge lower than them?

iowa

289route66_old · September 6, 2010 at 5:07 PM

Never seen a hole in that location. I think it's just an arrow pointing to the two bumper brace holes and the distance given indicates the distance to the two holes from the ground.

jwc66k · September 6, 2010 at 5:11 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Never seen a hole in that location. I think it's just an arrow pointing to the two bumper brace holes and the distance given indicates the distance to the two holes from the ground.

Exactly -

Jim

iowa_old · September 7, 2010 at 6:04 AM

i'll have to take your word for it

it just seems odd that the indicator line

isn't pointing at the right holesin the frame

i just want to construct the jig correctly

this is difficult to do when

the front inner rail is bent upwards out of shape

and the rear end of the rear inner rail

has been sawn out!

iowa

CSXEng_old · September 7, 2010 at 9:14 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

hmmmmm....

no answer to my hole Q

have another Q

how does one remove and install the drip rail chrome piece?

thanks

iowa

I used a can opener. More like an old bottle cap opener. The clip that would grip the bottle cap is used to pull the trim upward. You more or less role the trim off the steel. I put a piece of fabric between the opener and the chrome trim. I started from the rear by the quarter panel and work up to the roof then stop at the curve. Then I would start from the front and work my way to the rear curve where you stoped and it will pop off. Putting it back on takes care but you can do it. This time you role it back on. Hope this helps.

Dave V.

iowa_old · September 8, 2010 at 7:29 PM

thanks dave

i'll give it a try tomorrow

today i cut and have all the

little arms that are used

to hold the frame to the rotissorie

next will be to line everything up

and weld the jig tight

will be excited to see how things compare

to the shop manuals diagram measurements

dave

Edited by - iowa on 09/08/2010 19:31:04

iowa_old · September 11, 2010 at 10:10 PM

is there a good thread

that explains how to correctly

install the distributor?

thanks

iowa

iowa_old · September 19, 2010 at 9:32 AM

just a quick Q about my son's C code 3spd tranny

would a 'K' code toploader fit into his car?

thanks

iowa

Builder11_old · September 19, 2010 at 10:13 AM

Yes, is should

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