Iowa's 5F09K project

  • Am starting a new thread


    for the restoration of this car


    which i bought on 5/1/10




    it will need a complete floor and frame rails


    and maybe rockers under the doors




    what would be the correct sequence of steps


    to install these new metal pieces?


    also because the rear rails and floor are rusted thru


    how does one attach a rotisserie


    to turn the car upside down?




    thanks


    iowa

  • Iowa,




    I wouldn't turn it over until the metal repair is done - most experts use a frame under the car to keep it true.




    My Car need a full floor too - for rust and racing damage.




    Go to http://www.mustangcentralga.com and look under new projects - you'll see his work on my '65 K 2+2.




    I'm not sure there is a correct sequence, but most guys I talked to would start at the back and work forward. This is how they repaired my car - the floor was done last.




    Good luck on your project!

  • If your car is rusted that bad yes this would be a good solution - HOWEVER the axle plate will not be correct for a K code - do a search on the archive and you'll see the difference.




    I've seen this part in person - MU had one on the Georgia show room floor a month or so ago. Looked nice, but you will really need to brace up the remainder of the car to keep it true before cutting it this much. Too hard to explain here but really critical.




    You should be able to swap out the axle plate from your car or get a repop - again search the archive for the repop source.




    I hope this helps.

  • I think it varies by owner and the extent of the rust. That is how I approached my K code repair - I only replaced what was bad and kept as much original as possible.




    I only did the complete floor due to extensive rust and damage from racing (lost drive shaft due to u-joint failure) and previous owner damage in the shifter area. I did retain the origianl seat platforms with a minor lower edge repair. I am really happy with the results.




    We also put full quarter panel skins on - my body guy doesn't like big patch areas because it is too much work to get the inside of the trunk looking OK. My rust just went too far up around the wheel opening for patches. Again I am really happy with the results.

  • here is a pic of my car!


    pretty rough.


    the rear of the rear inner rails are


    rusted thru so the spring brackets


    were pushed up into the trunk area


    when we used a bobcat to offload it from the tailer!


    i'm going to put the new entire floor piece in 1st


    the one i linked to above,


    but will need to get the car aligned on jacks 1st.


    i'm thinking about getting the doors to close properly


    and then weld long pieces of angle iron across the inner


    and outer sides of the car


    (also width ways)


    to hold the car from sagging.


    then will cut out old floor


    sand blast the car and then weld in the new floor


    fortunately the rockers under the doors are in pretty


    fair shape, so they will help hold the car some


    how does this sound?


    iowa




    [Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_05_02_012_k_L_frt_view.jpg]




    Edited by - iowa on 05/06/2010 22:43:49

  • Nice project.


    Unless you are in a huge rush I would hold out for some choice sheetmetal.NOS if you can.Makes a big difference down the road.There are plenty of nice pieces out there.




    mike

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    Nice project.


    Unless you are in a huge rush, I would hold out for some choice (NOS) sheet metal...Makes a big difference down the road. There are plenty of nice pieces (still) out there.




    mike


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    Great advice!

  • Depending on what your final goal is with the car, you might also consider good original sheet metal. There are still lots of nice low-option coupes that can be used for parts, including sheet metal. Finding one built at the same assembly plant around the same time in production as your car would yield the most authentic parts.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    What about cutting the date codes out of the fenders and hood and welding them into OEM parts if the correct date codes can't be found? Is this acceptable for Iowa and others restoring k codes?


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>




    Depends on what the final goal is, but would consider that an option if one is looking to get the car as authentic/period-correct as possible.

  • i am about done tearing the car down


    and am convinced that i need an entire new floor.


    this will be from the firewall to the very rear of the car


    as i had posted above.


    i am trying to think of what braces


    i will need to weld in before i cut out the old flooring.


    the more i look at this fastback


    the more i am convinced


    that it should maintain it's shape


    without much bracing.


    so....i think i will weld in a brace from door to door post


    to maintain the width dimension,


    and than once i get the door to fit right,


    i'll weld in a brace from the frt to rear door pillars


    on both sides.


    does this seem logical?


    thanks


    iowa dave




    ps does anyone recognize the meaning on my wwii jeep bumper?




    [Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_05_10_005_nice_R_frt_n_jeep_view.jpg]

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