Iowa's 5F09K project

    i should have know you guys are pretty sharp!


    but........back to the bracing.......

    the top is intact

    the rockers below the doors are solid

    and the rear fenders are rusted

    but still will hold the rear of the car.


    i guess i need some mustang expert advice

    as to how much bracing i will need

    when the floor is out?


    i'd like to brace it,

    cut the old floor out,

    sand blast it outside on the BB court,

    put it back in the garage,

    build a frame under it

    to make sure the frame measurements all line up,

    and then weld in the new floor.


    d

    I had a full floor pan installed in my '66 c code fastback. No bracing was used and the floor and alignment turned out like new. The car was not moved around like you are planning to do for sandblasting.


    Alex

    i'll probably brace some just to make sure

    blast

    then install the floor etc.

    thanks for all your help guys.

    will order the big floor piece today

    will probably go with mustang unlimited

    iowa


    Edited by - iowa on 05/11/2010 14:31:29

    Talking of sheetmetal, how many stamping plants were there?

    I know there was Dearborn and Cleveland, were there any others ?

    Would say a Dearborn car have all its panels with a D on or would they have sourced panels from other stamping plants as well ?

    leading to a mix of letters on a particular car.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    As I mentioned previously, you could find a decent parts coupe for $5-6k. You'll be way ahead of the game if you find a solid one to get sheet metal from.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    +1

    have thot about using a solid car for parts.

    the only trouble i have with this,

    is if this parts car was that solid

    that one would be destroying another potentially

    salvagable classic car in doing this.

    is guess if a mustang was in a wreck

    and all was totalled except the floor pan

    then this would be the solution

    iowa

    As I've said all along, it's your choice. I would rather use original sheet metal from a low option car that has little value to fix a higher value K code. You could always repair the low value car with reproduction sheet metal and put it back on the road.

    i do see the logic there.

    i will consider it.

    hope n.o. gets upset

    if i due put in a new floor.

    if it were made right

    it would really help me

    in lining up things on rebuild

    iowa

    Nobody here is going to get upset, it's your car and you do whatever is in your best interest. All we can do here is help when you have questions.


    On the repro floor, you're going to find some differences between it and your original. Search old topics here and on other forums to educate yourself on what those differences are. You'll most likely learn very quick why I recommend a nice parts car.

    i'll wait so more before deciding

    will give me time to look for parts car

    and research the posts about the repro floors

    while i remove old floor in my k car

    thanks

    iowa

    yes, i learned that long ago

    and it has saved me many times.

    i know there will some special 'K'

    things i will need to save.


    i found an article on sheetmetal

    in the march issue of 'mustang monthly'

    which talks about all the new sheetmetal

    which is available now,

    but it didn't mention how close to the

    original that these were.

    iowa

    I do not know where you live but give me a call in indianola 515-314-1160 i just finished putting the floor in one last week am now putting rear quarters on have already put firewall both front frames and inner fenders , if you want to come and look your welcome to do that Larry

    Ultimately you're going to put a lot of work into the car, and the best return on your investment will come from using original sheet metal if you can get it. The idea of a donor car might seem steep at first, but it will pay off in the long run. The scrutiny these cars receive from buyers can have big impact on the resale value if it's done with repro parts vs. originals. I would agree with others who recommend you seek out a donor car if you can.

    i have available,

    a '66 six cylinder coupe.

    would this be an acceptable source

    if it has a fairly solid floor,

    or were these six's built with

    different gauge of sheetmetal?

    thanks

    iowa

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