Pulling engine and trans today

  • I want to detail my engine compartment so thought it would be best to pull the engine and trans together. I believe the rear main seal needs replacing so will do that too. While I am at it, I should go ahead and turn the fly wheel and replace the clutch. This is as bad as adding new curtains to your home! Wish me luck.

    • Official Post

    Very nice work, Dave.

    -Fred-

    65 Koupe early San Jose Phoenician Yellow 4 speed
    66 GT Koupe Dearborn Blue 4 speed
    66 KGT San Jose fastback pony interior Silver Frost 4 speed
    64 Falcon sedan delivery 289 4 speed
    65 Ranchero 289 4 speed
    66 Corvette roadster 427/425 4 speed

  • Thanks Fred. I'm not sure if the bolts are painted or natural that hold the spring cover on. I'll have to strip the black off the engine mounts cause they are to be natural. This is the color that Bob Perkins said was correct for the engine bay. PPG 9423. Cleaning every bolt and nut by hand is a pain in the ass, but that's the fun part about this hobby. As Charles said, use as many original bolts, nuts and screws as possible Enjoy!

    Dave V.

    • Official Post

    The bolts for the spring covers should not be painted.

    -Fred-

    65 Koupe early San Jose Phoenician Yellow 4 speed
    66 GT Koupe Dearborn Blue 4 speed
    66 KGT San Jose fastback pony interior Silver Frost 4 speed
    64 Falcon sedan delivery 289 4 speed
    65 Ranchero 289 4 speed
    66 Corvette roadster 427/425 4 speed

  • Dave - nice work. I hope mine turns out like that. When the part is required to be a natural finish and you media or sand the piece back to origial specs, how do you keep it from rusting? Do you use a clear coat over the top?

  • I glass bead blast all my parts and the ones that do not get painted (hinges or hardware) and depending on the color required, either phosphate and oil them, or dip them in a blackening agent and then phosphate and oil. Phosphating requires the part to be 'cooked' at 180 F plus, in a mild phosphoric acid bath for up to 10 minutes. I find that air drying and then oiling them gives a good finish. You need stainless steel tanks and tools to do all this.

    Jim

  • Dave's a real craftsman. The pictures really show it but you can also tell just by talking to him. He pays a lot of attention to detail and takes his time. I'm too embarassed by my own pathetic work to show it off like that!

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    Thanks Fred. I'm not sure if the bolts are painted or natural that hold the spring cover on. I'll have to strip the black off the engine mounts cause they are to be natural. ..............

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    Looks good Dave. Those bolts should be the same as the others - natural (phosphate & oil)


    Looks like your almost to that point (once the brake lines and other items are in place) to blow some sealer over the firewall openings. This is always a tough step for restorers - especially owners after all the careful pretty work. Can't remember how many I've been ask to do when the owners could not bring themselves to do it


    BTW are you going to leave the master cylinder and cap natural?


    Again nice work !!

  • Thanks Jeff and all for the wonderful complements.

    I have all the time but not the cash, now with a newborn. So this brings me to a stopping point or slow down. The baby that breaths through the nose and mouth gets the preference. The baby that breaths through the carburetor is second. Yes, I do have the heart to spray the sealer on the firewall openings. I always wondered why that was a messy area. Then Charles stated about that in a past post. Also that master cylinder cap is NOS but, I'm going the use my old one sense it should be all black. I'll have that for a spare. Why spray a perfectly good one. I keep in mind that our cars were for everyday use when new and restoring it the way it should be, would be no problem. Again, this site has been very helpful in all areas so I can thank everyone for their input.

    Dave V.

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