Posts by b9folk_old

  • 5R09K149499

    Well, really sad to be selling. But it will be less sad if I can see it on the road again. I was digging through the big containers of parts and surprised at how many small things I acquired for the project over the years.

  • 5R09K149499

    SOLD to the gentleman from Nebraska, pending completion of the transaction.


    Now if I can find a buyer for my '77 T-bird... It has a great body, good cloth seat upholstery, and a fairly new short block but needs electrical work and carb rebuild. $1500 would take it. A/C even works.

  • 5R09K149499

    Just remembered a couple of other things:


    Someone replaced half of the taillight panel. I planned to replace the whole thing.


    The original shipping tiedowns are still with the car. I can't remember if I've taken them off or not - will have to look.

  • 5R09K149499

    I have purchased a few things such as refurbished original emblems for "2+2 Mustang" and "289". Also have repro early style brake & clutch pedal pads, repro hood bumpers with the screwhead (I still have the originals), and a few decals and misc items.


    I am asking $6000 for it. Purchaser would have to provide transport from Elk River, MN. If purchasing the original front fenders, they are in Tracy, MN.


    I will be posting photos. Since I am at the coffee shop to use their internet, if I don't post them today it may take a couple of days. Our home internet is supposed to be back up on Tuesday.


    Lyle

  • 5R09K149499

    Known history of the car and misc info:


    I bought the car in 1989. At that time it had 4 new quarter panels. I also have the original front quarters for them in a different location than the car. Willing to sell them separately or with the car.


    I drove the car from 1989 to 1996. At that point there were enough mechanical needs that I stopped driving it. I have disassembled the front suspension and body, and the engine compartment except for the shortblock. I have purchased new suspension bushings and upper arm shaft kits.


    Previous owner did some patching which I intended to re-do. The outer firewalls and various portions of the floor need work. Right rear framerail is rotted. Front framerail where the bumper support attaches was replaced on the right side by previous owner. I've started work on the left side one as it was rusted. Needs new arm for that side.


    At some point in the car's history, the right rear quarter was replaced. I believe some work was also done on the right front corner of the car so may have been in an accident.


    Doors have had some bodywork done previously. It appears that at one time there were 2 speakers in each door, but the hole for the lower one near the kick panel was repaired and re-textured. The trap door to the trunk has a speaker hole cut in it.

  • 5R09K149499

    Hipo engine is gone but here is what remains:


    * HCC-AX steering box

    * Hipo 4-bladed fan

    * 13/16" front sway bar

    * Vin-stamped 4-speed toploader transmission

    * 9" rear differential

    * original door tag and all 3 front fender apron stampings

    * 1965 Hipo engine mounts

    * clutch Z-bar (though someone welded extra metal to it)

    * suspension springs (front ones had white paint stripe)

    * hole for choke cable

    * rear floor reinforcements for dual exhaust

    * tailpipe hangars for Arvinode or transverse


    Because I was planning to convert the existing 289 to hipo, I have purchased a harmonic balancer, "hatchet" weight, service replacement mechanical distributor, Boss 302 rods, Mexican 302 main caps, reproduction exhaust manifolds, reproduction engine dress-up kit.

  • 5R09K149499

    Currently sorting through photos to post. Our internet has been down for several days so I'm now at the coffee shop.


    The car is an early 2+2 (fastback) with center console option.


    The car has many "early" car features such as:

    * 2-wire heater motor with center off position (I have a new motor)

    * early style wiper nuts & flanges

    * hood bumpers with screw head holes (I've purchased matching replacements)

    * tailpipe hangars for Arvinode or transverse

    * clip-on interior door handles and window cranks

    * early angle-bracket style folding seat supports

    * lipped hood (actually an early stamping defect)

    * carpet with vinyl from the floor to the door sills (now missing)

  • 5R09K149499

    Hi guys,


    In order to start digging out of a financial hole from 2 years of unemployement, I am selling my kar. I bought it in 1989. It was last road driven at my wedding in 1996. It has the number stamps on the transmission and 3 fender aprons, and has the original door tag in place. The original engine is long gone but there is a 289 of similar vintage in place. I will add lots of details and photos to this post later this week.


    Lyle

    <img src=images/icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

  • Back on the Mouse-Tang

    I see some familiar names in the posts, that's reassuring. I had top stop my car project in February 2008 when I lost my job. Today was my first full-time work day since then, so maybe in a few months (after creditors and such are dealt with) I may be able to start again. Glad to see things are still rolling along here!

  • Unemployment

    I haven't been on here in a while because I've been unemployed since February of 2008. I'm still unemployed and my wife was off for a year during this period. I didn't really consider selling the car since it is in a lot of pieces but did try to sell the '77 T-bird with no luck. Nobody is looking for a BIG car. Wife has since gotten a good job. Meanwhile, my father-in-law died and I was given a few hundred bucks that I may spend on parts to get things moving again. He'd like that, as he was a retired mechanic and encouraged me to work on my car by lending me tools.

  • Tools Explained

    I got this in an email, but thought you guys would really enjoy it.


    TOOLS EXPLAINED


    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching

    flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the

    chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the

    freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner

    where nothing could get to it.


    WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere

    under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints

    and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you

    to say, 'Oh sh -- '


    ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their

    holes until you die of old age.


    SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.


    PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation

    of blood-blisters.


    BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor

    touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.


    HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board

    principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable

    motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more

    dismal your future becomes.


    VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt

    heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer

    intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.


    OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various

    flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the

    grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing

    race.


    TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood

    projectiles for testing wall integrity.


    HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground

    after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack

    handle firmly under the bumper.


    BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops

    to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit

    into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of

    the outside edge.


    TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength

    of everything you forgot to disconnect.


    PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under

    lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil

    on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out

    Phillips screw heads.


    STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used

    to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and

    butchering your palms.


    PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or

    bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.


    HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.


    HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays

    is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts

    adjacent the object we are trying to hit.


    UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of

    cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly

    well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic

    bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic

    parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in

    use.


    F***-IT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage

    while yelling 'F***-IT' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most

    often, the next tool that you will need.

  • Top Gear, anyone?

    Anyone here a fan of Top Gear, the BBC high-performance car show?


    It is always entertaining, and often the 3 hosts will do silly competitions like race a Ferrari against an airplane to see who can get across Germany quicker. They have done a few shows where they modify cars to see who can get theirs across the English Channel quicker. Usually at least 2 of them sink.


    Of course, they also look at the new models of cars and test them on a closed track.


    http://www.topgear.com/

    http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/

  • Oil

    I noticed that Eastwood now carries bottles of a ZDDP additive. I think someone else here was running an STP brand one? May be worth adding a bottle. There are several archived posts about the issue.

  • 1965 starting instructions

    I'm fine with reprint. Since the 1966 version doesn't mention starting or manual choke, I assume the 1965 one doesn't either. That leaves open the question of whether any tag or sticker pointed out that feature originally, or if the salesman had to give a little lesson to the buyer.

  • What other types of cars do you own?

    I sold my '89 Mustang hatchback GT to a nephew when we bought a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, my daily driver. I miss the 'stang but it has since died anyway.


    I also have a '77 T-bird that I bought in 1989, same summer I bought my '65 hipo and same price, both were $3000. The hood is 5' long.


    The wife drives a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Also on our premises are the father-in-law's 1937 Ford 60 coupe in original condition and his 2 Dodge Caravans (2005 and a much older one.)


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    [Blocked Image: http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb178/b9folk/RH.jpg]


    Edited by - b9folk on 12/06/2008 00:00:20