Posts by J_Speegle_old

    Interesting find - would love to see a scan.


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    The most interesting part of the two sheets is the SCHED DATE box. On the Yellow/White one it says 07K, on the Pinkish one it says 30K.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Remember this (scheduled build date - projected build date) is only a guess on the part of a worker in the office.


    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Is it possible the car stopped in production and held for almost a month? Or maybe the order was changed during production?

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    More likely the original "guess" of build date got changed for some unknown reason.


    Don't believe cars were built then just sat around waiting for engine - not that amount of free space available from my understanding. Easier just to wait to start them if there was a shortage at San Jose


    Keep an eye out for a smaller piece of paper (approx 2 x 4") with your cars VIN and a small amount of additional info

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    Found the same on quite a few San Jose cars built around that time period. If you clean the bottom of the front frame rails under the engine bay, you will most likely find red-oxide there................

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    Agree there is a somewhat short period where San Jose choose a different product for the floor pans before returning to the red oxide


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    There have been discussions as to why the bottom of the front is different from the belly of the car. It mainly has to do with the belly portion being sprayed with fixtures and the front being done by hand.

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    ++1

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    As far as I know, the S/J built cars did not have build sheets.

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    They used them - just didn't use them (attach them) to the sub-assembles like the other plants So less of them at the car to get thrown/left in the cars.

    Products used are as different as the restorers. Unfortunately no current product that I know of reacts with the top coat (exterior color) like the original. Add to this that allot of current legal products are difficult to get to the thickness of the original stuff since second and third coats (to build the thickness and texture) many times dissolves earlier coats


    Guns to apply the products are pretty pricey and can effect which product you choose. Some options include the Wurth product, Fusion, Sludge.....


    At least 50% of a correct job is the technique (as usual) So look at a number of original examples from you car's assembly plant and build period.


    It's a start

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    Charles:


    Regarding your comment on appropriate finish for concours judging, am I reading correctly that some were found painted, while others were not? Is this another example of Ford's consistency in manufacturing?

    ............

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    Often a differences in supplier - so the next question would be - Where was your Mustang built? (for the correct response)


    Edited by - J_Speegle on 11/10/2010 22:31:07

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    .......... I uncovered these markings on the core support. I know about the rotation number, the paint code and trim code. What does the circled 'BL' mean? ....

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    First question would be - Where and when was the car built since markings (same ones at times) and their meanings differed between plants and even month to month according to plant managers


    Bases on what you mentioned so far I'm guessing Dearborn?

    Agree that we need to know which engines your referring to.


    Have that one picture I posted showing them in front of stacks of new 289 complete engines at thew warehouse. All of those appear to be 65 non- K codes (thin balancers, 4V's and tach drive dist)

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    A friend of mine just gave me an original radiator out of a 66 car.

    Were should I look to find date stamp or any other ID numbers?

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    Which plant?


    Dearborn/NJ - would be on one of the side straps


    San Jose - would be the top of the top tank passenger side

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    two questions...

    WHAT IS ORGANGE PEELING?

    is there a similiar explantion on paint on this forum?

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    Here is an example of what it looks like


    [Blocked Image: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/Original%20Uni-body%20%20Pictures/3F03F262956orangepeel4.jpg]

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    GT350 Street cars used the HiPo cam while the Race models

    got another cam.

    /Bo

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    ++1

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    Is there a reliable database of 64.5-66 cars regarding when they were manufactured? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Nope


    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Would the Vehicle Warranty Number on the plate tell when a car actually came off the line, since the scheduled build date may not have been an actual build date?

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    We know that the date on the door tag could be off, typically, by three weeks in either (earlier or later) direction.


    The greatest gap (though very unusual) I've heard about was on a later car and it was off by 4 months


    Best IMHO to use the stamping dates on the unibody sheet metal and use other examples (same plant) to get an idea of when it might have been built. Not easy nor a quick answer


    Edited by - J_Speegle on 04/04/2010 21:45:06

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    Hello,


    this is what I found on my Kar:

    [Blocked Image: http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/25585/2702134900033851696S425x425Q85.jpg]

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    Can you tell use more (when and where the car was likely built) so we can use that to identify and evaluate the markings?


    Thanks

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    Jeff,

    Probably the reason DeadNutsOn stamp their alternator twice.

    Were you their advisor? Just bought an alternator for my 65.

    /Bo

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    I share information with allot of the places. Not sure if that is the reason but I'm pretty sure I've provide some to Jack - his choice was the final one of course

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    Thanks Jeff , that will do me , i take it Starter never had a Stamp Upon its housing.


    Thanks , Shane

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    I believe many were stamped with an ink stamp during the 64-67 period. Can't promise everyone was

    Since we're discussing details - the date stamp appears to have been placed on the rear casting before the alternator was even assembled. So it appears to have more to do with the casting and making of that once section rather than the finished alternator - since we can find NOS rear housing with the date on them


    Just sharing