Did anyone know who bought the 66 Shelby serial # 1349 that sold on ebay a week or so ago. I have the # 1348 and we might be able to share some build dates etc. Thanks all.
Shelby Serial 1349
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Did anyone know who bought the 66 Shelby serial # 1349 that sold on ebay a week or so ago. I have the # 1348 and we might be able to share some build dates etc. Thanks all.
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Shelby serial numbers aren't linked with the Ford numbers date wise. They didn't use a "first in, first out system?. So a shelby # 1349 & # 1350 might have widely spaced Ford build dates.
Z. Ray
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Thank you, I know Shelby's have some/none relationship to serial numbers but if the next number to mine is close in dates it might help by compairing mine to theirs to understand build dates. I know the real answer is the Ford vin. Just looking for answers. Thanks again
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Thank you, I know Shelby's have some/none relationship to serial numbers but if the next number to mine is close in dates it might help by compairing mine to theirs to understand build dates. I know the real answer is the Ford vin. ..............
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Also consider that even if the Ford VINS were right after the other the two cars were likely not even built on the same day and could be as different as three weeks
But understand - owners of the early cars have little else to go by
I've owned 1203 since the early 80's
Edited by - J_Speegle on 11/06/2007 16:01:36
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I have to add my two cents. The are all 66 GT350' that I have worked on or owned and K # correlation to the Shelby VIN. 6S1143 and 6S1156 are both blue Hertz cars and are cosecutive K#'s. 6S1370 and 6S1382 are 8962 Ford VIN apart. 6S1765 and 6S1766 are 244 Ford VIN apart.
6S1798 is 332 Ford VIN lower that 1766. I have access to about four more cars and will update when possible. I would imagine that since the non black Hertz cars were bought from Ford in groups of fifty per color that those cars would match up closer to the Ford VIN and Shelby VIN. I agree that the odds of consecutive Ford VIN and cosecutive Shelby VIN and cars is pretty remote.
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For the sake of the hobby, please do not post any full VIN numbers linked with the Shelby number of a particular car. This only promotes fraud and fraudulent cloning and some owners are very sensitive to the subject. Not trying to lecture you as I am sure you already know but just a friendly reminder to the unknowing.
Your point about consecutive numbers is right on.
Lastly as a Shelby owner I have no problem with cloned cars as long as they are represented as such. My next project planed is to build a GT350R model track car as I can no longer consider thrashing my Shelby nor can I modify it to keep up.
The R-model clone, it will keep up! If I pop an engine put in a better one--Ray
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Yes good advise to not publish the Ford vin of a Shelby. There are too many "Shelby GT 350's" that are just air cars.
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I have bought my car in the mid 1980's when there was less fraud, but even thin I looked at a few cars that were not real with long stories about why the vin was a 6R09C
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as well as some cars that had no relationship to a Shelby. We all have our stories about these cars. -
There is no way in Hell I would publicly post both the Ford VIN and Shelby VIN in any forum.
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Looks like the car is in Colorado right now...check out http://www.classicmustangs.com. Vehicle is very rough and already undergoing MAJOR surgery. Click on 1966 Shelby.
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Click on photo albums, then 1966 Shelby.
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- Official Post
I will have to admit that this Shelby has been taken down further than any other car I have seen going through restoration. There are only a handful of original pieces left on this car. This gets back to the discussion of rebodies and such. This one is obviously not a rebody however it is also not much of the original with all of the aftermarket metal.
-Fred-
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That's some pretty amazing sheet metal work! I also have never seen one taken down that far. I'd be more inclined to patch as much original sheet metal as possible instead of replacing full panels. Also, for a car like a Shelby, it might have been more feasible to find a donor car to cut sheet metal out of. Surprisingly, there are lots of rust free 65-66 San Jose cars still out there!
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It is good to see old collectible cars "saved". But, if I were in the market for a Shelby, I would have to pass on these types of restorations. Might as well pay the bucks for a real good one. Here is another one. This person ownes a business and wanted to try all new Dynacorn panels.
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AS FAR AS SHEET METAL GOES,I HAVE DONE A FARE SHARE AND SAVED A "k" FROM BEING SCRAPED,mho//**--
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I owned 1349 in the late 70s, very rough, was green with original Cragars (65s) go figure, i bought it out of Syracuse new York for $900 - got it running and traded it for parts. The next owner restored it, think he was in Spring Green WI hard to believe this is the same car
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I think I would be a little mad if I paid what he did for that car and had to replace the whole body, as far as I see it, if you had to replace all that what it left of the original Shelby? a few samll pieces. If I recall it was already missing a ford # or two up front, pulling all that ford metal will just make it worse if he ever tries to sell it, My 66 was missing only 1 Ford # due to a Crash back in the day and People made a big deal out of it when I was trying to sell it, it still had 2 Ford #'s and the SFM # on the passenger side tower. By the time they repair all that rust and add in the Price for parts, he could have bought him a Nice original Shelby, Don't get me wrong they are trying to save the car, but if you only save line 10% of the original metal, the car should have been rebodied as the original Ford welds wuld have been much Stronger, I whould hate to be hit in this car after it was Put back together. This is just my opinion.
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