I have obtained superb pieces thanks to Scott Smith of VMF. Thanks to everyone on this forum that took the time to look through their stuff for me.
Ray
I have obtained superb pieces thanks to Scott Smith of VMF. Thanks to everyone on this forum that took the time to look through their stuff for me.
Ray
I'm sorry guys. It has been a long time since I looked at it. It is a C5DA 6394-A casting with Ford oval script. So anyone know the PN of the correct clutch release fork boot?
Thanks Ray
Dave,
I think I have coming what I need thanks for your time. Good luck on your build and maybe I can help you sometime in the future.
Best regards,
Ray
This is not the standard Ford bellhousing but rather the alum Shelby version. Don't have a Ford bellhousing here to compare.
Thanks Ray
This is a 66 Shelby. Would the boot be the same as a standard Ford bellhousing?
I have a Nov 66 SJ car with the side spring hole style fork. Wondering what the correct finish should be on this piece. I see nothing in my search of topics.
Thanks Ray
I am sending out my hood latch and hood hinges to Brakebooster.com to be refurbished. I believe the hood latch should be charcoal gray phosphate but not sure if the hood hinges should be the same or black phosphate. What say the judges?
Thanks Ray
Dave,
I need the outer coil spring cover only-sometimes referred to as the outer shock tower brace. I have a pic I can put up or e-mail you.
Thanks Ray
Getting back to Chris's original appeal for steel painted wheels lets narrow the discussion back to painted wheels used with KH calipers,64 to 66.
What I am hearing is disc brake wheels will fit on drum brake cars but
drum brake wheels will not fit on KH disc brake cars. If that is true then GTs would have a disc brake clearing type wheel both front and rear including the spare.
Once Ford figured there was no point in have both types of standard steel wheels the drum brake wheel was probably dropped when the stock pile was used up. Probably early 65?? If this is the case the question is when the change, what PN were involved and how to visibly identify difference for the swap meet lookers.
I notice a guy on ebay was selling 5 lug 14x5 inch OEM wheels for a 65 66 Mustang and he said they were for drum brake cars only. I need to know what's what as I need to be looking for a spare wheel/tire and jack. I know there is a allot of miss info on Ebay but this guy was a guy that deals in lots of OEM parts for Mustangs. So are all the painted steel 14inch wheels all the same?
Opps, Dave the number I gave you is for the Shelby backing plates. They have a different offset for the wider drums and shoes.
Regardless, I bet the number is in the same place.
Ray
Dave,
On the back, oriented with the wheel cyl to the top the number is at 9 o'clock. Should read 70391. At 3 o'clock you will see the Ford script.
Here is a hint if you need to blast yours. Take some cauking and cover the Ford script and part number. Let this set up over night and then you can blast away. Some times vision can be limited in the blast cabinet or if you have someone else blast them for you then you can rest assured that they will not blast away on the important details that need to be preserved.
Best regards,
Ray
I have heard there is a difference between a wheel for drum brakes and that of a disc brake car wheel. Anyone have good word on this point?
Iowa,
I think 6 cyl and V8 are all the same. 65/66 are different design than the 67-68. I would be interested in passenger side if pitting is minimal. I found out along time ago not to throw anything away that is nice no matter how obscure the part may be. When I was selling allot of cars years back I always said, "there is an ass for every seat". PM if you come across it.
Thanks
Ray
Still looking for driver's side Oct,Nov,Jan.
Yes I would stamp a Jan to look like a 10 or 11!
E-mail me with what you have.
Fred you mean I got to bend over.Lol That's why I was using the assembly date. That's no problem though. Easier than pulling it apart. He will be selling the engine and was just trying to see who he should appeal to. We thought if it was a 260 it might be good to pitch to the Tiger guys.
Thanks Ray
My buddy came across a 5 bolt SBF engine that appears to be recently rebuilt. Assembly date is 3K9C. We were wondering if there was a way to tell if this is a 260 or 289 without pulling a head or valve cover. Is there an external way to tell. I first thought of the timing pointer but that would be the same for 260 or 289 I think. Any input would be appreciated. I know 289 heads had the raised casting numbers on the head but not sure about 260 as I have never had one apart. We may end pulling a valve cover.
Ray
Edited by - poboy427 on 01/06/2011 23:22:41
With a nice set of OEM vent frames, w/out pitting, what could I expect to pay for a nice triple plate price at Q-C. I am ready to send mine out too.
Ray
My AMK catalog shows C7ZE-8005 R2 is the correct rad if the 67 car was built after 12/66 and yours is.
Good news is the 289C code radiator is no different than what the HiPo radiator was. Also since it is a Dearborn radiator you will not be dealing with the San Jose radiators the run a thousand or more because they are correct for Shelbys.
I just had one recored here in Iowa and it cost me $350. I would post a want ad here and over at VMF. Good luck.
Ray