I just purchased a 9 inch housing from Don for my 1966 coupe. I was immediately impressed with the quality of this unit right out of the box. Everything looks new, the welding is top notch and the paint on it was beautiful. You really do get what you pay for. Thanks Don.
Posts by oscart_old
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I have not heard of it. My builder recommended Shell Rotella. I ended up using Joe Gibbs BR break-in oil. It has high levels of zinc and phosphorus which is good for flat tappet engines.
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I have the identical copy of that magazine. From the article, this appears to be a car that was heavily used and tested by the media people. Most likely a preproduction car. I wonder what became of it.
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It would be good to compare this one to a reproduction. Chances are you will never see one again.
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I have had two cams designed by Ed Curtis at http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ and would now
only purchase a custom cam instead of a generic of
the shelf grind. He is a Ford guy and knows his stuff.
Just google his name.
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This looks like a nice complete engine for a 1965 kar or k-boat?
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It looks pretty original but the price seems a bit high. I am sure it is a very rare model but not sure how desireable it is to a collector.
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Yeah, that is what I said in my last post. I bid on it earlier but will watch it now. I will see how I enjoy my C4 and if I want to shift, might step up to a T-5. Will have car ready this weekend with the 3.80 gears and hope that it doesn't drive me nuts. I am running a 4.30 on my '93 5.0 and with the T-5 it is great on the highway. Never fear the gear, but...
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Looks like someone told him it was priced too low. Re-listed at $950.00
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Yes, I would love to have the paint code as well. I am looking at a couple colors for a 1961 Futura I am building for my daughter and I really like the look of the modified HG.
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I will be painting my 64 Econoline in the near future and Honey Gold is my choice as of now but I really like the way that FB looks.Any chance of getting your recipe on that color so I can get a sample made?
mike
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Great shots! Thanks for sharing.
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After stripping and prepping my engine compartment, I sprayed it with Engine Compartment Black from The Eastwood Company. It thinned easily and went on great. Over 15 years later it still looks new. The sheen is perfect and if you like I can send you photos.
Cheers.
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I have a concourse restored Pony Carb setup complete, only run on fresh engine for about 4 hours max. Complete. Let me know.
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Yes, I have my dad's from when he had a 1957 Ford Fairlane. It was brown leather folded over with extra clips for more keys. I have a NOS one that is similar and has the California dealer name embossed in gold. Very nice. You can find them on Ebay from time to time. The leather is good too as it will not scratch the paint on the dash when swinging around. It is a nice detail to have as well. Just as am FYI, the keys to my dad's 1957 also work on my Mustang. Weird, but prolly cause they are so worn.
Edited by - oscart on 12/18/2008 08:46:35
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Outstanding images. Looks like it was an all Ford day at the track. Good to see the Mustang at the track as well. The pictures look like it was just yesterday.
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I will only guess that the new Mustang is even heavier then the current one. Over the years the Mustang has gained too much weight and is now in the big block Chevelle weight range. That is too heavy for any type of racing. I would like to see a stripped down version, but I think those days ended after 1993 when you could get a 5.0 coupe with no a/c or power anything and bolt on a set of skinnies, slicks and gears and go drag racing. A stripped down 1993 5.0 coupe could be had for $12,500. I bought my loaded 1993 5.0 coupe for $15,500. I think that was in the Ford Escort price range in the day. Those were the days.
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Don't like it. They basically just tweaked the last design and none of the changes are for the better IMO. But, the big three are in big trouble and we will see how much longer Ford and GM will even be around. <img src=images/icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
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After a few engine builds and not being satisfied with the durability of rattle can engine paints I tried the POR-15 engine paint kit. After the initial prep and primer coat, you can actually brush on the engine paint. I have used a single kit on three engines. The finish is quite shiney, but incredibly durable. All engines four years later still look like new. Can't say that with the standard paints which seem to fade and the cast iron rust through. Is the Ford Blue a perfect match? Don't know, but unless you are going to concourse shows, don't sweat it. This paint is TOUGH. I highly recommend it and always get compliments on my engine and have won several Best Engine awards. No rusted, faded or stained paint here.