K- Kode Values

kstang_old · January 21, 2008 at 3:21 PM

I am looking for a little advice. I recently completed a 7 year restoration of my 66 C-4, K-Kode Fastback. I have at least 25k into the car. The car is as pretty on top and the underside. The block , internals are from another kcode 2 months younger than my build date. I also optioned the engine bay with the Cobra valve covers, Cobra Hi-Rise intake, 8qt Cobra T-pan, Tri-y headers, 66 Cobra steering wheel. The car has the original 4 blade fan, quick ratio steering box. I have the Distributor/Carb however it is out of the car as I went with a weekend driver setup. I also wanted the car to stop and added front set of Wilwood brakes. I have the original drums. The car is in the registery. Can anyone guide me on a ball park value of this car? I checked the NADA collector car guide and they quoted 39,700 plus 35% for the K-Kode premium. $53,595. This of course does not factor in the rarity of the A/T. Any one's help is much appreciated..

round2K_old · January 21, 2008 at 4:23 PM

You may find that the autmotaic, though rare, is not as desirable as a stick.

66gtk · January 21, 2008 at 4:34 PM

What "advice" are you looking for? Insurance? Are you selling? Are you gifting?

SixT5HiPo · January 21, 2008 at 4:53 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

You may find that the autmotaic, though rare, is not as desirable as a stick.

Couldn't agree more...<img src=images/icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>

kstang_old · January 21, 2008 at 7:30 PM

I am looking to get a ballpark on the value for insurance. Hagerty works off a agreed upon value..

I am thinking $45k would cover the raw value.

round2K_old · January 21, 2008 at 7:34 PM

Hagerty uses the NADA as their starting point. If you want to get into the upper end of their prices you will have to give them some background on the show history of the car. They generally want authentication of a #1 car for their top end. If you haven't insured with them yet they will ask you for an image file. It's not easy to over-insure, but it is definitely easy to under-insure. The best bet is to insure for as much as they will let you get a way with.

kstang_old · January 22, 2008 at 7:55 AM

thanks I agree....better to be safe than out a couple grand if something happens..

65HiPo · January 22, 2008 at 11:05 AM

I've got my K-code insured with Hagerty. It's probably not worth it, but they didn't hesitate to insure it for 60K.

289kford · January 22, 2008 at 1:55 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

You may find that the autmotaic, though rare, is not as desirable as a stick.

4 speed adds 10%

not that I'm complaining, but 60K+. wow.

I have a hard time thinking a car I bought for 1500 in '76 can be worth that much today. I never thought of it as an investment.

would the NADA 'high' number be a car that everything was replaced with NOS (suspension for example) during a complete restoration, or just be not worn out parts? what about a car that is modified a bit but can be easily changed back? I'm unclear on their term '100 point or #1 car' which they say is not the same as high value.

Edited by - 289kford on 01/22/2008 14:00:28

round2K_old · January 22, 2008 at 3:14 PM

You can always email them. They are generally responsive to questions of that kind.

kar-nut_old · January 22, 2008 at 4:58 PM

From the NADA site:

High Retail Value

This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.

* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

Another tip to lower your insurance cost if allowed in your state is to register your classic car as a historical vehicle.

boss1_old · January 23, 2008 at 10:08 AM

NADA is a bunch of garbage. Here is a market value for you.

K code Fastback...Number 2 condition. Unless it is a concours trailered car with pedigree...I would never call it a number 1.

45-50K

Deduct 20% for Non-GT

Deduct 10% for auto

Not sure what color your car is...

Market value $35-40K

66gtk · January 23, 2008 at 11:18 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

NADA is a bunch of garbage. Here is a market value for you.

K code Fastback...Number 2 condition. Unless it is a concours trailered car with pedigree...I would never call it a number 1.

45-50K

Deduct 20% for Non-GT

Deduct 10% for auto

Not sure what color your car is...

Market value $35-40K

I'd have to agree with this from a "reality" perspective. However, it sure seems hard to locate K code fastbacks below $40K.

boss1_old · January 23, 2008 at 4:16 PM

Cars come up for sale all the time. There was just a real nice Green GT fastback on sale here....I think it ended up going for around 38K maybe a little less. The market is weak. When I see 67 Shelbys barely get into the 70K range....the same cars that brought $120 just a year ago...it tells me the market continues to correct.

round2K_old · January 23, 2008 at 9:43 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>NADA is a bunch of garbage. Here is a market value for you. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

NADA has this spread for 1965, 2+2, 271/289, 4 speed, SS wheels:

$19,148 $32,395* $61,400

It is quite a range and the insurance companies do use it for their valuations. I wouldn't characterize this as out of line with the low, medium and high range of the market.

LuvKcodes_old · January 23, 2008 at 10:57 PM

The NADA value or any other valuation really isn't important. You are insuring the Kar for an agreed to value. It's up to you to decide what that agreed to value is. It should be the amount you would be happy with, and are willing to pay the premiums on, in the event the Kar is a total loss and the insurance company pays you that amount.

You might determine the amount based on what you have in the Kar or what it would cost to replace the Kar by building another one or buying a suitable replacement on the market.

You should check with the various classic car insurance companies for their terms and get quotes. In my experience the premium cost is not great for a few thousand more in agreed to value so you might want to go with a bit higher amount rather than under-insure.

I value my fastback Kar at $50,000 although if I were selling it might not bring quite that. But I might have to pay a little more to get a suitable replacement.

Most people would prefer the 4-speed in a K code but there are some who would want the C4 so you'd just have to find the right buyer who would be willing to pay a premium if you think there is one.

Edited by - LuvKcodes on 01/23/2008 22:57:59

round2K_old · January 24, 2008 at 5:15 AM

The NADA values are important to understand in that some of the insurance carriers use them as the upper end of the underwriting limits. If you have a car worth $50,000 and you try to insure it for a $1 million the carrier isn't going to underwrite your coverage. The point of introducing the concept of NADA values into the discussion was simple; NADA may not be an accurate as representation of the wholesale or retail market, but they do serve to act as underwriting guidelines for Hagerty and several others.

Edited by - round2K on 01/24/2008 05:16:50

66gtk · January 24, 2008 at 6:00 AM

I actually got a notice from Hagerty last year stating that they felt my car was "under-insured" and even provided me with a recommendation for value. They were pretty darn close, I think.

toolbox · January 24, 2008 at 6:25 AM

^^^ ditto

They also requested that I increased the agreed value, and of course the premium payment this past period, which I did.

Another cool thing with Hagerty is they have "spare parts" insurance, which is good for us guys who like to stockpile parts.

boss1_old · January 24, 2008 at 7:20 AM

The insurance companies are not "looking out" for your best interest. Their actuaries look at past claims and make predictions based on historical loss. Very few classics are driven much, and some never leave the garage. The higher they insure it for, the more they get in premium.

The OP was asking about a value. To me, value is what someone (The market) is willing to pay....not a bogus appraisal...or inflated NADA numbers.

Car sounds like a very nice car and the OP certainly has plenty of equity.

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