Saw this K listed for sale in Wyoming. Haven't seen the car. It's been for sale off and on for a long time. I do know a couple of guys who have seen it.
Don't often see one the original owner still has.
Note that pic of the VIN. The star in the middle of the number. No reason to think that's anything other than a factory gaff. VIN stamping was far from precise.
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=…view&ad=4146743
Edited by - LuvKcodes on 04/02/2011 00:35:23
Update on 5F08K699404. The Kar (and I use the K loosely) is sitting on the showroom floor of a classic car dealer in Salt Lake City. The asking price is $39,999. At first glance it looks pretty nice. However, a cursory once over did reveal a number of obvious discrepancies. I wrote down the VIN and looked it up here and found this thread. All the above comments appear to be accurate. I will second the warnings about doing a careful inspection before buying the car.
It doesn't appear that any of the problems have been corrected. Not that the worst of them could be corrected. The car is quite possibly pieced together from who knows what and who knows how. The dealer pulled out the title and told me that the car came from a seller in Idaho. The dealer did not volunteer that the title is branded and I didn't get a look at the title so cannot verify that. But after seeing all the obvious, careless repair/restoration work on the car, it doesn't surprise me. The dealer claims that they know absolutely nothing more about the car so can't answer any questions.
Even the fog light switch is still in the wrong spot on the dash although the car was not originally a GT anyway. At least the switch does turn the fog lights on. That's one of the best things I can say about the car.
This car probably is the one that was for sale at a Las Vegas classic car dealer on West Sahara a few years ago. I think it was on Ebay back then also.
This was the only thread that turned up in a search of the VIN. Seems like there should be others.
Don't know about any bookstores with vintage magazines. I've got a good personal collection including a complete collection of Mustang Monthly!
There are some car shows/cruise-ins. These web sites have info on them:
http://www.hugsforlife.info/events.html
http://rockinhotrodproductions.com/home.htm
The Murray show on Saturday should be the best one in the next few days.
I don't have any of the items you are looking for but there are a lot of Mustang people in the area. Never know when you might run across something.
Edit: Also a big car show in Bountiful on Saturday but it looks like the weather is not going to cooperate so may be rained out. There was a Friday night cruise in conjunction with this too but lots of rain tonight!
http://www.bountifulrotary.com/johntest/bount…ry_club_004.htm
Edited by - LuvKcodes on 06/11/2010 19:25:21
I've sold on Ebay to out of the country including to Australia. But there is some risk in doing so. Many Ebay sellers state in their ad that they won't sell outside the USA. They have had problems in the past and don't want to take the chance.
One problem is payment. PayPal seems safe but a PayPal payment by credit card can be canceled by the buyer or a stolen credit card might be used. PayPal will then charge the amount back to the seller. This might take a couple of months so if the seller has already shipped, he's out his item and the money. It does happen. I've accepted PayPal for smaller amounts with agreement to wait at least a month, usually stretched it out to two, before I shipped just to make sure the payment would not get canceled.
Cashier's checks can be forged. Not a good idea to take a cashier's check unless you know the seller and know the check is good. I only do it for local buyers where I can take it to the buyer's bank and get it converted to cash or bank check.
The safe payment method is by wire transfer, bank to bank. The buyer's bank will only transfer the money to the seller's bank when they have guaranteed funds. Once the money is in the seller's bank account, it can't be taken back. So you're safe to ship once you have verified that the funds are in your account. The buyer and his bank will work out the currency exchange so your bank will receive the amount of the sale in dollars.
Be sure when quoting the total price, to include all fees (don't forget the PayPal charges) and shipping costs so you don't shortchange yourself. It's easier to get the full payment at one time so you don't have to go back and get more if you don't calculate right.
You can get shipping quotes when you know where the item is going and how you are shipping.
For cars, let the buyer make all the shipping arrangements. Buyers in Australia know how to get cars shipped from the States to them. They can have the car picked up at the seller's house and taken to the shipping company. They will pay all the costs directly to the transporter and shipper.
Apparently sold on Ebay for minimum bid of $40,000. There was no reserve. Seems like a deal if it's as good as advertised.
I emailed the dealer/seller and asked a number of questions. Most of which he ignored in his brief response. Here is his response in it's entirety:
"It's a factory K code GT, not a GT350. It is clearly addressed. I think the fender inner apron may have been replaced. The former owner has died."
So the dealer is either totally unaware that the Kar (if it truely is a Kar and not just a car) cannot be a genuine GT or is choosing to continue to misrepresent the Kar. I told him the Kar cannot be a GT, it was built too early. He ignored that. I don't agree that anything in his Ebay listing is "clearly addressed."
I asked for info on prior owners and whoever restored the Kar. His response was "The former owner has died." Info from this dealer/seller is obviously not to be relied upon. I asked if the car was consigned and that was ignored also. Good possibility that the car is consigned what with the plates on it. Someone might want to trace the plates and find out who the owner is. A chat with the owner and or restorer would surely answer a lot of questions.
Anyone with interest in bidding on this car should go look it over very carefully and satisfy themselves as to just what it is. "The fender apron may have been replaced" is just about as big a red flag as you could possibly have when buying a K code.
Apparently the recent changes in automotive oil make it unsuitable (low zinc content) for use in high performance cars, vintage cars and motorcycles. Of course, most of my vehicles fit in those categories. So I've done some reading on what oil to use in my various vehicles. There are some some very good oils readily available, probably better than anything on the market not too many years ago.
I've been using Mobil 1 in a lot of cars: 15W-50 in some vintage (including Mustangs) and 5W-30 in later models, my driver Z06 Vette calls for Mobil 1, good choice by GM. However, I also use non-synthetic oil in some cars, for various reasons.
I was in Costco today and saw Mobil 1, 15W-50 for about $24 for 6 quarts, which is about $4 a quart. They have it priced to clear out so it must be a slow seller (you can tell Costco sale or clearance items by the price, all regular prices end in a 9 while close-out or sale items have the price changed to end in a number other than 9). The Costco store in your area may or may not have the oil or the same price.
Costco also has Mobil 1 in 10W-30 and 5W-30 but they are priced at about $31 for 6 quarts and are not on clearance.
With oil prices going up, the 15W-50 might be worth stocking up on.
I've still got some Quaker State 10W-30 from years ago I stocked up on and haven't used up yet so all I need is more oil it will take years to use.
Costco also carries Chevron Delo 400 LE, 15W-40, which is their latest diesel oil. It also has a high zinc (and other minerals) content so should be good for flat-tappet motors. However, it's in the economy 6 gallon for about $60 pack, so it's about $2.50 a quart. Several posters on motorcycle and vintage car forums say they use this oil. I use it in some cars where I think it's more appropriate than synthetic.
I think both Wal-Mart and Sam's Club carry these oils too so it would be good to check prices to see which is cheaper before stocking up.
The NADA value or any other valuation really isn't important. You are insuring the Kar for an agreed to value. It's up to you to decide what that agreed to value is. It should be the amount you would be happy with, and are willing to pay the premiums on, in the event the Kar is a total loss and the insurance company pays you that amount.
You might determine the amount based on what you have in the Kar or what it would cost to replace the Kar by building another one or buying a suitable replacement on the market.
You should check with the various classic car insurance companies for their terms and get quotes. In my experience the premium cost is not great for a few thousand more in agreed to value so you might want to go with a bit higher amount rather than under-insure.
I value my fastback Kar at $50,000 although if I were selling it might not bring quite that. But I might have to pay a little more to get a suitable replacement.
Most people would prefer the 4-speed in a K code but there are some who would want the C4 so you'd just have to find the right buyer who would be willing to pay a premium if you think there is one.
Edited by - LuvKcodes on 01/23/2008 22:57:59
I would love to have an early original Konvert such as this but without the rust and other issues. The asking price is way too high I think. I can't imagine paying that kind of money for a rust bucket.
I deal on ebay a lot and it seems like there are very few higher dollar, and many low dollar, items that are legitimately bid. Ebay sellers have wised up to playing the game, it's very easy to shill bid an item up in price and it appears everyone does it. Every auction seems to be influenced by ghost bidders bidding the item up to near the reserve price, hoping a sucker jumps in at the last minute and meets the reserve. If a person is going to buy anything on ebay, they have to know what they are willing to pay and not go any higher, unless they just have to have the item.
Too bad the owner didn't list the car on here first. Classic car dealers like to mark their consigned cars up a lot... often 50 to 100 percent. Maybe the owner will get wind of this website and list the Kar on here if it doesn't sell? If anyone gets any pics, VIN, etc... post the info on here.
While we're at it... I need a very nice condition correct jack and handle for a March 1965 Mustang.
Well at least the seller is disclosing the origins of the Kar. I wonder how much the "best of both cars" was from the K code Kar? Would be interesting to go over it and see what all is there... and what isn't. Apparently the door tag was reproduced to reflect what the car is now.
I believe I would keep looking, especially at that price. It would be a very good looking driver though.
I really like all three body styles but if I have to rank them then it's fastback, convert, coupe. The fastback is more practical than the convert and the best looking of the three. I've had all Mustang body styles and still have a '65 K code FB and a convert (A code). I never put the top down on the convert anymore, don't like the looks of the wrinkles. The FB just seems more "real K code" probably because of the Shelby FB's.
I would happily own any of of the three body styles of K code Kars... even more happily all three!
Welcome Mike, glad to have another Mustang lover. Sounds like you have the makings of a great car. Post some "before" pics if you can, I'd like to see what you're starting with.
I have a fastback K code that was bought new and lived many years on LI before making it's way west, according to the documentation. LI should be a good place to look for Mustangs.
It's a "rare K code" Kar... without all the rare K code parts! Somewhee along the line somebody ended up with a load of rare K code parts. It does make you wonder if the owner still has them or if they got sold off by one of the "restorers."
It's a good-looking car, the owner has what he wanted, a restomod driver. It's a lot of money for a driver... might as well have done it to a "C" code car instead... be worth just as much. Had that money been spent to restore the K code back to original it would be truly be a beauty and it would be the Kar I would want.
Yeah, it's important to have the build sheet... that way everyone can see what it was... and what it should have been... as opposed to what it is!
I prefer the fastback. I also have a convert but don't even put the top down any more... don't want the wrinkles. It's just not worth the effort either. The fastback is more practical and I like the look better anyway.
A lot of restoration has been done for a Kar that is supposed to only have 10K miles on it. I'd be verifying that statement and the "sat in the garage" for many years story too. I have some low mileage cars and no one ever felt the need to restore what was original and therefore needed no restoration.
The seller should realize that he is responsible for these statements, being a dealer, and he can be held accountable for them. He better have good documentation. Somebody did all that restoration work... and it was surely done for a reason. I would have to know who did it and why before considering a price that high.
I think someone ought to go look at the car and verify what it is, for that price it could be a great deal. The guys states he has some engines and trans for sale... be a good idea to ask him if he knows what happened to the eng and trans out of this car and see if he's got them around his place somewhere. Someone might get a real buy.
You probably have already done an estimate of what it will cost to restore the Kar to where you are happy with it. Go thru that again and make sure you haven't forgotten anything. Add that to the $30,000, if that's the price you have to pay. My guess is that is going to be at least $50,000?
What is a similar Kar worth already restored to a similar quality? Probably not more than $50,000? So, is this a good buy? I would say only if this is the Kar you really want... right model, color, interior, options. If that all adds up then buy it. One thing is that K codes have been steadily going up and should follow the path of Shelby Mustangs, to some extent at least. So you're in it $50,000, that's a lot of money but in a couple of years it hopefully will seem like a good deal.
The argument that the drive-train is worth $10,000 alone is true but not relevant. You're not going to pull the drive-train out and use or sell it separately, makes no sense. And if you did, the rest of the car certainly isn't worth $20,000 because a number of Kars missing the original drive-train have been up for sale for somewhat less.
My estimate of $15-20,000 is figuring that restoration would cost at least $25,000 (just a guess since I haven't seen the Kar, plus the fact that it always costs a lot more than the estimate) and I think a similar Kar (restored) could be bought for less than $50,000 and a person just might find one they liked better (if they wanted a different model, color, options, etc.
There is always the fear that you're letting a great deal get away. But at $30,000 I would say this is no screaming good deal, at least not right now... it well might look like it in a couple of years.
Good luck, I'm anxious to know what you decide!! <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
It's a good car to restore. And you could drive it in the meantime. I'd say if you can get it for $15,000 or less you can't go wrong. Depending on just what it will take for body work, going thru the mechanics and just how much you like this particular car (fastback, color, interior, etc.) it could be worth as much as $20K. The car has some nice things going for it.
