Iowa's 5F09K project

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>From the looks of the firewall, trying to repair that much swiss cheese, would be akin to performing a practice bleeding session on ones self. A real time waster with a doubtfull outcome.


    As fit and function would be practically assured, I'd be inclined to search for a similarly dated donor car production firewall. Same approach for other needed sheet metal parts as well, before going repop. Lots of extra work for sure, but I think it would provide a more satisfying result on the completed restoration. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>


    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    As fit and function would be practically assured, I'd be inclined to search for a similarly dated donor car production firewall. Same approach for other needed sheet metal parts as well, before going repop. Lots of extra work for sure, but I think it would provide a more satisfying result on the completed restoration.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    ++111


    So glad to see this type of recommendation instead of the typical one of buying sheet metal out of a catalog!

    i purchased the

    'weld & sealant assembly manual'

    from the Jim Osborn productions.

    it is very nice and complete

    and will be a great help in my restoration.


    BUT.............


    it is very obnoxious to see

    <i>Official Licensed Product</i>

    stamped onto every drawing!!!<img src=images/icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>

    this was obviously done

    to prevent pirating of this manual

    but i have to adjust my vision

    off this logo each time to see the

    needed information!!


    anyone else have any thots about this?

    or am i just silly

    and the information value

    far outways the 'Logo' inconvinence?


    BTW, my restro is coming along

    i'm in the process of fixing the

    front rail extensions

    have decided to leave as much of the original

    parts as possible

    and patch them as needed

    a laborious process

    but i'm game to do it

    will post pic's in near future


    iowa

    I have some off the shelf software that has the capability to "contrast" away the background stuff you are talking about, but don't tell anybody.

    Jim.

    i'm going to call NPD about this

    probably won't do any good

    but it seems that if one pays good $

    he aught to get a good clean easily read product

    i'll let you know what they say

    iowa

    It's copyrighted materials and (contrary to the previous) is not supposed to be legally copied. It's not an NPD requirement but one of Jim Osborn Reproductions and possibly the Ford Motor Company. That being said -

    Jim

    i have over 5,000 books in my library

    many of them technical manuals,

    99% of them copywrighted,

    and none of them, until now,

    have every single page and diagram

    obscured by the copywright logo.

    I re-read NPD's descripton of these manuals,

    and they do not mention anywhere that

    the pages are thus printed.

    i wouldn't mind if every page had a

    statement that this is copywrighted material

    and that illegal use of it is a crime and punishable

    but to wreck these nice technical drawings is a joke.

    iowa


    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustan…uals-today.html


    Edited by - iowa on 10/23/2010 22:29:24


    Edited by - iowa on 10/23/2010 22:29:47

    my engine needed to be bored out to 30 over

    so will not be using my old pistons

    (6 of 8 are okay)

    should i keep them with the idea of

    someday sleeving my engine in the distant future?

    or sell them?

    thanks

    iowa

    You've got your work cut out for you on sheet metal repair. I would suggest patching that lower shock tower, it's a critical component to the alignment of everything else.


    As far as the body plugs, that's a good question. Maybe they were used for alignment of panels. Or, a carry over from a previous design?

    Dave, My engine needed to be bored to .030 over as well, I believe that TRW makes a correct replacement piston for the Hipo 289-(I believe thats the brand that we used) nothing fancy, just a quality, correct replacement piston, then I sold my originals to a member on our forum, I am not worried about doing anything further later to mine, blocks are bored all the time with no problems.

    thanks for replies

    my engine man says that 6 of the 8 original pistons

    are very usable

    so will probably be putting them up for sell here s.t.

    what are pistons going for now?


    will start on that shock tower today

    will be using material from another mustang

    ....and....gulp.....it will be from that '66 C code

    but at least it is a Dearborn car too

    and i've scrutinized every square mm of it

    and can find absolutely no differences in its construction

    in comparision, the repro's are quite a bit different!!

    more pics later

    iowa

    here is the inner L front frame extension.

    it appears that there was an extra piece

    of sheet metal spot welded in on the bottom front.

    has anyone else found this to be so?

    on the inner lower edge,

    one can see where there is residual metal from this.

    or, has the metal just split into 2 pieces from rust?

    one can see the spot weld by the oval hole in the bottom front

    what do you think?

    iowa


    [Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/2010_11_07_001_L_frt_frame_ext_inner.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/frt_ext_spot_welds_copy.jpg]


    Edited by - iowa on 11/15/2010 10:52:17

    <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I can't quite get oriented to the pictures location and where on the frame rail that is.


    It does appear to me however, to be just aft of where the front cross member and radiator support are welded to the frame rail. If that is the case, there is an oblong hole on the bottom of the outer rail in that location, which incorporates a doubler welded to the inside of the rail. That doubler also has a somewhat smaller oblong hole. I'm guessing the oblong holes are there exclusively for drainage and air circulation when motoring on down the road.


    I can't tell what the overall shape of that doubler is, but suspect it has something to do with reinforcing the two attach points for the bumper horn and the tubular outboad bumper support, all of which attach there as part of the sandwich. Plus, anything else the engineers determined needed to be tied together to form a ridgid assembly.


    Those little scraps of metal at the spot weld points seem to be all that are left of the doubler.


    Wish I could give you a source for an exploded view of that area.In any event, hope I've been of some help.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>


    [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]

    65 rangoon

    i checked the other side, and there is a doubler there!!

    i checked the weld and sealant assb manual

    and it does not show this double on the diagram on page 18.

    thanks for the very nice explaination!!

    i'll probably have to check out the other inner side

    to get exact measurements to weld another one in.

    thanks

    iowa

Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!

Register Yourself Login