Posts by stevea_old

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    If you plan to sell either car, why paint it? (unless you do this kind of work yourself) A bad (cheap) paint job done to quickly SELL a car can usually be spotted, and if so leads to a lot of questions about the integrity of the rest of the car. Why not come up with a price you can't refuse for either of the cars and list them both at the same time and see what happens?

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    Yes I can paint the car and no it won't look bad:) The GT is quite the project needing both quarters and is completely taken apart and partially sand blasted (no running gear). The K code is in good shape with a paint job and putting the interior in and it will be done.


    I would like to get 22K for the K code as it sits, but probably not going to happen in this market honestly. If I paint it and put the interior back in I could get over 22K.

    It's a tough choice. I have had the K code for about 5 years now and have done a lot to it., but in the end it's still just a car. A GT is a very nice car too when done. Part of it's just a bragging right to owning a numbers matching K code, but in the end I could brag up the GT. The money would come in handy for getting the property and I will only have 6K into the GT.

    I'm at a cross road with life and some decisions need to be made. I just picked up this 66 GT Fastback. It has the disc brakes and power steering and I like that. My wife and I are thinking of moving and building another house and shop, but we need cash.


    What if I paint my K code and sell it for lets say 30k. It is a numbers matching motor/trans/ correct rearend car with almost all correct parts. I could keep the 66 GT and then take say 20K and put it down on a couple acres and keep enough to start building a shop? The GT would be worth nearly 30K when done and I would have a great car.


    What do you think?


    Posting this on one other site, or two.

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    Would he like to trade for my wide ratio tl?

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    I talked to him and he wants to keep his. Sorry

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    The case and tail shaft would be a dark gray, shift rods about the same. Inspection plate was natural steel with dark heat-treated bolts. Shift levers and gate assembly were originally zinc plated, so you want those to look silver color.


    This pic should give a general idea of the colors:

    http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/vert/3…26_05%20007.jpg


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    Did you put the yellow writing and dabs of paint back on this one and do you have pictures of the whole thing?

    Thanks

    I have a friend who broke the T lever on his four speed shifter. He has an new T lever and needs to install it, but is not sure of the best way to get the cable that is one piece still through the T bar. I was told it's silver soldered at the top, so is there a way to take the top off and slip the T lever on and re-connect the top of the cable?

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    I'm in need of a '66 HiPo carb depending on the condition of the carb/price for my own car.

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    When I get more info I will send you an email. I need a 65 carb eventually.

    I am in contact with a guy who has some hipo parts and he sent me these numbers and I was wondering if they are correct numbers for a hipo. I don't currently have the correct carb for my 65, but this may be the correct one for a 66 and are they the same?


    Thanks


    we have a FOMOCO 4bbl carb with manual choke and choke cable P/N C6ZFC A5HC.

    also have Hipo Dual Point Distributer Motorcraft C5OF12127 8027


    Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 05/27/2011 00:39:24

    Ok the lithium grease is what I was thinking of using. I know the bearings are not expensive, but the ones in it felt good when I cleaned them up and put a little bit of grease on them. How important do you think it is to replace them? I'm talking about the one at the top of the column.

    I took my steering wheel and column apart to paint it. I checked my bearings and they seem nice and smooth, so I was wondering what lube is best for the bearings and sometimes I see lube on the shaft too. What do you guys put on it for lubrication?

    Thanks

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    FYI... the original post in this thread was started 4 years ago...

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    Ha, That's funny. Well how did the car turn out I wonder:)

    How many cars were re-bodied before they became collector cars? When I was younger, I took a car and replaced the back half of the car with another car. This was done in autobody school. We thought nothing of it. So,at what price range or desirability level does it become such a horrible thing? How many of you may have a re-body and you don't even know it?


    I would not do this to a car personally, but I think Brett was very open and up-front in what he planned to do. If he was really out to screw someone, then he would not have said anything to anyone.


    I had some issues with my original engine block that has the vin stamped on it and several people told me to just get another block and stamp the vin in it, but I could not do that. I ended up putting another $1,000 into the block to fix it, but some people would think nothing of re-stamping it.


    I think it's a personal thing and people get upset, because they think it corrupts the market value of the collector cars. I'm somewhat a purist with my own car, but not so much with others cars.


    Thanks for being open about your car Brett and good luck with the project.