interior door painting/finish removal

My interior doors were painted black at some time, and although the original stamped texture remains to some degree, the top layer of paint is peeling away now in areas (I have no idea how they were painted/dyed or prepped). There is black underneath this peeling layer, but the doors are originaly honey gold (green). My question is - How do I go about stripping down the surface enough to being able to repaint the doors again? I don't want to have to remove the doors,glass, etc.. and the car is all finished, so everything is assembled/complete at this point. I'm hoping to be able to do this by only removing the door panels (:

Sanding it down/feathering the areas would be the easiest, but I don't want to flatten the textured surface of the doors. Any tested strategies?

Thanks,

Troy

Regarding the cleaning wheel? They make several different ones. Which one worked without damaging the grain? I thought those wheels were pretty damn abusive in comparison to sand paper. Now that I think about it, maybe that's the point. Sand paper simply smooths the paint to the level of the texture and won't get the paint in the crevices. That results in a smooth surface. hhmmmm...

Used the wire brush/drill attachment today on the inside of my trap door (I am assuming the stamped metal is identical???).

Before I started, there was no grain at all left from the multiple heavy coats of paint. It took 3-4 treatments of aircraft stripper to get it down to a reasonable level where I could tell the grain was still there. I did the rest with the drill attatchment until I got the entire area in a bright shiny metal. It looked great, but even looked better when I topped it off with a few coats of paint. It looks fantastic. I think I can do the doors this way with little difficulty (other than protecting my car's paint with some tape and plastic/paper.

I sprayed Krylon Rust Tough semi flat black directly on the bare metal. Starting with a mist coat, and then 2-3 more light coats until it was fully covered. I've been very happy with this paint on all my Mustang projects so far, and am using it throughout the interior right now. I tried the hinges in the 51613 (Krylon 1613 replacement) and it was too glossy.

Troy

I sprayed this Krylon product over some areas of bare metal in my engine compartment 3 years ago, and it still looks just as good. I spilled brake fluid over the firewall and didn't clean it up properly since then, which stripped some paint to bare metal, but I don't think that's the paint's fault. I then cleaned around the area a little and reshot the paint right over the metal again. That area has held up perfectly and it's been almost 2 years now.

The directions on the can say NO NEED to use primer unless you are trying to build up areas, and I didn't want to build up the grain. When it comes to paint and prep, I don't like going against the manufacturer's directions or mixing paint systems, so that's what I did. It looks great now. I guess we'll see if it can hold its bond to the metal over the test of time. Yes, I know the claims sound too good to be true for a $5 can of paint, but so far so good.

Man, it's hard to take pics of an all black part. The light bounces around everywhere...

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I saved the doors for last. Lot's of built up paint, runs, loss of grain pattern, etc. Decided to strip to bare metal and start over. pics below follow progression from start to finish. I know many will dissagree with my method of not using epoxy primer and such, but I'm sharing anyway. I'm not an expert, but it's fun to tinker and learn. We'll see what happens. Fun times indeed.

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after some paint stripper...

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now after some wheel cleaning...

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a dust coat of Krylon (directions say to paint over bare metal, so I used very light coats)

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3-4 coats later...

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detail of grain pattern intact again...

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