• I had a pair of NOS Hipo backing plates (and may still have them packed up somewhere, but I think I sold them a few years ago). They had the part number and the Fox Co. on them. That's not to say that they all did, but this pair did. [Charles, they sure looked like chrome to me, as does the pair of '63 Hipo backing plates that I have. If they are anodized, I can't tell the difference.]

  • OK let me make this a little more complicated<img src=images/icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle>bought a set off of ebay--as soon as i opened them i noticed no part# no nothing,that raised a red flag,so off i go to the barn to take an original off of a very rusty but original fender,here is what i found--part# C4ZB-16 either C or 0 236-A,with the oval ford logo and FOX CO...now it gets a little stranger,the 40 yr old pc seems to have a better finish[minus the scratches and dents]than the nos just opened-strange[the originals seem to have a chrome finish-others a brushed aluminum.If been reading this site for many months and thought this was the time to register the car and get an answer.here is what im seeing,the depth of the flags on the sides are not as deep-the depth on high performance not as deep-no paint between the flags-but if i turn them over looks exact where high performance is , except for depth.what do i have?

  • <div class="bbcode_quote_head">Quote:
    The correct engineering part number is C4ZB-16C236-B. Per the Ford product engineering drawing the ornament is bright anodized aluminum.

    [the guestion was,was there any nos without #
    </div>

  • This was answered in my previous post. Yes, there are Ford service replacement parts without engineering numbers on the back. The key thing to remember here is that these emblems were originally anodized aluminum as Tom has confirmed by the engineering drawing. To my knowledge, there are no reproductions that are anodized aluminum, they are all die-cast chromed pieces. To tell the difference, the reproduction chrome will have a much more brilliant appearance, wheras the Ford pieces have more a silver-ish appearance. Additionally, the reproduction is a little heavier than the original style.


    There was a lengthy discussion about what NOS really means on the vintage-mustang forum a couple months back. Makes for some interesting reading to explain why some service parts are different than the assembly line versions:


    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?…post/1461778/hl

  • I'd like to change my previous comments about the NOS ones that I had. Now that I think about it, I can't remember for certain whether they looked chrome or not.<img src=images/icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    There was a lengthy discussion about what NOS really means on the vintage-mustang forum a couple months back. Makes for some interesting reading to explain why some service parts are different than the assembly line versions:


    http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?…post/1461778/hl

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Great link! Thanks for posting it here...

  • OK, so I know the badges below were original to my car. The high performance badge is C4ZB-16C236-A not -B. My '66 was not an early or late car. Does anyone else have originals to compare? Just for giggles I grabbed a few of the badges that came on my car. I prefer to run without the badging. The numbers are hard to read on some of these parts, so I could be wrong on some of them.

    [Blocked Image: http://members.tccoa.com/plankster/hipo%20top%20emblem.bmp]


    [Blocked Image: http://members.tccoa.com/plankster/hipo%20bottom%20emblem.bmp]

    289: C30B16C144A KBC 21325

    Running horse: C4ZB-16C229-B RH 30570-HI

    C4ZB-16C228-B LH 30571-H2

    Mustang script: C5ZB-16098-C 30978 H1

    The last badge is for the dealer that sold the car. It was on the left rear tail light panel and held on with similar nuts to the factory pieces.

  • New Old Stock (NOS)


    Long timer's perspective. I have been associated with antique cars and finding parts for them since 1960. I remember the Hemmings Motor New issues being just a few pages long when they arrived in the mail.


    In the old days the Antique Automobile Club of America people used these generalizations.


    Original - an original used part installed by the OEM on a vehicle, now salvaged and available in the market, a.k.a. "new car take off" in the case a dealer removed the part to put an upgrade in its place. Shelby American use to offer OEM 1965 Mustang parts for sale used like this for parts removed from Mustangs destined to become GT350s. Steve Saleen did exactly the same thing in the 1980s for his cars.


    OS – Old Stock, literally surplus old production parts that never got used. Often found in the hands of suppliers after the OEM cancelled orders. Might not even be usable as is because of poor storage conditions post production.


    NOS - New Old Stock, new parts made for or by the car OEM during the original production era. May have been surplus production parts or parts made for service. Usually “factory” parts but could have been an aftermarket supplier using original specifications. The implication was they were brand NIB (new in box) and in perfect condition.


    Service Parts – Any manufacturer’s parts that will do the job but were not OEM. A service part may or not meet original specifications. Manufacturers tried to gain market share by claiming their offering was better than OEM. Years later this became Aftermarket like nearly all speed shop parts.


    Superseded – Parts made to replace a prior version that was not required to be exactly like the “originals” they replace as long as the worked. Ford does this a lot!!!!


    NRS – New Replacement Stock, the first “reproductions”. Parts made for or buy the OEM to restock service needs after the original made in period parts were depleted. These parts may or may not be just like the “originals”. They were made to keep cars going not return them to show room floor.


    NORS - New Old Replacement Stock, NRS parts after they are no longer in production.


    Reproduction – new parts made by anybody to fit form and function of the original assembly line parts.


    Of course the problems are

    1) Anything beside Original and OS may have been made somewhat differently than “original” for a variety of reasons.

    2) Sellers on sites like ebay® tend to claim all the above versions above are “NOS”.

    3) Some “reproductions” are actually copies of non production designs because

    a. the maker didn’t know the difference

    b. the maker could not find an original to use for a pattern (there are some Cobra marked parts being sold as “reproductions” that are copies of copies)


    Edited by - rr64 on 09/27/2006 20:58:10

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Very informative post Dan. Thank you!


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Your welcome. It is a jungle out there. I bought a "NOS" C2OE oil pump on an ebay® auction that arrived in a Ford box marked C2OE but the engineering number on the pump was 1990s something. The trouble was I paid a price suitable for a 1960s vintage part. I have also has the displeasure of buying a NOS part in a blue and gray FoMoco package that turned out to be a Asian "reproduction". Apparently the seller recouped his cost for real NOS by selling me a counterfeit in the box his genuine part arrived in. In the end I was able to get part of my money back after days of messages. The phrase Buyer Beware has never been more appropriate.

  • OK, slightly off topic and I'm dating myself here but couldn't resist with all the badges talk.......


    "Badges, we don't need no stinking badges!"

    Dave
    6S1757

  • ...and then there's refurbed/remanufactured originals. They can be either worse or better than original.


    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    I'm dating myself here

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    Well, at least you know who you're going home with.<img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

  • I know about the salt. I have the rusty car to prove it. Back when my car was near mint I considered putting it on the show room floor for a while. They wouldn't be "responsible" for any damage and they wanted to keep it for a minimum of 3 months. Needless to say, my car was only on that lot once and that was in 1966.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> The high performance badge is C4ZB-16C236-A not B.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    The part was originally released with an 'A' suffix an engineering change bumped the suffix to a 'B'

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