Paxton

k code 65_old · May 21, 2010 at 8:25 PM

Hi Z Ray , thanks for info and pics , Getting back too the OE HiPo pump ,way back in 66 when Paxtons where fitted too some shelbys , do you know if the Fuel Pumps where changed at the time , i would like too stick with my Rebuilt Pump if possible as i Like the OE Look

I was wondering how the Spark Arrestor got its name , When it Looks like a Aircleaner Element .

Shane

zray · May 21, 2010 at 10:17 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

".................I was wondering how the Spark Arrestor got its name , When it Looks like a Aircleaner Element .

Shane

It differes from aircleaner element in that it's all metal mesh. I suppose a spark has a tough time mavigating thru all the layers of mesh. I think it has to pass some coast guard test to be certified. But for my purposes, one layer of mesh was plenty to diffuse the air flow. More than that was too restrictive. I'm experimenting with adding some holes in the top plate to get maximun air flow & still have some diffusing properties. If I ruin it, it only costs $ 40 to get another one.

Z.

zray · May 22, 2010 at 8:33 AM

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"................... do you know if the Fuel Pumps where changed at the time , i would like too stick with my Rebuilt Pump if possible as i Like the OE Look ............."

Shane

AFAIK, the Hi-Po fuel pump was not modified & used. I have always believed the Paxton "kit" came with a Carter fuel pump that was already modified, You might contact C. Conley at the above email address, He's would know the history better than I do.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 05/22/2010 09:21:18

round2K_old · May 22, 2010 at 11:10 AM

This is a great topic and it would be terrfic if Craig would contribute to the thread.

zray · May 22, 2010 at 11:37 PM

never seen a post by him anywhere. He is totally accessable by phone or email though, and shares information freely.

Z.

toffe_old · May 23, 2010 at 10:23 AM

Hi,

I have talked to Craig a couple of times now, and yes there is a fuelpump included in the kit.

This is the image of the kit I got from Craig.

[Blocked Image: http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8464/paxtonphotos004.jpg]

Edited by - toffe on 05/23/2010 10:25:29

zray · May 23, 2010 at 11:04 AM

I wasn't very clear with my answer to the fuel pump question. I didn't mean to infer the the kits sold today might come without a modified fuel pump. Was talking ONLY about what did, or didn't, come with the 1960's era kits. Sorry for any confusion.

Z.

Bramick_old · May 24, 2010 at 9:37 AM

Great info guys.

I have to stop looking at this thread before I buy a Paxton!

pprince · May 25, 2010 at 9:58 AM

I want one too.

It might be next winters project.

Edited by - pprince on 05/25/2010 09:58:25

toffe_old · June 7, 2010 at 7:54 AM

Together with my supercharger I have also bought 4 extra instruments.

I see that most people have this mounted under the dash, but this would cause some problems for me as I have a full length console. Any suggestion on where to mount it? I was thinking about the console lid.

Also can anyone point out if it is a good idea to connect all instruments to the middle pin of the ignition switch?

zray · June 7, 2010 at 3:29 PM

the console door might work nice. I would remove it and fabricate a plate to mount the gauges in. There are plenty of hot wires to choose from. I think I tapped into a wiper wire for the instrament lights. An inline fuse adds some safety.

what gauges (type, manufacturer, vendor) did you buy?

Z.

toffe_old · June 7, 2010 at 3:47 PM

Yes I landed on the same conclusion that the door would be the nicest location. Im not sure if Im gonna make a wooden plate and try to get the same finish as the rest of the console or make something in steel.

I ended up with Autometer gauges. Wide ratio Air/Fuel, boost/vac, fuel pressure and oil pressure.

Edited by - toffe on 06/07/2010 15:48:46

zray · June 8, 2010 at 7:26 AM

I do like the idea of having all the gauges by the same manufacturer so they match. But I couldn't find an Autometer boost only gauge in the 0 to 15 lb. range. Needle movement won't be that significant on the 0 to 30 dials. And vac/boost gauges will never be reading vac when (correctly) installed on the pressure side of the Paxton.

this is the only one I found with a 0 to 15 dial when I was looking a while back:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114500/?rtype=10

and a matching fuel pressure gauge (but no isolator included, a must that has to purchased separately):

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SWW-114373/?rtype=10

but Stewart Warner doesn't have the reputation that Autometer has, tough call...

I have heard some gauge manufactures will re-calibrate a gauge to fit an individual application, but haven't tested this theory.

Z.

Edited by - zrayrichter on 06/08/2010 08:10:10

289kford · June 8, 2010 at 10:44 AM

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the console door might work nice. I would remove it and fabricate a plate to mount the gauges in.

How about a re-working a reproduction door, about $50?

toffe_old · June 8, 2010 at 5:25 PM

I spent a good number of hours on the Internet to find some matching instruments. I know the Vac/boost gauge has a too high scale to get an accurate reading. This was mostly meant to be an indication on when there is any boost at all.

All my instruments are analog and electronic not mechanical, so I don't need an isolator.

Where do you recommend me to place the MAP sensor for the boost/vac gauge?

I have considered to start drilling in the existing door, I'm just not sure how it will look.

Ill try to see what alternatives I have and go for the existing door if the alternatives does not look good at all.

zray · June 8, 2010 at 7:44 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

I spent a good number of hours on the Internet to find some matching instruments. I know the Vac/boost gauge has a too high scale to get an accurate reading. This was mostly meant to be an indication on when there is any boost at all. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I made the same search myself, with similar results. I would consider placing the gauge so the 5 psi is at the 12:00 o'clock position. That way a quick glance just before you shift (redline) will tell you if you are at or near maximum boost, i.e. the needle should be pointing straight up.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Where do you recommend me to place the MAP sensor for the boost/vac gauge?

put a T fitting in the hose that goes from the supercharger to the fuel pump. Run a hose from the T to your MAP sensor, which you can mount where the washer pump or washer bag used to be.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

I have considered to start drilling in the existing door, I'm just not sure how it will look.

Ill try to see what alternatives I have and go for the existing door if the alternatives does not look good at all.

if you don't want to outlay the cash for a repro door, then I'd suggest a steel or aluminum plate. Have a machine shop cut out the holes for the gauges & then paint it black. Cutting up an original door may be regrettable down the road.

Z. Ray

SixT5HiPo · June 8, 2010 at 11:31 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

...I'd suggest a steel or aluminum plate. Have a machine shop cut out the holes for the gauges & then paint it black. Cutting up an original door may be regrettable down the road.

You got that right! <img src=images/icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>

toffe_old · July 19, 2010 at 5:28 PM

I have finally got the SC installed and my first impression is that it runs great, much more responsive and a lot better acceleration.

I have a couple of questions.

My AFR is 13.5 at idle, but around 11 when cruising, is this normal?

My oil pressure is appx 50 psi and the fuel pressure is appx 9, is this ok?

The kick down has stopped working. I assume this has something to do about the pressure. Any suggestions?

zray · July 19, 2010 at 9:37 PM

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I have finally got the SC installed and my first impression is that it runs great, much more responsive and a lot better acceleration.

I have a couple of questions.

My AFR is 13.5 at idle, but around 11 when cruising, is this normal?

My oil pressure is appx 50 psi and the fuel pressure is appx 9, is this ok?

The kick down has stopped working. I assume this has something to do about the pressure. Any suggestions?

in reverse order.....

1) I don't think there is an "easy way" to hook up kick down linkage to a vintage Paxton. Most carbs used for these applications don't have kick down linkage. I suppose if your carb does have kick down linkage, then you would only have to drill a hole in the enclosure for the cable.

2) oil pressure sounds OK, the fuel pressure should vary with the boost pressure. It should be 5 to 6 without boost, then cli.mb to 11 or 12 when the boost is 5 or 6 psi.

3) The idle a/f ratio is OK imho. But the cruising a/f ratio is too rich. What is your current jetting ?

Z.

toffe_old · July 20, 2010 at 5:54 AM

Hi Ray,

thanks for taking time to help here!

First of all, checked the fuel pressure now and its 8 at idle and appx 11 at full boost, so this sounds correct.

On the kickdown, this cable goes from the intake to the gearbox. Do you mean it wil help to take the pressure from the carb?

Not sure about the jetting. The carb was delivered by Craig and set up properly on his engine, but altitude and engine spcs may vary. How much lower do you reccomend to go down on the jetting?

Participate now!