Posts by cobrajeff_old

    I've had a couple Tigers. It's been a few years, but I'd be happy to try and answer some questions for you if you send me an e-mail or PM. The first thing you want to confirm is, you want to be sure it's really a Tiger, and not a converted Alpine.


    Spotted what I thought might be a Tiger for sale (driving 60 mph on a rural road in FL) last week - turned out to be a VERY rusty Sunbeam Alpine. Guy must have thought it was Tiger, though, as he had it priced like one at $3600 - I doubt it was worth $600.


    Jeff

    I have made up a C4 Governor Assembly with a secondary counterweight modified to replicate the impossible to find original HiPo C4 part. This is a used assembly, with the counterweight machined to match the appearance and weight of an original HiPo unit. This part will make your C4 shift automatically at Wide-Open-Throttle closer to 6,000 rpm (a stock, non-HiPo C4 shifts closer to 5,000 rpm at WOT).

    $110 including shipping within the USA.

    I only have two left (it's a delicate machining operation - we've destroyed more than we've saved) <img src=images/icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>


    Jeff Burgy

    cobrajeff at att . net

    I was pretty disappointed with the "K" turn-out, too. As usual, most of the cars with HiPo fender badges were "A" code cars. The Maroon convert and a blue '66 coupe were about the only ones I saw with a "K" in their VIN.

    A great show, first time I've made it out for that event. Found out where all the old little Broncos live - they're in SoCal - couldn't believe how many old Broncos were there. And Pinto Pangras! Never saw one in the flesh before, and there were about a half-dozen of them on display there.


    Jeff

    <b><i>I have seen </i></b> inside a 289 Cobra HiPo C4. The Bordinat Cobra, CSX#3001, has a 289 HiPo/C4 powertrain in it. I cleaned up and detailed the car prior to the SAAC 29 Convention in 2004. The car was "decommissioned" before Ford donated it to the museum - the intake/carb, cylinder heads, cam, distributor, crank damper, etc., had been removed. I believe the engine was a 5-bolt HiPo (5-bolt C4 bellhousings WERE available, they are SCARCE, but they ARE out there - the '64 HiPo Fairlane C4's would all have been 5-bolt blocks). The transmission was intact, including the "C" intermediate servo and the correct "1U" valve body.

    I would be reasonably sure that all of the factory 289 automatic Cobras had 5-bolt blocks, and the same HiPo C4 tranny as the '64-65 Fairlanes (except for a Mustang style floor shift).


    regards,


    Jeff


    Edited by - cobrajeff on 11/29/2009 10:41:10

    Here is what I call the exhaust reinforcement plate:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/FPR_2.jpg]


    (note the double-thickness of material toward the rear of the footwell)


    Here it is with the exhaust hanger retainer bracket (page 128 of NPD catalog) installed:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/FPR_3.jpg]


    (the bracket is the small rectangular part with two studs that protrude throught the floorpan to bolt the muffler hanger to)


    Here's a shot of a single-exhaust floorpan:


    [Blocked Image: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/data/500/FRP_1.jpg]


    (note no reinforcement plate or holes for the retainer bracket)


    regards,


    Jeff

    Been adjusting solids for nearly 40 years now. That's how I used to do mine in the old days. Worked fairly easily with a 289 HiPo, but it WAS fairly messy. First time I adjusted them on my BOSS 351, the oil shot out at EYE level! THAT was a pretty sobering experience (and right after that is when I ordered the clips for the rockers).


    Jeff

    My uncle's 64 1/2 HiPo coupe that he bought new in September, 1964, had a distributor with the oil hole in it.

    Unfortunately, even though I eventually bought the car, I cannot find any old records with the VIN number of it. It was a black coupe with a red interior. My cousin totalled it in 1969, and I bought what was left and parted it out. Sold the shell (smashed in front by a head-on collision with a truck) for $75 back in 1970.


    Jeff

    Looking at the "Mustangs Plus" website, it appears that this IS the current version of the Stam-bar sway bar https://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/product.…cat=2268&page=1.


    I have always been a proponent of heavy sway/light springs for street use. I know a number of autocrossers prefer to run without a rear bar, but, for street use, at maybe 7/10ths, I think a rear bar is a good idea. By "light springs", I mean something like stock GT350 springs (as opposed to 620# rate racing springs). The racing springs just jar your teeth on the street. They are fine for track use, but I wouldn't want them on the street.


    Never had a chance to autocross my Hertz car, but, I used to run my '65 Caliente and 6S 1206 (my first GT350) with Addco rear sway bars, and I really liked it. I liked the attachment of the Stam-Bar sway bar even better, and did not notice any deterioration of ride (unlike heavy springs) for street use. I'd go for it.


    regards,


    Jeff


    6S 285 (theft recovery turned B-J poster car)

    6S 1206 (street car turned racer)

    6S 1380 (GT 350 Tech Exchange mule)

    65 "K" vert (My Classic Car feature car)

    OK -

    If you look into my C4 Photo Gallery on the SAAC Forum website, you'll see a number of HiPo C4 pictures - http://saacforum.com/galleryc/thumbnails.php?album=119


    The valve body for a '64-66 HiPo C4 will have a "<b>1U</b>" ID tag on it. The tag will be clearly visible in the trans with the oil pan removed (unless the tranny has been serviced, and the tag tossed).


    [Blocked Image: http://saacforum.com/galleryc/albums/userpics/10041/normal_IMG_4852_%28Large%29.JPG]


    The valve body for a 1967 HiPo C4 will have an "<b>N3</b>" tag on it.


    The separator plate for the valve body has a square notch for '64-66, and a "V" notch for 1967 (like this). This notch is not visible with the valve body in the trans, the valve body would have to be removed from the transmission and flipped over (the separator plate gasket hides it from the bottom side).


    [Blocked Image: http://saacforum.com/galleryc/albums/userpics/10041/normal_IMG_4911_%28Large%29.JPG]


    The HiPo C4 Governor has a white paint stripe ID on the housing, and contains a lighweight secondary counterweight that promotes higher-rpm shifts.


    [Blocked Image: http://saacforum.com/galleryc/albums/userpics/10041/normal_IMG_5622_%28Large%29.JPG]


    Bob Mannel wrote an outstanding article about the HiPo C4 for the May-June 2007 issue of the <b>Fairlaner</b>. Sorry, but I could not find a link to it.


    regards,


    cobrajeff

    Things to look for would include:

    1. correctly coded ID tag (very rare - if it's ever been rebuilt, the tag was most likely scrapped)

    2. "C" intermediate servo piston and cover

    3. Valve body with correct ID tag

    4. HiPo governor with corrcet color marking


    The first two you can check from the outside. #3 requires removal of the pan. #4 requires removal of the tailshaft housing.


    Fairly simple (and non-destructive) for anyone used to twisting wrenches.


    regards,


    Jeff

    According to my Ford Master Parts Catalog (Final Issue, May, 1975), the "A" servo is used in the HiPo C4 in the 1967 model year (with a "C" used in 1964-66, and an "H" used in 1968).


    I am fairly confident this is true, as in the early 70's I bought a bunch of "C" servo sets, and I specifically recall selling several to a friend who had a very original '67 GT350 that had an "A" servo in it.


    The exterior tag is the first thing to go when somebody rebuilds a C4. If you are lucky, MAYBE they did not scrap the tag on the valve body. According to my research, a "Green Dot" HiPo valve body will have a "1U" tag on it (verified by several original HiPo C4's I've taken apart). A '67 HiPo C4 valve body will have a tag with "N3", "2N' or "3H" on it. If your valve body has one of these tags on it, then it is likely to be an original HiPo.


    You could also remove the tailhousing and pull the governor. The correct governor assembly will have a white paint stripe identifying mark on it, and, when you take the secondary counterweight out of it, you will see that the counterweight is "drilled" on both ends - the large AND the small diameter. Most rebuilders would not change or modify this part, so it is probably a good spot to check if your tranny is an original HiPo C4 or not.


    Jeff Speegle is correct that in many cases, rebuilders would just swap in an already rebuilt core instead of actually rebuilding your HiPo C4 - most of them didn't realize there was a difference. That's why I always stood over and WATCHED my HiPo C4's get rebuilt. He's probably also right about judges looking for a "C" servo on a '67 GT350, even though I'm pretty sure they SHOULD be looking for an "A" servo cover.


    regards,


    Jeff Burgy

    SAAC GT350 Tech Exchange Editor

    Yep, I'll be there - unless I find <i>everything</i> I want here in Pensacola this weekend <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>


    Then again - it's been around 70 here the last couple days - maybe I won't come back until Spring REALLY arrives in the frigid MidWest.


    I'll be wearing my Blue "K" Code t-shirt at the Pensacola show & riding my handicap cart - stop me & say "Hello". Always happy to meet some fellow forum members.


    regards,


    cobrajeff

    I swapped the the 3.50 in my '66 GT350 for a 3.89 many years ago, and was very pleased with the results. Even got pretty decent fuel economy with the Cobra/Carter low-rise dual quad setup.


    I also installed a Trans-Go reprogramming kit in the C4, with a '67 valve body - gave me a lot more control over the shifting.


    Jeff