65 Shelby body

  • Does anybody know the difference between a 65 sheby body and a standard k code body? I was told there are some differences one being holes drilled for the back seat. I am in the process of buying one and want to make sure it is correct. As always your help is appreciated.

  • The only thing that can prove it is the

    correlation between the Ford number

    and Shelby number. If it's a 65, GT350

    body it should have both numbers even if the

    Shelby tag is missing. When you have

    both, just call SAAC's Howard Pardee and he will

    verify either way. However, he won't give

    out any of the numbers. You must tell him and

    as said he will verify.

    /Bo

  • The upper control arms on the Shelby's were lowered one inch. If it is a Shebly there should be a second set of upper A arm holes visible from the engine bay.

  • Other things to look for would be the cowl support piece with evenly spaced holes that an original export brace would bolt to and holes where the override traction bars pass through into the passenger compartment plus the inside brackets.


    But as Bo mentioned, the first thing to do is to verify the Ford and Shelby VINs match.

    Dave
    6S1757

  • Any part of the car that is supposed to have a hole, lowered control arms, export brace etc- is easily duplicated. What is hard is correcting an area where there isn’t supposed to be a hole but one exists. The shock tower area on Mustangs not intended for export has the brackets for the cowl braces. To install the export brace, the welded on brackets would have to be cut off and the welds ground down. This is impossible to hide for a real expert. Another area is the dimples for the fold down door hinges going into the trunk area. These were drilled on all Mustangs EXCEPT Shelby’s. Once again, impossible to hide. You could weld them up, grind them down and with enough paint, maybe get away with it except for someone who really knows what to look for. Years ago, I asked Howard Pardee if a 65 Shelby could be re-bodied and be indistinguishable from real car. He told about the above things and said there were a number of other things he wouldn’t talk about. He did add “It would be virtually impossible to fool us”

  • Thank you for all the info. I did buy the car and everything you guys mentioned is correct. I also noticed that the spot for the trap door hinged is not drilled but also has a couple of bumps on the under side.

  • Congratulations on the Shelby. You will have a wonderful piece of history. Tell us more about the condition and your plans for it.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Tell us more about the car. Shelby #, condition, how you found it, etc...


    Mike

    SFM 5 017

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Mike

    I would love to see some photos of your car. Check out

    http://1965gt350mustang.com/

    Thanks

    Bill

  • not much to look at: some pix of the car sitting in the garage I found it in <owner had bubble wrap on it!>, going on the trailer, etc.

    Solid car with neat super early dated carb, cool early intake...blah, blah, blah. Missing a few items <someone PLEASE help me - look @ my wanted ad!>


    Mike

    SFM 5 017

  • The car is very clean and still has its original black california plates. It never left California. It has had one repaint from what I was told but the under carriage has never been detailed. It is a late 65. Just like Mike, I have a wish list;


    1. March or April Carburator.

    2. Gas Cap (nos if possible)

    3. Steering wheel(I do have a couple of GT500 steering whell in case somebody wants a trade, one is restored to concourse and the other is unrestored original in excellent condition.

    4. Mirror (inside and outside)

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