Posts by 41GPAWS_old

    For sale is my july 64 coupe with original door tag. It does not have a motor or tranny but the original rear end and motor mounts are still present. It is one of very few code (7) Phoenician yellow k codes built. I am asking $4000 firm. It is a nevada car and has all original panels but the driver floor will need to be replaced. Being an early car, the car has a lot of features associated to the 64.5 stangs. I do have some nos parts that I will include for the right offer. Email me at colshlby65@aol.com or call 702-768-9972 for pics.

    Up for sale is my 67 GT500. The car is 100% rust free and never had any rust. The original owner had the car parked since 1969 up until 2004. The car should be back form the shop after a rotisserie restoration in about three weeks. It is matching numbers. The car had less than 20K mile on it if I remember correctly. It is automatic lime gold. It is priced to sell at $135K. I can be reached at colshlby65@aol.com I also have a 65 shelby wheel and hub for sale for $3500.

    I don't have to sell right now, I will be moving in the next few months and I would like to sell these and not have to move them. Those interested, I've received you emails but I have a party interested in both of them if he does not come through I will send you pictures.

    My friend and I were trying to adjust the timin on my 65 stang and the distributor would not come off, what do I do. We broke the distributor at the very top in the process and the shaft is still in there, is there a tool that can be used to remove it? I've sprayed wd40 and it is still not budging.

    Thank you for the help guys. I remove the switch and replaced it and the lights work now. It took me an hour trying to remove the switch until I googled how to remove it and found out that it was very simple. Lesson leaned.

    My head lights have been working just fine for the last six months and last night they went out while I was on the road, I thought they needed to be replaced so I did not but they are still not working, what should I check for?


    Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 02/16/2009 00:00:32

    Fron 10 feet away the paint is not too bad as the car has been in the hands of a collector for many years. After years of buffing, it is very thin in many places(edge of quarter panels, hood, fenders etc.). The guy I bought it from said he has avoided washing the car just to preserve what little quality is left in the paint. I plan on driving it as is.

    Thank you for all the help guys. By the way Z. Ray after receiveing pictures of your unrestored 66 shelby, I got hooked on unrestored cars now. I just got lucky and bought a nice unrestored original paint 65 shelby. I will send you some pics when I have the car in my posession.

    Thank you guys. I contacted red line and they told me that wetter water will part of the solution and will reduce the water temp. That is interesting reading. What is the capacity of the cooling system of the mustang? I am going to try the recomendation of red line and see if two identical cars run differently. I'll keep you guys posted. I was also thinking of replacing my original radiator with an aluminum one is there a reputable one out there that I should consider?

    I did get your tranny from Paul on a trade but that is not the one I was selling. the tranny is now gone. You are right that tranny is very clean. I still have it but it is not for sale. I still have one oil pan left and two shelby steering wheels. One for a cobra or early 65 shelby and the other for a late 65 shelby.