heater core removing

Bad news, but I think you need to remove the

complete heater box.

/Bo

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

Bad news, but I think you need to remove the

complete heater box.

/Bo

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

No truer words spoken. You can remove the heater cover while installed but getting it back on is next to impossible.

The best way is to cut the hoses in the engine compartment and make a heater elimination loop, undo the four nuts around the blower then do the inside stuff.

There are three control cables that need to slide off the control arms, one on the defroster deflector in the middle and the two on the box itself. There is one 14-14 x 1 1/2 hex head sheet metal type screw in the upper right hand side of the box that attaches it to the dash. It's to the right of the glove box liner. Be careful in removal as the defroster deflector (aka plenum) is made of cardboard.

I assume that the core leaks. I recomend as long as you are there to replace the hoses and get a gasket set to rebuild the insides. Forty two plus years takes its toll.

Jim

Once you have everything disconnected it will have to come back to clear the studs on the blower motor then down. The large round foam gasket that connects the cowl to the top right corner of the box may stick if it's really old.

I just did this on my 65 Shelby. Put the original

date coded back into the car. It's a very straight

forward job if you have removed the passenger side front seat.

As said in an earlier post, be very careful with the

cardboard plenum. It must be mounted on the heater unit and

installed as a unit.

Good luck,

/Bo

The heater motor and squirriel cage are mounted to the heater casing via four nuts.Once the casing is out of the car on a bench,seperate the case ,remove the four nuts that hold the motor to the case and it will lift out . No real problem once you get the case on the bench. If you have a center consol it will make it a little harder getting to th plenum. the motor will be reinsalled as a unit within the case, the four studs should line up with no problem. Another pair of hands on the outside to guide them will help. Good luck...

Joe A...

my son and i replaced his heater core last night.

we had a good time and learned a lot.

this thread was quite helpful.

a couple of comments tho:

all the rubber seals were either gone

or crumbled to dust!!

be sure to let the trim adhesive get tacky

on both surfaces before you apply the rubber pieces.

trial clamp everything together to ensure good fit

before installing the little metal clips

we had to adjust the largest vent door

as we could see where it had rubbed a dime sized

hole in the fiberglass; bet this drove s.o. crazy!

REMEMBER to put in the large fresh air vent rubber!!

we forgot and had to remove the unit from the firewall!!

as the fan motor worked fine, we did not change

the seals between it and the 'squirrel' cage

and.....it seems like the casting nuts are pretty

flimsy to be holding the heater unit up to the firewall?

but......i guess between them and the core hoses

and the other hook ups, it is secure enough!

now to check the motor switch etc.

it is nice to be helping my son do his C code stang

as it will really help when i go to do the K code!!

thanks

iowa

I just rebuilt a heater core in a 67 vert last week. It's a pretty cool car. It's a 67 390/4speed car, brittany blue and white top. The heater box needed the whole rebuild kit put in it and it's working great now. I used some fiberglass to patch up one area that was broke an you can't even tell after I painted it.

i agree

these fiberglass boxes are easy to repair

iowa