Exhaust manifold locks?

6hypo5conv_old · November 15, 2009 at 10:45 AM

The reproduction exhaust manifold locks on my engine are just starting to rust a bit, how should I deal with this? get new ones and have them coated with something that will stand the heat and not rust? or car I do something with them on the engine?

bigal_old · November 15, 2009 at 4:59 PM

Your going to have to get a professional exhaust manifold man for that one. some oil and steel wool will clean them up just fine. If you try to take them off they are a real pita, you have to drop the whole exhaust and then drop the manifolds.

6hypo5conv_old · November 16, 2009 at 6:40 AM

Just to be clear I am speaking about the LOCK TABS rusting NOT THE MANIFOLDS themselves.

Thanks for the suggestion of the oil & steel wool........I guess you mean that I can use this method for the locks?

dunc289_old · November 16, 2009 at 8:48 AM

I for one would think so, they are steel....but bending back and forth will be problematic at some point...a lot of work, maybe you can clean them in place with a dremel type tool...<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

CharlesTurner · November 16, 2009 at 9:45 AM

The lock tabs and fasteners would have received some engine color over spray when painted. Also, have observed some original tabs appearing to have been dipped in black paint before they were installed.

bigal_old · November 16, 2009 at 6:27 PM

The manifold locks and tabs in order to get them off of the engine you have to drop the manifolds. the bolts don't come out unless you do that

6hypo5conv_old · November 16, 2009 at 7:02 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

The manifold locks and tabs in order to get them off of the engine you have to drop the manifolds. the bolts don't come out unless you do that

OK, I stand corrected then.....I thought it would be a fairly simple procedure (If I wanted to just replace the locks) to bend the tabs flat & away from the bolt heads so I could put a wrench/socket on the bolt heads and remove the bolts THEN remove the locks....there must be some part of the locks that are under the manifolds then that I am not seeing...

BTW: I like Charles' suggestion that some were apparently dipped in black paint prior to installing them....may be I can get a new set powder coated in a high heat black to look the same.....

jwc66k · November 16, 2009 at 7:38 PM

Remember that after you powder coat the locks, you must bend the tabs to provide the "lock". A powder coated bend will most likely break the powder coat's surface and you will be no better off. If you think a presertative is necessary, paint the lock with some silver high temp (900-1200 F) paint. Extra "locks" are available at AMK in two or eight packs.

Jim

6hypo5conv_old · November 17, 2009 at 5:57 AM

Good point jwc: I'm thinking that the black high temp paint would be better though.....I wonder what the factory used to dip some of those locks as Charles mentioned?

CharlesTurner · November 17, 2009 at 8:31 AM

It was probably just a regular enamel.

dunc289_old · November 17, 2009 at 8:33 AM

you might consider carefully painting the tabs black AFTER you bend them....<img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

6hypo5conv_old · November 17, 2009 at 8:46 AM

Charles, When you say regular emamal-would it be a semi-gloss or gloss finish? and would I be ok in removing the locks and cleaning them up well and painting them with a high heat spray? would you recomend a good heavy coat to try & make them look as if they were dipped or just a light coat to make them look like they were just misted as the engine was painted?

jwc66k · November 17, 2009 at 11:02 AM

After you run the car for 5 or 10 minutes, it won't make a difference wheather the paint on the locks was gloss, semi-gloss or flat.

Jim.

C6ZZKGT · November 17, 2009 at 11:29 AM Official Post

Rick, What BIGAL is referring to is the lack of clearance at the shock tower to remove some of the bolts without moving the exhaust manifolds. This would especially apply on the right hand side long bolts.

-Fred-

bigal_old · November 17, 2009 at 9:18 PM

Mr Rick,

The easiest fix is to take some metal prep purchased from an autobody store, oil and steel wool clean them up spray some T9 on them and good to go. on first startup after T9 is applied it smells really bad but its propably the best metal preservative out their!

Edited by - bigal on 11/17/2009 21:21:03

6hypo5conv_old · November 19, 2009 at 6:37 PM

Thanks! any idea where I can get the T9? is there more name involved to ask for?

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