minor underhood details

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

One other thing... I have an old repro fan shroud without the rubber pad. I've read the numerous previous posts about it. Is there someplace to get the staples and/or the pad, or should I just get the newer correct repro?

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

I just swapped in a correct date coded radiator and decided to add the rubber pad to the Ford service replacement shroud at the same time while things were apart. I got staples that look pretty close at a hardware store and a chunk of correct thickness sheet rubber at a shoe repair place. For about $4 I think it looks at least as good as the repops.

Believe you will find the flat high temp black way to flat for your purpose. Better shooting it IMHO with a quality semi-gloss black like Krylon (like semi-flat) with a thin coat. If you can you might choose (something I do on many spray pieces) to back the parts after that have dried a little

Hope this helps a little

Edited by - J_Speegle on 07/30/2007 16:41:18

I usually blast parts like that, followed with 320 grit sanding, a nice coat of epoxy primer and then a semi-gloss topcoat.

I usually make the little rubber pad out of the center section of a truck mudflap. The center parts are the correct thickness while the outside is thicker and makes a "frame" that surrounds the center. Any place that works in medium or heavy duty trucks will have these in the junk, and one mudflap will make enough of those little squares to supply you and all of the members of your Mustang club. The staples that work for me are stainless and available at most large builder supply stores. The "legs" are normally bent out rather than in like a conventional paper staple. I drill two tiny holes for each staple in the shroud and the rubber while they are clamped together, than push the staple through and bend the legs outward to duplicate the ford issue shroud. Look at an old shroud if you can locate one and you can get an idea of the construction details and placement. Better yet, someone on here may post an image of the real thing!

The recomended is 20 to 40 percent gloss black, which equates to either satin black or semi-gloss black. Keep in mind that certain parts were dipped and hung to dry, mostly brackets, while others were sprayed. On pulleys, after I bead blast them, I wrap masking tape around the groves several times, then spray. This is close to the 'rubber band' mask Ford used and looks original when installed.

Jim

<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Rust-Oleum has a satin black, product # 7777 which seems an excellent match to the factorys' black. I'm using it on a mach-1 I'm currenty working. Worth a look-see I believe.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>

[Blocked Image: http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid157/p4f8ee1bd214d6f407a7e7df72a842ee9/f5253efc.jpg]

I'll be at the Muscle Car classic on Sunday. Come by and look at mine and we can share notes on paint and finishes. She's come a long way since you've last seen her!

[Blocked Image: http://www.customshowboards.com/kcode/0000.jpg]

Right off of 169 and 55 at that large office building with the huge windows that look like mirrors in the sky!