Gene,
I think that set was on eBay before as an original set, and the guy had to retract saying that he had discovered they were repo's and understood if folks wanted to decline their bids. I think he relisted them. The thing that sticks out in my mind was that he couldn't spell 'exhaust' either time!
Brad
Here's another set SOLD for $305.00
DESCRIPTION: 1967 HiPo 289 Exhaust Manifolds. Left part # C30E-9431-B. Right part # C7ZE-9430-A.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/…item=2415646323
[Blocked Image: http://www.hipomustang.com/cgi-bin/parts/exhmanifold1052203.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://www.hipomustang.com/cgi-bin/parts/exhmanifold2052203.jpg]
[Blocked Image: http://www.hipomustang.com/cgi-bin/parts/exhmanifold3052203.jpg]
Another set of original used manifolds SOLD for $228.19
DESCRIPTION:
This auction is for a pair of Ford Mustang HiPo Exhaust Manifolds. They should fit 1964-66 Mustang with 289. These will fit a 302 also. They are both in very good condition – they have been bead blasted so I could check for cracks. No cracks or other issues with these manifolds. They have the original date codes and original Ford Part number:
C3OE-9431-B
C4ZE-9430-A
Sorry, no pictures are available because the seller pulled them right after his auction ended.
i may need a set. the ones on both my cars are rusty, and i don't know if they'll need to be replaced. anyone know anybody who has a pair?
The cast iron manifold always get rusty with normal use...I wouldn't worry about it unless you want a concours-looking exhaust. There are manifold "dressings" that will give them a natural, gray look and won't burn off like paint often does. It is applied like tire dressing using a brush-like applicator, and needs touch ups after a while...The main problem that can happen to the cast iron is stress cracking, which is often the result of loosened or incorrectly torqued bolts.
I would like a set of good originals to. I have repos on my car and I have to put the spark plug in the cylinder and palce a sparkplug socket on the front and rear plug, then tighten the manifold to the head in order to remove the plug later on. Very tight between the plug,socket,and the manifold. Anyone else have this problem with repops. Maybe a set of Try-ys instead....Billy
That's normal.
That is an incorrect set for a '67 K-Code. Both sides should have the "C7" Casting Number. Remember the '67 cars were wider and the manifolds were different to accomodate that exhaust system.
billy, i had tri-y headers on my red mustang, and let me tell you i don't like them much. here's why:
(1) they didn't fit correctly. i had to elongate a couple bolt holes on each side to make them fit my heads.
(2) they didn't fit correctly. the steering arm hit the driver's side header. my fix for this was to turn the wheel into them over and over again with the car jacked up, which created a dent and affected airflow (whether this creates a perceptible change in performance, i dunno).
---
now i use hedman long tubes. they breathe great, but here's the problem with them:
ground clearance. ground what? my mustang, with the 1.25" lowering in front and 1" lowering in back, comes within 4" of the ground at the collector plate. check it: i can't get a trouble light between the pipe and the ground, so the lowest part of the collector plate is even lower. i dare say my car may not even be street legal because of this. and you can imagine going over speed bumps.. er.. i mean PUSHING MYSELF over them with the rear tires.
=-]
~ dan ~
I have the same problems with my Tri-Ys. The other thing to look out for is where the steel plate bolts to the head. There are a couple tight spots for getting a socket on the spark plugs. The solution was to mark the spots and then remove the header and start grinding metal. As I recall, it was maybe 3 plugs that needed more clearance and about 30 minutes with a grinding stone took care of the problem. Then it was off to have the headers coated.
I haven't had any of the above troubles with my tri-y's. No issues with removing spark plugs or with clearance to the steering linkage. The only close area is with the clutch z-bar, but as long as it floats on the bushings it is not a problem. I guess they're not all created equal. I used Doug's Headers, ceramic coated. Pricey, but it sounds like I avoided a couple of issues.
I haven't had any of the above troubles with my tri-y's. No issues with removing spark plugs or with clearance to the steering linkage. The only close area is with the clutch z-bar, but as long as it floats on the bushings it is not a problem. I guess they're not all created equal. I used Doug's Headers, ceramic coated. Pricey, but it sounds like I avoided a couple of issues.
I forgot to mention, I've had mine on the car for about 20 years. Sounds like somebody cleaned up the clearance issues. 
Practice makes perfect I guess.
I would like a set of good originals to. I have repos on my car and I have to put the spark plug in the cylinder and palce a sparkplug socket on the front and rear plug, then tighten the manifold to the head in order to remove the plug later on. Very tight between the plug,socket,and the manifold. Anyone else have this problem with repops. Maybe a set of Try-ys instead....Billy
Billy I had that problem with my exhaust manifolds, all it took to fix was lossen the manifolds pull up to the highest point and tighten the bolts. It worked for me.
Richard P.
steve, mike,
it's not that someone cleaned up the clearance issues. check it; there are two major manufacturers of the tri-y header. one is foreign and one is american. sadly, i forget which way this goes. one of them is a near-to-spec reproduction of the dead-on-spec original style tri-y. you can tell the difference because on the driver's side of the car the correct ones will miss the steering arm on all but power steering equipped cars. i'm assuming your ceramic coated tri y headers are the correct original spec headers, since i personally wouldn't spend the money on ceramic headers that didn't fit right and required extra bends and dents.
so essentially, it's the same deal as the OEM exact repro vs. aftermarket repro fender issue: the curve just doesn't quite fit right on the cheaper part. this isn't likely to change any time soon anyway.
~ dan ~
steve, mike,
it's not that someone cleaned up the clearance issues. check it; there are two major manufacturers of the tri-y header. one is foreign and one is american. sadly, i forget which way this goes. one of them is a near-to-spec reproduction of the dead-on-spec original style tri-y. you can tell the difference because on the driver's side of the car the correct ones will miss the steering arm on all but power steering equipped cars. i'm assuming your ceramic coated tri y headers are the correct original spec headers, since i personally wouldn't spend the money on ceramic headers that didn't fit right and required extra bends and dents.
so essentially, it's the same deal as the OEM exact repro vs. aftermarket repro fender issue: the curve just doesn't quite fit right on the cheaper part. this isn't likely to change any time soon anyway.
~ dan ~
Dan,
I picked mine up at Mustangs Unlimited in the early 80's and have no idea who made them. Mustangs Unlimited went down a path of selling low quality made in China parts back then, so who knows where the headers came from. They came painted black and I had them alumicoated for $75.00 which has held up extremely well.
Don't agree. You're kind of lumping all companies into the same bunch as you found. As with many things, you get what you pay for. There may be a couple of companies making the majority of the tri-y's, but not all. Doug Thorley has been in the business of designing and making headers since the 50's. They tweak their designs for better fit all the time. As far as manufacturing facilities, there may be two. I don't know and I don't care. The good companies will provide their specific, tested design and hold the supplier to that design and quality.
mph65K...
CLAP!CLAP!CLAP!Br-avo.Br-avo.
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