Hipo exhaust manifold lock tabs

  • No. Because of the difference in boss heights, they are different. The lower boss height is close to the standard manifold, but the taller boss is about 1/4" taller on the HiPo than the standard manifold. So, the locking tabs for the HiPo have a larger spread.

  • Today I removed successfully a set of bolts and the locking tab from 1 exhaust port, I need to know what the correct bolts look like on the heads:the ones that I removed are common hardware store looking grade 5 bolts, and there was also a thicker than normal flat washer between the lock tab and the manifold itself.....does all this sound right?? (I've got a new set coming from our friend Brant at VA Mustang)


    Also: I am thinking about having the new tabs powdercoated black to try & duplicate the factory "dipped" look that Charles says has been observed on original examples......anyone done this? should I have my powdercoater be a bit sloppy with these to mimick the "dipped" look??

  • The manifold bolts typically have an 'F' in the middle. AMK sells the kit with the washers.


    You probably would want ceramic coating if you decide to go that route. Although, I confess that I don't completely know the difference between powder coat and ceramic coat.

  • Powder coat is a dry polymer compound that uses fillers for effects (wrinkle, gold inset, etc) and is good to about 600F. Ceramic coat is the same but uses a ceramic based polymer filler for a higher temp rating. It is available in either a 900F or 1200F range. Both types are sprayed onto the parts that have an electrical charge placed on them so the sprayed powder sticks. Then the whole thing is baked. The nice thing is that the curing temp is considerbly less than the working temp. The clear ceramic is being reformulated as it had an adhering to the base ceramic problem.

    Jim

  • FWIW I had my Tri-Y headers treated with a "high heat" powder coat and was disappointed as the durability didn't seem any better than high temp paint. Later had them ceramic coated and have been very impressed with the results.

    Dave
    6S1757

  • You will have to bend the tabs after installation, so probably having them coated with anything is worthless and will break the coating when the tabs are bent. BBQ grille paint is probably as good a coating as you can get on the locking straps. I usually do mine with the engine on the stand and put a thin wall Snap On socket over the bolt heads and bend the tabs against the outer wall of the socket rather than against the head of the bolt in case you ever want to remove the manifolds. This way you will be able to paint the tabs after they are bent and install them without any bending and still tighten the bolts. I also have had good luck with the silicone gasket maker for exhaust manifolds (think it is a copper color normally) and have never had a leak. Just a thin bead about 1/16 inch around each flange near the center of each hole seems to work and helps if you plan to drive and enjoy your car.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    You will have to bend the tabs after installation, so probably having them coated with anything is worthless and will break the coating when the tabs are bent. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>

    Conventional wisdom dictates that concept, however - my powder coating guy told me of a VW owner that had his fenders powder coated (I said - 'what?'), and then tested their "durability" in a fender bender (whose fault was not mentioned). The powder coating was like a willow - bending in the wind - in other words, the powder coating survived, the fender did not. I can't answer for ceramic coating however.

    Jim

  • Guys, Thanks for all the info and suggestions! I think I'll talk to my powdercoater and see what he thinks as far as durability goes-he also does manifolds with something else-may be its ceramic coating-may be he can use it on the locking tabs.


    On the bolts I'm questioning-they DO have an "F" in the middle of the head and also the 3 hash marks for grade 5, but I remember THE originals that I personally removed being different than these, so I'll look for them and compaire.

  • I replaced my original Oct 65 build "K" exhaust manifold bolts and locking tabs last month and, except for the 45 years of pitted bolt heads, the AMK supplied items are identical, Grade 5 "F" head.

    Jim

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    I replaced my original Oct 65 build "K" exhaust manifold bolts and locking tabs last month and, except for the 45 years of pitted bolt heads, the AMK supplied items are identical, Grade 5 "F" head.

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Thanks, this helps!! I know some of the later ('66??) had the ramp-lok fasteners instead of the bolts and locking tabs like ours do...mine is July 1965 Dearborn built....

  • To those of you that are using the correct bolts and locking tabs how are you finishing them for appearance and durability?

    This "dipped" appearance has me thinking about how to re-create that finish and still have them (tabs) hold up in the long run.....

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    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    While we are on the subject of AMK hardware I was under the impression that they HAD done alot of research on all the hardware before they began manufacturing it to make sure of correct sizes and finishes and I have heard only recently that the AMK stuff is not all 100% correct, if this is true why did they seemingly take all the time they did and not achieve 100% correctness? I am puzzled, very puzzled!!

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    While we are on the subject of AMK hardware I was under the impression that they HAD done alot of research on all the hardware before they began manufacturing it to make sure of correct sizes and finishes and I have heard only recently that the AMK stuff is not all 100% correct, if this is true why did they seemingly take all the time they did and not achieve 100% correctness? I am puzzled, very puzzled!!

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    If they were exact they would have to pay royalties to the original manufactures, so if its changed just a bit no royalty

  • Part of the problem faced by AMK is that Ford changed some of the hardware to a common type for all years as a service part. An example, the threads on most 64 to 66 oval head trim screws is "fine", 8-15, 10-12, etc, while the replacement hardware is "coarse", 8-18, 10-16, etc, which is what was used on the assembly line from 1968 on.

    Also many head markings used on bolts are not available as they are trademarked from suppliers that are out of business and the current holder of their title will not allow their propritary ID to be used.

    Then there is the little matter of quantity. Pal-Tinerman is willing to make new 5/16-18 rectangle nut clips like the type used on 64-66 hardtop and convertible quarter windows, 64-66 front valences and 64-66 front bumper guards if you want to buy a lot of half a million.

    And one more item as an example: there were only about 117,000 1965 and 1966 Fastbacks made by Ford and each one had a spring nut (380264-S2) retaining the trunk lid torsion bar on the RH side. Early 67 Fastbacks with the trunk lid torsion bar also used this spring nut. Originals were made by Pal. It is currently not available. Same situation, you want to buy 500,000 they will make them.

    AMK has made a lot of deals with hardware suppliers but the laws of supply and demand dictate what is practical.

    Jim

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Thanks Jim! I guess the exhaust bolt/lock sets are pretty much correct in make-up and finish, I guess the ones that were put on my engine were neither.


    I do understand only too well about Royalties on AMK's part, I guess some of the fasteners they make are royalty paid and some aren't-they sure do make some great quality stuff to me, and they have pictures of the various markings on bolt heads right on their website.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    AMK bolts and tabs are supplied with the correct finish. If you want to do your own, use the Eastwood Phosphate kit.

    Jim

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Jim & All: I just got a brand new AMK Exhaust manifold bolt/lock kit (#F-556)(AMK) have not even opened it yet, the bolts and washers look like a grayish phosphate finish, the tabs themselves look to be just plain naked steel-untreated, this is what I basicly have now that has started to oxidise/rust, Charles has said that original examples have been seen with what looks like a Black dipped-looking finish on these tabs.....if I'm going to change these things out I really want to get them right and not have any further questions about their appearance later on down the road.

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