Help removing the parkbrake handle

  • Hi all.


    My park brake handle needs to be replaced. I've got a new one that comes with a grub screw and a pin. Can someone tell me how to remove the one that's on at the moment? Is it just a matter of pushing the pin through the original handle and then pulling the handle off, or is it more involved?


    It would be nice if these parts came with instructions on the packaging.


    Thanks.


    RP


    Edited by - SixT5HiPo on 01/13/2007 00:53:31

  • Hi Rene,

    Before you remove your original, please check

    the new one you got. Some of the replacements

    I seen has the hole for the pin drilled at the wrong side

    and you will have to drill one yourself in the correct place.

    Just a tip.

    /Bo

  • Rene, Bo is right, when my original one broke I replaced it with a repop and the hole was on the wrong side. I also have a NOS one that doesn't have any hole drilled. Dave

    Dave
    6S1757

  • Hi Guys.


    Thanks for the tips. The one I have has the hole on the correct side. The one I'm trying to get out is a real stubborn bugger. Nothing I tried could get the pin to move. I didn't want to hit it too hard with a hammer and nail for fear of bending the park brake shaft or worse. So far I've drilled away the plastic around the pin, sprayed WD40 on the pin and used a pair of pliers and hit that with a hammer. It has finally started to move, but it's not all the way through yet. I'll give it another try today. I must say, that is one really crappy design. So typical of the 60's, no fore thought <img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>


    René

  • Hi Rene,

    I feel for you trying to get the old handle off

    but if it can give you any comfort, most of us has

    gone through the same thing. A pain in the.....

    Good luck and don't invent any new words close

    to any children.

    /Bo

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    So rene who did you buy your handle thru since the hole is in the right place?

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Hi Robert.


    I was wrong,it did have the hole on the wrong side. It was a Scott Drake handle.


    Did later Mustangs have the hole on the other side? I noticed when the old handle finally came off, there was a hole on both sides of the shaft.


    Regards,


    RP

  • I recently bought one from Virginia Mustang with the hole in the proper location. I think it was also a Scott Drake handle. I decided to replace the repop that snapped off in my hand with an NOS one so I'm not going to use it.

    Dave
    6S1757

  • I replaced mine..hole also on wrong side from Mustangs Unlimited. Thoughtit would be a quick easy job. A TOTAL pain in the butt! Got to wonder what these engineers were thinking when they designed this. I would have had the handle screw on with a lock nut to secure it. Simple on...simple off........ET

  • I replaced mine last fall with a VA Mustang supplied Scott Drake handle. Hole was on the wrong side. I sent it back for another, same problem. Since I needed to get it ready for a local AACA show, I drilled a new hole in the correct spot and filled the other hole with J-B Weld. A touch-up with gloss black paint looked really good. I had planned on replacing the handle with a correctly drilled hole later, but the touch-up is impossible to see.

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Got to wonder what these engineers were thinking when they designed this. I would have had the handle screw on with a lock nut to secure it. Simple on...simple off........ET

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    I guess there are several ways to design a fastening method for the brake handle. The drive pin was probably chosen because it prevents any chance of the handle rotating loose. Since you must twist the handle to release it, a screw on design can be more likely to loosen up over time, and the engineers wanted to maintain a positive attachment method that would hold up for a "lifetime" of service. Back then, average "lifetime" of a car was probably considered around ten years or less, and no one figured we would be fussing over difficulties removing the pin for restoration 40+ years later.

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