paint daub paint

    I usually don't go on VMF, but did some digging through old posts there. One post mentioned using Testors paint for detail markings and then spraying them with a satin clear to preserve them.


    Are there "typical" paint colors or mixes that people use for these markings, and do most people use Testors?


    I hadn't planned on doing ANY detailing, but I'm slowly creeping in that direction on my non-show driver just for authenticity.

    As I mentioned over there I use Testors and other paints (Rustoleum and other hobby color) to mix and tone the colors to what I need. I've found very few of the Testors right out of the bottle, that will work for me. Add that to the fact that I do a fair share of the marks and the little hobby bottle are nor enough and cost more in the long run. Also remember that a certain amount of the marks (depending on what factory and years we're looking at) are done with spray or permanent crayon. And no I've never cleared over any of the marks. Done right they will last long enough


    One word of caution don't waste your time on things like paint marks until you've got everything else done. These details will only make incorrect items stand out more. We see allot of people throwing these on lately - from people building clones to cars they are planning to sell (hoping to influence a possible buyer )


    Also don't just start throwing on marks that you have seen at a show, in a magazine or they are in the assembly manual. Way too many variablies to be sure that the car your taking them from was built at the same time, plant, same shift and with the same options as yours. how will you feel if they are wrong and someone else copies them thinking they are right.

    All good points! I don't intend to do much detailing, in fact I originally wasn't going to do any. Here's how I plan to approach it:


    1. I will duplicate markings that I do find, after photographing them. No brainer.

    2. I will not do any Markal/crayon markings that I do not find. That would be faking/fabricating for no purpose. My car is undercoated, so unless I remove that, I won't have the shift markings on the outside of the front frame rails.

    3. I might add a VERY limited number of paint markings for things like torqued nuts, if I can find reason to believe that "all" cars from that timeframe/factory had them. I'm not making a show car nor making a sale, so I don't have motivation to fake a painted pony. This would include getting opinions from yourself and Charles and other experienced folk.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>


    Also don't just start throwing on marks that you have seen at a show, in a magazine or they are in the assembly manual. Way too many variablies to be sure that the car your taking them from was built at the same time, plant, same shift and with the same options as yours. how will you feel if they are wrong and someone else copies them thinking they are right.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    That's a great point...I'd guess there are lots of "copy cats" out there who are doing just that, whether it's correct or not.

    Along this line of discussion, are there any tricks to bringing out the old markings, such as special lighting, chemicals etc?


    Most of the underside of my car is either rusty, oily, or undercoated. I've had some luck so far, but anything that would help me find the original markings would be great. I don't want to take the parts anywhere for special treatment, since this is just a driver car.

    Any tips.... well there are some but the problem is, is that you get one shot at some of these. So you have to work quick and have a camera handy.


    A few things people have had success with ... but of course first you need to know where to look


    1- Some have found that a coat of oven cleaner will strip the paint (while preparing to restore a part) but it can make a mark stand out more and bring the color out of what remains as the spot expands and dissolves. This seems to work where the mark was over a painted surface


    2- Where the mark was over bare metal media blasting the area seems to produce some good results.


    3- Where you have a collection (read drip or run) of paint from a mark. Always cut through it or sand the outer surface to remove the results of the elements and wear to see the original color (wet is s little with a little oil helps also)


    4- With some be very careful with cleaners because some can be removed (crayon and ink marks) by simply wiping them with a cotton cloth.


    5- Finally take pictures and look at them on the computer. I;m finding that for what ever reason I can sometimes see in the pictures marks that were not visible in person. Rare but I have one last wee this way. Really surprised me.... and I need to return to see how dramtic the difference may be


    Hope this helps

    For finding marks on bolt-on parts like suspension pieces, cleaning with mineral spirits in a parts washer will yield nice results. I find lots of original markings like this, usually paint daubs and inspection marks.


    If you know where to look on the car for markings, you can use a small bucket with mineral spirits and a light brush to clean those areas. Mineral spirits will dissolve undercoating, but it takes a while.

    Jeff & Charles,


    Like probably many people here, I wish you could have you in my garage for a day. At least we have the power of the internet!


    I'll try mineral spirits. I'm really hoping that there is something left under the dusty rust layer on my car. What I fear is that in cleaning the rust off, I will destroy marking remnants.


    I do know that some things are still under the undercoating, as I just discovered a yellow daub at the fuel line clamp/bracket on the outside of the driver's-side fender apron. In fact, I suspect that is where the drip in the middle of my strut rod came from.


    Thanks for all your help to me & others. I may have to join MCA soon.


    Lyle

    You mean I've been giving advice to a non-MCA member?! tsk tsk! <img src=images/icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=images/icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>


    The MCA has a new website under development right now, it's going to be a huge improvement!

    I especially like the idea of reference photos being available to everyone. Lots of people take photos, but unless someone asks a question, nobody else gets to see them.


    Yeah, my attitued about MCA in the past was, "Who the #$@% are they to have any opinion or say about MY car?" But now I see an advantage from information sharing. As far as I know, there is only one MCA-affiliated club here in MN, and it is way up north in Duluth. I'm not inclined to drive more than an hour to go to national events, so it is good that I like Duluth.

    The new website, in combination with Mustang Times will well be worth the cost of the yearly membership with MCA. And with the website, you'll have a venue to communicate with other MCA members and reap the benefits without ever actually having to attend an event, locally or nationally. There are some exciting things in store for MCA in the near future.

    Sorry! I'm a bit late to this thread but I have some related comments.


    On pages 164-166 of Tony Gregory's 4th Ed. are very detailed, verbal descriptions of "Paint Daubs" on various 64 1/2 thru 66 HiPo parts.

    Unfortunately, there aren't enough photos to aid in identifying how these marks were actually applied, their color shade, direction of stripes, size of "daub", brushed-on or sprayed-on, etc., etc.


    Without a visual reference for each daub or stripe it is, in my opinion, impossible to accurately duplicate what came out of the (three different) factories. I'd assume some parts such as coil and leaf springs would have specific markings to denote loading rates and for part matching purposes but the rest could vary greatly with each individual assembly-line worker. I've even talked to a pro Mustang restorer who found very explicit graffiti grease penciled on a body panel. I didn't ask him if he reproduced it in the restoration.


    It certainly would be nice if there were a reliable source that has complete visual as well as verbal descriptions of daubs and stripes but common sense says there is not and probably never will be. In the meantime, good luck and happy daubing and striping!


    Bill


    PS: I,m making every effort to duplicate only the actual marks found pre-resto and nothing more - do judges really look at all these things?

    Kliz Your so right. People hear or read about a mark then with no real reference to other cars from the same plant and time attempt to reproduce it Same goes with so much on these cars and much of what we see in print can be very misleading. For example this month’s Muscle car magazine again repeats (for lack of a better term) an old wife's tale about the “K” and the “D” found on many 67 San Jose built GT350's. The explanation is completely wrong and someone reading the article will likely make the mistake of reproducing it on a different car. HINT – they have nothing to do with something referred as “knock down”


    IMHO that is the power and value of forums like this one. Information can be shared and publicly reviewed based on the current and best available knowledge.


    And yes (as Charles said certain classes and organizations) judges can and do deduct points for improperly marked parts

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Don't leave us/me hanging, what does the "K" and the "D" stand for? Plenty of examples of "6/D" and "S/D" for this and the years before and after.


    Just one of those pet peeves

    This is no more than just an observation over the last thirty years of fooling with Mustangs, it may only be by chance that this happened, BUT here is my suspicion: the "K" obviously mmeans the 271 motor, no argument there. I have seen quite a few with the K/D on the drivers side outer engine compartment, usually just about directly on the other side of the washer bag location on the 65 -66 Mustangs. Without exception all of the cars with the "D" had disc brakes. I had an "A" code San Jose GT coupe that had only the "D" written opposite of the washer bag in fact. I have always suspected that the "D" simply indicated to the assembly guys that the vehicle was to get disc brakes. My "K" fastback (Dearborn) had the "K/D" in grease pencil , and looking at many photos of shelby restorations - before and after the resto this same marking appears. Is this for sure? I have no idea, just wanted to throw this concept out to you guys and see what develops. If you have images of the K/D on an original car without disc brakes then obviously this theory has holes in it. So dig out your old photos and prove that you have had these markings on a drum brake car and we will continue to search for the real meaning of the K/D. I agree 100% with Jeff about the fact that it in no way indicates "knock down". That appeared in MM years ago in an article written by Jerry Heasley about a Shelby that had been done by Bob Perkins and has somehow become an "urban legend". Many knew at the time of publication that this was false but no one ever publically disputed the article.

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    I agree 100% with Jeff about the fact that it in no way indicates "knock down". That appeared in MM years ago in an article written by Jerry Heasley about a Shelby that had been done by Bob Perkins and has somehow become an "urban legend". Many knew at the time of publication that this was false but no one ever publically disputed the article.

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    It's hard to dispute the likes of Jerry Heasley and Bob Perkins, even if further research sheds new light on the subject. <img src=images/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

    <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    IMHO that is the power and value of forums like this one. Information can be shared and publicly reviewed based on the current and best available knowledge.


    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    Yes indeed!

    Hi All!

    My 66 K Convt. had a "D" in white or very light yellow grease marker on the RT outer engine comp. wall just opposite the Battery and another "D" in the same location on the RT side. On the Drivers side of the radiator panel (grille-side), in same marker, were a "6T" and a "SW". Just below these, on the cross-frame member, was "_33. I might agree that the "Ds" could indicate Disc brakes but not a clue about the others.

    Bill

Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!

Register Yourself Login