Posts by Kliz_old

  • Exhaust Manifold Bolts

    I'd like to varify the correct exhaust manifold bolt/washer combination for my 1966 March build 289 HiPo

    According to Bob Mannel's book, Mustang & Ford Small Block V8, ch. 6, pg. 25, the correct exhaust manifold bolt/washer combination for a late (after Dec. 1965) 289 HiPo is shown in upper right hand corner photo. It consists of the special bolt with a captured Ramp Lock conical washer and a flat washer, i.e., a three-piece set with NO locking tabs. I assume this is correct, eventhough Scott Drake sells a kit (p/n EMB-C6ZE-528) w/o the flat washers.

    The MCA Judging rules are a bit vague: "66-tab (early) or ramp-lock bolts and washers", which I assume means 3 pieces as specified by Mannel. Thanks Bob! Your book has been a great help!

    Bill


    BTW, AMK has the flat washers - p/n B-13004 (phophate oil)

  • Autolite Shock Bushings

    Does anyone know of a source for rubber bushings for original K-Code Autolite shocks, especially the upper through-eye bushing for the front C5ZF 18045 B shocks. I've tried web sources such as E-bay and the usual auto supply houses with no luck.

  • HiPo with front disc brakes

    Thanks for the input everyone.


    I've put about 300+ miles on it and condition hasn't changed. I know the "knockouts" are still in the rear backing plates. If rears aren't self-adjusting, then this might be the problem.


    This brings up a question. Why haven't "knockouts" been removed in 90K miles to make adjustments? Can adjustment be made by removing the wheel and drum? This may be the easiest way if one has no lift! I'll try tomorrow and let you all know.

    Thanks again

    Bill

  • Rally Pac Restoration

    My 2 bits worth!

    I had a terrible problem painting over several off-the-shelf wrinkle paints with Scott Drake L-5779 Parchment lacq. The wrinkle undercoat always blistered off. Finally, I took parts to the local powder coat shop. They were able to apply a wrinkle powder coat that took the L-5779 without any problem. Apply multiple very light coats of L-5779 -too heavy and you loose the wrinkle effect.

  • HiPo with front disc brakes

    I've just finished the restoration of a 66 HiPo GT convert. The entire brake system has been rebuilt, including the original Kelsey Hayes rear brake proportioner. When driving the car, the initial pedal push on stopping is spongy and travels about an inch past the accellerator pedal. If I pump the brake a second time, the pressure firms up considerably and stops at about even with the acc. pedal.


    I don't think this is normal. Is there anything you all can suggest that might cause this before I start troubleshooting. I want to suspect a problem with the proportioner since I've heard these rebuilds are not always successful.


    Thanks

    Bill

  • Spare tire doesn't fit in trunk!

    Hi Fred,

    You probably know as much about this Kar as I do by now. You've been a great help in getting us through this project.


    Our Kar has a Mar. 1966 build date. The Rt. rear fender well is NOT recessed. I'm guessing a dia. of 25" to 25.5" is the proper (max.) dia. for these kars. We're dealing with Coker now on this issue. Hopefully, they'll come up with a solution that will allow us to be concours correct - I don't think a 27" dia. tire is or would be concours correct. It looks kind of odd compared to others I've seen in photos.


    It would be helpful if someone could measure the dia.of an "original" mounted 14" tire (inflated). At this point, I'm not so much concerned with odo accuracy as I am with the asthetics and getting the spare in the trunk. Letting the air out may be the only option but this tire may still br too big.


    Thanks for the input everyone.

    Bill


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  • Spare tire doesn't fit in trunk!

    I bought a set of Coker 6.95X14 US Royal("Safety 800") bias ply for my 66 K-Code restoration. I had assumed these were correct tires for concours trailered class. These are tires Coker recommends. The inflated diameter is 26.75" and will not fit in the designated trunk location - the hold-down hook won't reach the floor bracket. We tried a very old 6.95X14 Firestone "500", which came on the car. It's diameter was 24.25". It fit OK, not great, but , at least, we could get it locked into it's proper location.


    Has anyone else had this problem? Isn't tire diameter important for accurate odometer readings? Is there a specified tire dia. for K-Codes? I've been told some later cars had an indent in the rt. wheel well to make more room for tire.


    Thanks!

    Bill

  • Rebuild 1965 Disk Brake Master Cylinder

    If you're rebuilding an original, send it first to Sierra Specialty Automotive http://www.brakecylinder.com for re-sleeving before you rebuild. The cost is $75 and they do a beautiful job.


    I'm told that rebuild kits from NPD, Virginia, etc., are same as NAPA part. For our 66 we bought the NAPA kits for the 66 and the 67 as the 67 kit included the correct piston/rod which the 66 kit did not.


    One word of caution; there are two different NAPA kits, one for earlier cars (65?) and one for later. I think it has something to do with a difference in the rod/piston diameter. The 67 rod may not work for a 65.


    Once you get all this figured out, it is a very easy rebuild. Buy a new cap and, when finished, the master cylinder looks like new with the original casting.


    Hope this helps !

    Bill

  • Carlite Glass Replacement

    The windshield etchings are slightly different than the side and rear glass.

    [/quote]


    OK! That's just enough info to get me into a lot of trouble!


    Would the windshield bug have a "LAMINATED" etched below the "Carlite" logo? I presume they were laminated. Could also have had a "DOT" mark?


    Thanks, all of you, for the input!

    Bill

  • Carlite Glass Replacement

    While we're on the subject, let's discuss the Carlite bugs on the glass. I have a few questions:


    1. Does the windshield have the same bug as the side glass, i.e., "Carlite"?


    Unfortunately, mine has been discarded (broken) and I don't remember what it was. We have another 66 K-Code with an LOF bug on the WS. Could this be a replacement?


    2. Does all tinted Carlite glass have, in addition to the "Carlite" logo, "SUN-X" etched beneath it on the trademark line?


    I think the tinted "Carlite" with "SUN-X" is correct but not sure about the WS bug.


    3. Did all convertibles come with tinted glass and WS?


    Thanks,

    Bill

  • Carlite Glass Replacement

    Hi all!

    I want to replace the glass in our 66 K Conv. with correct concours with the correct Carlite date coded "bugs". I've been told that one must buy generic glass and have the "bugs" etched in by a Ford licensed shop. I've located several sources around the country but would be interested in hearing from anyone with experience and/or source recommendations. Any other comments would also be appreciated!

    Thanks very much,

    Bill

  • paint daub paint

    Hi All!

    My 66 K Convt. had a "D" in white or very light yellow grease marker on the RT outer engine comp. wall just opposite the Battery and another "D" in the same location on the RT side. On the Drivers side of the radiator panel (grille-side), in same marker, were a "6T" and a "SW". Just below these, on the cross-frame member, was "_33. I might agree that the "Ds" could indicate Disc brakes but not a clue about the others.

    Bill

  • paint daub paint

    Sorry! I'm a bit late to this thread but I have some related comments.


    On pages 164-166 of Tony Gregory's 4th Ed. are very detailed, verbal descriptions of "Paint Daubs" on various 64 1/2 thru 66 HiPo parts.

    Unfortunately, there aren't enough photos to aid in identifying how these marks were actually applied, their color shade, direction of stripes, size of "daub", brushed-on or sprayed-on, etc., etc.


    Without a visual reference for each daub or stripe it is, in my opinion, impossible to accurately duplicate what came out of the (three different) factories. I'd assume some parts such as coil and leaf springs would have specific markings to denote loading rates and for part matching purposes but the rest could vary greatly with each individual assembly-line worker. I've even talked to a pro Mustang restorer who found very explicit graffiti grease penciled on a body panel. I didn't ask him if he reproduced it in the restoration.


    It certainly would be nice if there were a reliable source that has complete visual as well as verbal descriptions of daubs and stripes but common sense says there is not and probably never will be. In the meantime, good luck and happy daubing and striping!


    Bill


    PS: I,m making every effort to duplicate only the actual marks found pre-resto and nothing more - do judges really look at all these things?