Brake lines to master.

I've always thought that the loops were there to absorb any movement of the master cylinder or chassis.

Just out of my curiosity what is the dual m/c sourced from for a '65? and can you use the same lines to hook it up from a disc brake m/c?? (Thanks)

Looks like a drum brake MC to me.

The loops in the brake lines are generally refered to as "Strain relief" Loops. your assumption that they were put there to compensate for movement is correct. The set up as you show in the pictures could lead to a cracking failure of the lines at the junction blocks or Master cylinder (or at the very least cause leaking at the fittings). As we all know the Mustang chassis is prone to some major flexing.(depending on how hard it is driven) While the space is limited I would strongly suggest that you include some sort of loop in each line..... just my opinion

Steve:

I use an OEM model 27134 tubing bender(it is an adustable bender) and it works great for the type of loops you need to make. If you have an AutoZone parts store in your area you can pick one up there. otherwise you may have to go on line to the OEM tool site to find a local supplier. There are other mfgs out there that make good benders as well and other people on this site may have some other recommendations as well. (There are a number of good pictures of the tool if you type in OEM tubing Bender 27134 Autozone into your broswer) Good luck on your project

Edited by - sixfiveGT on 11/04/2010 11:58:38

Steve:

Making a good loop does take some practice.. trying to put into words the exact method of bending is difficult... but I will give it a shot...and please if there is anyone else out there that can explain this better please jump in)... in general what I do is take a flexible measuring tape (I've used a cloth tape like women use in sewing to get an idea of how much tubing I will need (especially for the loop).. then I take measurements from the distribution block or the master cyliner to determine how long the straight section will be before the bend begins...I mark that distance with a magic marker on the tube..(be sure to allow for the distance the fittings will stick out of the mc or dist block) using that as a reference point I begin the bend working the bender down the tube... as the bend begins to take shape you will be able to continue to bend the tube by moving the bender down the tube to get the loop you need...I like to get at least a 360 degree loop before I change direction... some times that means turning a 90 degree bend at the base of the loop.. again careful measurements will be needed to determine where you should make the bends to go to the next location or to clear an obstruction.(it is always wise to mark these transition points with a marker on the tube (It sure is easier for me to do than to explain) I would suggest if you have some scrape tubing that you practice with the bender before trying to do this on the new tube... Hope that I haven't made this more confusing...

Trial and error - work almost every time - again.

Jim

Amen!!

Back a thousand years ago (it seems to be that far back) when I did the plumbing on my sand rail, I bent the tubing to fit first, trimmed it to the proper lengths and then put the fittings on the ends. This works most of the time but can be a pain in tight areas.

Jim

They say necessity is the mother of invention.. and where there's a will there's away... Well so much for the cliches... this looks at lot better... job well done.. and I think you will be happier in the long run... (hmmm... a piece of pipe.... I'll have to remember that)

a large socket works well also, & are generally handy.

Z.

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Looks like a drum brake MC to me.

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I agree Charles about this one being a drum brake m/c, I am trying to decern what m/c I would need to use to replace a '65-'66 Disc brake m/c when I start driving my car regularly-seems I've heard that one from a '70s Maverick will work??