Posts by SixfiveGT

Happy to see this site is up and running again, Was one of the early members, Found a lot of helpful information while I was restoring my K over 5 years ago now.

one quick additional note. if you go to their web site click on Ford then click on show all, Their listings are a little messed up in that they list the radiator I think you may be interested in as a "Mach I" 64.5 - 66 but if you look closely at the picture you will see that it seems to have all the right flanges and cutouts. I would call to verify but this is listed as an aluminum replacement. good luck

You might want to try going to the website of U.S. Radiator at http://www.usradiator.com. This company supplies a full line of radiators to the street rod and restoration markets and offer a variety of styles and materials from OE, to Aluminum, to copper and brass cores in traditional designs. Their phone number is 323-826-0965. Hope this helps.

For those of you who don't know the specifics in 2007 former president George W. Bush signed the Energy Independence and Security Act (EISA) into law. The provisions in this law are intended to reduce energy usage and greenhouse gas emissions and enable the US to be less dependent on foreign sources of oil. It's a rather sweeping set of changes, but the change most relevant to consumers is probably the phaseout of 40W, 60W, 75W, and 100W standard incandescent light bulbs.(Standard household bulbs)

The EISA provides for a three year phaseout schedule that starts with inefficient 100W incandescents in 2012. The next year will see 75W incandescents gone, and the third year will phase out 60W and 40W bulbs. In addition to the phaseout, the law sets minimum standards for general service incandescent light bulbs, making it necessary for you to replace old inefficient incandescents with new energy efficient lighting.

There are three technology options for replacing incandescent light bulbs; halogen, compact fluorescent, and solid state (LED). New halogen light bulbs will be in wattages compliant with new maximum rated wattages. The new wattages replace the old as follows; instead of 40W, 60W, 75W, and 100W, maximum rated wattages will be 29W, 43W, 53W, and 72W. You can expect new halogen bulbs to be designed to look just like old incandescents, and because halogens are a form of incandescent light bulb you can use them in any place you're currently using incandescents.

The other two energy efficient options (CFL and LED) use a lot less energy than even halogens, but have drawbacks of their own. Compact fluorescent light bulbs are very energy efficient and come in nearly any color temperature you could want, but they do contain very small amounts of toxic mercury so they must be handled with care and disposed of/recycled carefully. LED light bulbs do not contain mercury, but are currently extremely expensive, limiting their use to commercial and business applications for now.

At this point there is no mention of automotive service bulbs being legislated out, but it is becoming more difficult to find automotive miniature lights as more and more new cars are using LED or other types of lighting technology. A lot of auto parts stores are not carrying them due to limited demand. (why waste shelf space on a slow moving item?) so the suggestion to stock up when you can is probably a good one but not because of this law.

My 2 cents

Hi Richard:

You asked about the difference in the two part numbers for the wheels. The C4GY-1007-B decodes as a 1964 Mercury Comet service replacement part and the C5ZZ-1007-A decodes as a 1965 Mustang wheel used prior to February 1,1965. The Hollander interchange manual that I was referring to is dated 1966 and was used by salvage yards to determine parts interchangeability. This manual lists the C5ZZ-1007-A and indicates that it is a 14x5 5 bolt wheel with a 4 1/2" bolt pattern and should work with V8,Comet,Fairlane,Falcon,Meteor and Econoline vehicles. This book does not make any distinction between drum or disc brakes for V8 vehicles.

From what you have indicated it appears that you were working on an early production car (at least the wheel numbers indicate that) I have owned Mustangs since 1965 and have never personally experienced a wheel compatibility problem when I used a 5 bolt wheel (whether it was used on drum or disc brakes.) I have purchased 5 bolt standard steel wheels both on ebay and from other sources and I guess luck was with me,since I have not had a problem. Having said all that.... you did experience a problem and by looking at the different parts manuals (I too have a 1965-73 master parts catalog from a Ford dealership dated 1975 Final Issue but that only lists a C80Z 1007-G)it makes it difficult to determine just what the problem may have been...a potential cause could have been with the Stainless Steel calipers. If the vehicle was an early unit that too could have played a role in the problem you had on that particular unit. It is also unclear what modifications may have been made to the vehicle prior to it coming to you.(given that it had comet service replacements). I have included a copy the Ford Parts sheet that I have so you can compare it to yours... But this still isn't helping Chris with his question... hopefully someone out there has an answer.

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I too have looked at all the available information that I have and I can't find where there was a special wheel for drum brakes only. Even the Hollanders interchange manual only lists one wheel that could be used on a variety of Ford Products. I did find this chart and writeup in the Mustang Recognition guide. I hope it is readable in this format if not send me a PM with your email address and I will send you a pdf file.

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I was going to use the spinners shown in the picture

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but I have a black A code 65 convert with a red interior and the red lines and spinners looked so good on that car I decided to trade the Style Steel Wheels that were on the convert and put those on the coupe instead. The original color of this car was Silver Blue but I have to admit that I strayed.... the color on the car is 65 Marina Blue a (gasp)a GM color, I wanted to match a similar color that Ford used on the 65 Birds and this was a close as I could come. Had this been a fastback or convertible I would have stayed with the original Silver Blue (just really don't like that color.)But this was built to be a driver and as we know the value of a coupe even a nice one will never equal a FB or convert so I decided to change it to a color that I did like. I know a lot of folks are probably cringing right now.

here are a couple of shots of my car with the stock steel wheels [Blocked Image: http://i54.tinypic.com/14w991d.jpg] [Blocked Image: http://i55.tinypic.com/2sa1qp1.jpg]

I have the 14X5 stock wheels on my K with disc brakes and I have tried the Style steel wheels from my A code convertible with drum brakes and both work just fine on either car... just as long as they are stock disc brake calipers as 6hypo5conv has indicated. hope this helps

appreciate the correction, was looking at the 65 option sheet instead of the 66.... you certainly have a wealth of information on these sheets... thanks for sharing. It is curious that the ROT number stayed the same... when I was at the Ford plant they had 7 cars that had been pulled for various reasons... we were told that it was possible to cause some confusion down the line depending on when and why the vehicle was pulled... but for the most part they were able to get things re-sequenced without a problem.

Just wondering if the "BL" on the build sheet could be "back up lights" as that was still an option in 66....? Something that I recall from a visit I made to a Ford assembly plant in Canada was that it was not unusual for a car to be pulled from the assembly line if a problem was encountered... once the problem(s)were fixed it was put back on the line to be completed... could that be what happened here?

Pete: If you have realplayer on your computer you can save this video to your machine... simply right click on the video and a drop down menu will appear that gives you the option to save. If you don't have realplayer you can down load a free copy from the net. I just finished downloading the video and it worked great..... Thanks for finding this and sharing it with the group.

If memory serves me right C90F 12127 (don't know about the F) should be what was used for the 69 /70 Boss 302.... but keep in mind us old guys have diminished memory capacity.

Having just installed my HiPo engine this past summer I certainly recommend installing it with the manifolds on. You can wait but it is a real bear to try and install them once the engine is in the car. It can be done but the language can get somewhat colorful as you do it. You will need the HiPo Z bar for your clutch as the HP manifold dumps just about in the middle of the old C code unit.

Virginia Classic Mustang has a GT Stencil Kit that includes the templates to correctly locate the emblems that you are talking about. the part number is ER156 and sells for around $14.00

For those who are interested VMF is back up and online.

Just to add my two cents.... I received my pump from Fred a few weeks ago and I am more than pleased with the result... Thank you Fred for what you did...

I would recommend that anyone looking to have their pump done should get with Fred... He is great to work with, does what he says, when he says he will do it and the quality of his work is great.. Posted by an obviously satisfied customer...!!

As James said... that is a good question ...and one that can have many philosophical interpretations... I believe that there are many degrees and definitions that can be applied to the words "restored" and "restoration". I think that is borne out by the fact that MCA has different judging classifications for people to compete in, depending on the degree to which the car has been "restored" and how it is used..i.e. trailered vs driven.

For the sake of discussion let's take a look at your control arm example, which by coincidence applies to my car. In your example you rebuild an original control arm. In this case I would assume that you have probably replaced the ball joints, duplicated the rivets, rebuilt the cross shafts,then repainted. In my case I purchased NOS Ford arms in 1978 from my local Ford dealer and finally installed them in 2010. I would agree that from an originality point of view your example is more original than mine, but is my car any less "restored" than yours or more "restored" than the guy that bought a new Moog unit?

If we are strictly talking about judging, then I would concede that you have a more "original" car than I, but from the perspective of using the word "restored" to describe both cars I think we both are correct.

When looking at various restorations it is very clear that some cars are done to a very high level of "correctness". The great job done on the K convertible is a prime example. If I were to compare my car against it...I would quickly say my vehicle couldn't hold a candle to it from a strictly original point of view. However, in my project as in the case of the convertible, not a single nut or bolt was left untouched. Everything in my car is either,new or professionally rebuilt and I tried to remain faithful to what Ford did when the car was built.. From that perspective I would call my car "restored" albeit not to the same degree as the convertible.

I know that we won't answer this question to anyone's real satisfaction here.. because each of us has our own perspective on what constitutes "restoration" but it is fun to have these types of discussions....gives fuel for thought and as long as no one is offended in the process I think we can all learn something new.

Just some thoughts....

For those who are interested Vintage Mustang Forum is down for maintenance today...There is a message up now that states this and for those of you who use the site it says it should be back up shortly

Charles has a good point about the use of the word "restoration" and how it applies to a specific vehicle. I've seen a car where the "restorer" used a rattle can to paint the entire car and called it "restored". So the old adage of Caveat Emptor (let the buyer beware) is a good motto to live by. The assignment of value to any given car can vary from day to day. Just look at Barrett Jackson and similar auctions.. a car can go for a few thousand one day... and for hundreds of thousands the next. the only difference was that there were two individuals that happened to really want that car.. case in point, at a BJ auction last year a Chevelle convertible went for over $150,000 because of a bidding war... was the car worth that much....IMHO.... no way... but that is what it sold for and does that now set the value for similar Chevelles? I hope not!

I would like to address one point that Charles made... and that has to do with using "catalog" parts to restore a car. There are many of us, that for whatever reason either don't have access to the rapidly dwindling stock of NOS parts or simply can't afford the price of a particular NOS part. As I was "restoring" my coupe (a full ground up down to bare metal restoration)... I used, when I could, NOS parts, some bought in the early eighties from Ford and when I could find them from other NOS suppliers. In some cases that was not possible... so I had to rely on companies like Virgina Classic Mustang and others to supply the parts that I needed that I couldn't otherwise find or afford. Being a mechanic, I used my best judgment as to the quality of the parts being supplied and in many cases when the quality was poor (and that happened more than once) I either returned or didn't use that particular part and went elsewhere to find a better part. (which increased the cost to restore)

The convertible project that we have been privileged to see on this forum is the type of restoration I think we would all strive to achieve but for many of us that don't have those types of resources have to rely on "catalogs" to see us through.

So going back to Charles' original point about restorations being all over the map... I agree that is true and that any potential buyer should do their homework before buying... evaluating the quality of the workmanship put into the restoration should be the primary concern, however, the use of "catalog" parts, while maybe a concern, it shouldn't scare anyone away from a well done car. Just keep in mind that if those type of parts are used the car will never compete in the thoroughbred class at MCA .... but then that isn't why I did my car..I did it to drive and enjoy and to know that what I was driving would be safe, reliable, fun and hopefully nice to look at.

Just some of my thoughts.....