Button Top Fuel Pump Leak. HELP!!!!

GTBullitt · May 29, 2010 at 6:58 PM

I recently had Fred ( c6zzkgt) rebuild my button top fuel pump. The fuel pump installation went flawlessly except it is leaking/weeping fuel on the output side of the pump. I spoke with Fred who suggested changing fuel lines and checking for burs on the inside threads of the fuel pump. I have since put in a new fuel pump line and a second button top fuel pump that I had but there is still leaking/weeping from the threaded/output side of the pump. I tried to seal the fuel line with 1) white Teflon tape. A BIG MISTAKE. NEVER USE. 2) Now tried Permatex Gasket Sealant ( Hylomar. Non-hardening and non-setting). This car is due to go to Carlisle, PA on Thursday. Desperately need to fix fuel pump to meet Marv and Gene.

It has been suggested on other forums to use a sparing amount of gasoline resistant (not silicone) thread sealer. One was " Rectorseal #5" . The other " Leak Lock Blue Non- Hardening Liquid." And the last " Gas Oila." Thoughts?

Disclaimer: This by no means impugns Fred's reputation as an excellent fuel pump re-builder!

Edited by - GTBULLITT on 05/29/2010 19:05:18

round2K_old · May 29, 2010 at 10:06 PM

Have you tried using a pair of flare nut wrenches and cranking down to seat the compression fitting? You shouldn't have to use a sealant or tape, and if you do you'll likely end up with some of it in the carburetor. Seating an old line with a different pump can sometimes require quite a bit of effort to seat the line.

GTBullitt · May 29, 2010 at 10:25 PM

Oh yes I did, if I turn it anymore I think I break it. At this rate I'll be driving my 2001 Bullitt to Carlisle PA. next week you know with A/C power steering/brakes 5 speed 460 mach radio, boy will this be a hard trip.

SixT5HiPo · May 30, 2010 at 12:00 AM

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... At this rate I'll be driving my 2001 Bullitt to Carlisle PA. next week you know with A/C power steering/brakes 5 speed 460 mach radio, boy will this be a hard trip.

Considering the advance weather reports, driving a car with A/C might be a real plus, but I hope the fuel pump problem will be solved in time to bring the K code this year.

round2K_old · May 30, 2010 at 9:08 AM

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Oh yes I did, if I turn it anymore I think I break it. At this rate I'll be driving my 2001 Bullitt to Carlisle PA. next week you know with A/C power steering/brakes 5 speed 460 mach radio, boy will this be a hard trip.

If I understand your previous post you've tried two different pumps and two different lines. Based on that, it sounds like you're not getting the compression flare to seat, and it's rarely the pump end that's the problem, it's usually the line. If you haven't tried this you should give it a shot: set the two flare nut wrenches in place - one on the fitting and one on the fuel pump - so that they are aligned in a way that you can forcefully squeeze them together single-handedly, rather than pushing or pulling with arm strength. When you get them in the right location then go for it and really squeeze. If you haven't seated the flare properly in your previous attempts then using that approach will show you how much you have to go to get the compression flare to conform to the fuel pump. When you think it's tight, go some more and you will feel the line confirming to the pump.

The odds of you having two bad fuel lines are pretty low, and the odds it being either of the fuel pumps are astronomically low. With four separate parts to choose from and there still being a problem it's probably not the parts, it's the method of installation. When it comes to double flared compression fittings like brake and fuel lines what you may think it tight isn't! When you've worked as a mechanic (and there are quite a few of us old school guys on the forum) for a living you recognize how much effort it takes to get a challenging compression fitting tight enough to seat when there is a different combination of parts, i.e. different fuel line to different pump. It takes a lot more effort at tightening than you might think, and the fitting won't break. Instead, the line will go that little extra distance and the flare will conform. In my experience it's about an eighth to a quarter revolution of the nut beyond what you think is tight. Whatever you do, never use a sealant or teflon tape on a compression fitting as the sealing only takes place at the face of the flaring.

Edited by - round2K on 05/30/2010 09:20:26

CharlesTurner · May 30, 2010 at 9:41 AM

Any chance the fuel line is stainless steel?

GTBullitt · May 30, 2010 at 12:20 PM

Yes the old and new lines are SS. When I picked this car up 8 years ago it had SS with a non Button top fuel pump. No leaks no problems, I guess I'll pull a little harder on my flare nut wrench just don't want bust a $$$ pump

66KGT_old · May 30, 2010 at 1:59 PM

You really have to crank down SS lines. I too would be leary of breaking the pump.

I had the same problem my first car show but with standard lines. Ended up having to re-flair the line to solve the problem.

round2K_old · May 30, 2010 at 2:09 PM

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Yes the old and new lines are SS. When I picked this car up 8 years ago it had SS with a non Button top fuel pump. No leaks no problems, I guess I'll pull a little harder on my flare nut wrench just don't want bust a $$$ pump

You have to use two wrenches or you will damage something. You need an open-end flare nut wrench for the fuel pump side and a flare nut wrench for the fuel line side or you will definitely bugger the nut or the pump. You cannot properly torque the line nut without a wrench on the fuel pump.

kar-nut_old · May 30, 2010 at 5:59 PM

Permatex® High Performance Thread Sealant

OEM specified. Formulated specifically for metal, tapered pipe thread fittings, it replaces thread seal tape and pipe dopes. Cures rapidly to withstand 10,000 PSI. Prevents galling and protects mated threaded areas from rust and corrosion. Contains PTFE.

Suggested Applications: Stainless steel fittings, head bolts into through holes, oil PSI sending units/sensors, oil and coolant lines, intake manifold switches, rear axle fill plug, fuel fittings.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Autom…ead_Sealant.htm

[Blocked Image: http://www.permatex.com/images/DisplayImage.asp?210%7C/images/ProductPhotos/56521.jpg]

round2K_old · May 30, 2010 at 6:15 PM

I don't believe there were any Ford specified sealants applied to compression fittings when the K codes were new. It might be OEM now, but was it OEM then?

A compression fitting is not the same as a pipe thread fitting, and using sealants on them is asking for trouble and a mess in your carburetor or a leak. It's a simple mechanical joint.

If he has to get down the road for a show and it's a successful emergency repair, then perhaps it would work. As a long term solution, I wouldn't recommend it.

CharlesTurner · May 30, 2010 at 8:17 PM

I believe the most obvious fix to this problem is replacing the stainless steel line with a regular steel line.

GTBullitt · May 30, 2010 at 9:36 PM

Well I did it! by that I mean I didn't break the pump. It would have made for a great photo, with one foot on the pass. side tire, the other foot pushing down on the bell housing and my head pushed up on the other tire. Man what I wouldn't give for a lift those drive up ramps don't give my fat old body much room. So yes I was always using two wrenches one on the pump vs one the line nut. Just pulled real hard then took it for a nice test drive and all was well when I hear those solid lifters sing there song. BTW I driving down the main street when this hot 1968 Chevelle 396 pulls along side of me, of course he guns the engine I look back out my window and see he has two large flags sticking from his bumper. One is the American Flag the other MIA for Vietnam so with the sprit of Memorial day I just waved him by. Thanks for all the tips Brian

Edited by - GTBULLITT on 05/30/2010 21:39:11

zray · May 30, 2010 at 9:58 PM

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I believe the most obvious fix to this problem is replacing the stainless steel line with a regular steel line.

that's what I would do.

Z. Ray

SixT5HiPo · May 31, 2010 at 12:46 AM

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Well I did it! Just pulled real hard then took it for a nice test drive and all was well. Thanks for all the tips Brian

So...does that mean you're bringing the K to Carlisle now?

round2K_old · June 1, 2010 at 1:32 PM

Way to go!

Participate now!