I have measured the front wheel studs, they are 2" overall. The part number appears to be the same for both front and rear, so I measureed the rear and they are 1 3/4" overall but they go into the lugnut a decent 1/2" whereas the fronts only go in 1/4" and I seriously doubt will be able to be tightened to a decent torque.
Are there longer studs available ?. Anyone else had this concern?.
Thanks
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I've always been able top get studs at local part stores here in Austin. No doubt it would be the same in your neck of the woods.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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Edited by - 65Rangoon on 04/08/2009 13:41:24
Hey Charlie
Thanks, not quite so easy over here. If I walked into my local parts store and asked for wheel nut studs for a '65 mustang they would send for the men in white coats. I have been fishing and NPD show some for a 72/73 at 2 3/16" same thread, at least they will have a bit more in the nut. They list 2" for a '65, I cant figure it out yet 1/4" in the nut is very little.
Thanks
Front and rear part numbers on studs are not the same as the disc brake studs are longer. They have a longer shoulder where they press through the rotor due to the fact that the rotor is thicker than a drum. The front stud part number is a C5SZ 1107 A and the rear is an A9AZ 1107 B. I just checked one of my Kars for stud length and it has a full 1/2 inch sticking out past the wheel. This is at the outside of the wheel surface past the taper so there is even a little more of the lut nut below the taper. The Kar has original Ford rotors and SS wheels.
-Fred-
Fred thanks for going to the trouble, I definately have the wrong studs mine are only just proud of the wheel so the 1/4" inch in the lug nut is in the tapered part of the nut. The wierd thing is I reckon my studs are 2" long overall and that is what NPD list for a '65. How long are your studs overall?. If they are longer than 2" do you have 10 in stock ?.
I am wondering if I have something non standard about the hub, I will look further over the weekend but as I dont have another to compare with I will be somewhat in the dark.
Have a good easter Regards Mark
Mark, I am sure that you will understand that I am not going to take a stud out of one my running Kars to check overall length. I did however knock one out of a good used original rotor that I have and it matches the Ford spec of 1.94 inches. This is measured from the end of the thread to the inside of the bottom shoulder. It actually measures 2.150 overall.
-Fred-
Ok the studs seem to be short but I think I may also have the wrong lug nuts, looking at a pic in the 1975 MPC which shows the lug nut for a '65 SS wheel having an extension past the seating cone which would go into the hole in the wheel. I will try to add the illustration. I have the nut 2nd from left, the book says I should have the nut in the centre or is this not correct.
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Fred I did not remove a stud either. I just held a tape up to the hole in the rotor and eyeballed it at about 2" which ties up perfectly with your last post of 2. 150". I have 3/4" of stud to mount the wheel on. I would be interested on your thoughts on the nuts. I am still puzzled as to how you have 1/2" thru the wheel I only have 1/8" thru the wheel if that. The wheels are not original I think they have a date of 1995 IIRC I wonder if they are thicker than originals
Thanks Mark
Fellas I apologise if this is getting boring but I may be uncovering something concerning the repro SS wheels that may be dangerous.
I have been over the hub/wheel with a digital caliper.
Stud sticking thru wheel measured on flat next to hole - 0.170"
Stud sticking thru hub - 0.757"
Stud overall - 2.140"
Inner mounting face of wheel to outer wheel face on flat next to hole - 0.587"
The wheels have a plate welded to the inside with two raised edges, one near the hub bearing cap and one outside the holes this makes the wheel 0.587" thick.
The wheels are dated 1993.
Fred do you have an original SS wheel off to measure the thickness ?
I put a straight edge across the inner mounting face and dipped thru the hole with the end of a vernier caliper.
Pic of my wheel
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Edited by - cobraboy on 04/09/2009 18:05:10
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Ok the studs seem to be short but I think I may also have the wrong lug nuts, looking at a pic in the 1975 MPC which shows the lug nut for a '65 SS wheel having an extension past the seating cone which would go into the hole in the wheel. I will try to add the illustration. I have the nut 2nd from left, the book says I should have the nut in the centre or is this not correct.
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Mark, The nuts shown in the MPC illustration you posted are Shelby parts. For styled steel wheels you need C5ZZ-1012-B nuts. Dave
Here's a pic of my Koupe, original Style steel wheel, disc brakes. This car is an unmolested original my dad bought new. Hope this helps.
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Mark, I measured an NOS Ford SS wheel and measuring from a straight edge across the back of the wheel to around the flat area on the front where the lug nut attaches, I have a variance of .540 to .600. The studs in my original rotor stick out 1.050 from the mounting surface. Your studs are the problem. Look at the photo posted above of the original wheel and rotor with the lug nut off. That is how mine looks as well.
-Fred-
Gary, Dave, Fred
The sun has just come out in the UK not only in the sky but in the garage as well.
I have removed the hub got it on the bench and gave one of the studs a hefty wack with a hide mallet to try to seperate the rotor and a gap opened up around what I thought was an integral mounting flange for the wheel. Someone has fitted a 1/4" spacer that is slightly bigger in diameter to the front face of the hub. This has been sprayed light grey along with the hub and it all looks as one piece.
I now have @ 1.029" of stud sticking out with that removed and @ 0.430" of stud thru the wheel.
Sorry Fred no sale again [Blocked Image: http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss52/cobraboy1/IMG_1319.jpg]
I will now leave you all in peace, have a very pleasant weekend thanks to you all Mark
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