Refurb or replace - part 1

  • OK, after years of putting it off, I finally started dismanteling my engine compartment for detailing. I'll be needing much help, so thanks in advance. I need to figure out what to refurbish and what to replace. Got any advice on these items?


    My goal for this project is not to create a concours show car. I want this to remain a nice driver, but when I open the hood I want people to see what a K code should look like, while still remaining driveable. If I'm painting parts, I should at least attempt to paint it the right color - hence the research needed on this.


    1. Fan Shroud and Radiator: Please help identify if this is an original shroud. It has lots of gunked up paint which will be difficult to strip. I'm thinking of simply scuffing and topcoating. The current finish is glossier than the engine bay walls - similar to the sheen on the fan and brackets. The radiator top currently has a full gloss coat and is the only thing under the hood that does. What sheens are correct for these parts? Are the ugly welds at the top of my radiator correct? Any other advice?


    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/shroud.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/shroud2.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/shroud3.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/shroud4.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/radiator1.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/radiator2.jpg]


    2. Battery Tray: This was really fun to get off! As you can see very rusty on top of tray, but otherwise very solid. Should I reuse or buy the cheap replacement in the catalog? The rust converter costs way more than the replacement, but how good is the part?


    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/batttray1.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/batttray2.jpg]

    [Blocked Image: http://troy.krugercentral.com/underhood/batttray3.jpg]


    Edited by - 66gtk on 03/17/2007 22:04:16


    Edited by - 66gtk on 03/17/2007 22:16:09

  • Troy, radiator shroud, radiator and battery tray should be semi-gloss which is glossier than the engine compartment. Your shroud appears to be correct, can't tell for sure from the pictures. It looks like your radiator has been recored. A couple years ago I would have recommended an NOS battery tray but prices are starting to get rather high. If you search you may still be able to pick one up fairly reasonable. The repop isn't too bad and would serve the purpose. I would guess the one you have now is a replacement as I've seen very few that aren't rusted all the way through.

  • I have part of an article (from my old magazines I sold to JSnell) from an auto-restorer who uses a 1 to 5 chart of glossiness. I don't remember it specifically calling out fan shrouds, etc, but it did include engine compartment, rear axle, etc. If I remember, I'll dig up my scan and email / post it.


    BTW- has anyone used Eastwood underhood black? I tried it and like the look, but it seems to be very soft. I can put a deep dent in there with my thumbnail, so I may decide to use an epoxy paint instead, even if the gloss factor isn't correct.


    Lyle

  • Before you dive in and toss the battery tray you might want to check it for a date code. If it is correct and can be beadblasted that might be a better option.

  • Hi Lyle...As a general rule I always try to salvage and restore original parts. Replacement should be a last resort in my book. Best paint I found for engine compartment walls is Krylon semi-flat black. I find the sheen to be VERY close to the original. Have fun with your project. Are you yanking the engine/tranny? Ed

  • <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

    Troy


    Eastwood sells black paint made for battery trays and sells paint in a green spray can for rad, Make sure it is the gloss.


    Mike

    <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>


    That radiator paint is supposedly thin "low-build" so it doesn't mess up your heat transfer, I think. I've been pretty happy with Eastwood products so far except for their "underhood black"'s softness.

  • Can I use the Eastwood radiator paint (glossy) on the entire radiator, including top and sides - or is it just for the front/back of the radiator.

  • That's an interesting list. For the most part, I would agree with the shades of black. Additionally, though, gloss is a result of several other factors including the type of paint used (lacquer vs. enamel), the conditions and mixture of the paint, the type of material being covered(cast vs. stamped steel) and whether the part was dipped or sprayed. A good bit of advice was given in the article, which was to replicate what you find on your car. A nice parts washer and mineral spirits go a long way in determining the original finish of parts.

  • One question I had (being an absolute non-expert) has to do with the front sway bar. I read that they were originally black and that it was a coating/chemical that made it that way rather than paint. What would that have been, and what ways could the look be duplicated (chemicals or paints)?

  • speaking of runs. I'm down to what I believe to be the original finish on the inner fender walls. Ford sure was sloppy with my car. Several runs throughout... So far, nearly every part I've taken off has an original FoMoCo part number, so my car is still very original.


    My battery cables even have FoMoCo tags/stickers wrapped around them, but no stamping. See the pics of the battery tray above and you can see the cables. Are these original or simply incorrect? I was planning on replacing them as they are a bit rough.


    Edited by - 66gtk on 03/28/2007 18:50:59

  • My bay also has big, gobby paint runs. I'm getting rid of them even though that makes it incorrect. Also when I was looking for that detailing article, I came across one on rear-end detailing. They figured out which parts were dipped, sprayed, etc. They figured out that the "tubes" had been held up by one end and sprayed, leaving long runs. when I remove the rust, I will not be duplicating that detail either.

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