Hot starting problems

No way...A Holley carb that is hard to start hot? <
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sarcasim.

Anyhow, most likely the Powervalve leaking. It's in the Primary metering block. Make sure you get one with the right vacuum rating for a K engine.

I would do the accelerator pump too while I have it off.

Beagle has offered you two good suggestions, but before you do anything that would require disassembly I would recommend that you check the float levels and adjust if necessary.

Edited by - round2K on 09/03/2006 10:21:15

Hi,

Do you use a spacer between the intake and the carb?

If not, it could be vapor lock, i.e. boiling fuel.

Just a thought.

/Bo

BoS took the words right out of my experience. The

desert SW is well known for HEAT and I had the same

hot starting problem until I put a spacer between

intake/carb.

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Great suggestions, that's what i like about this forum. Can i also suggest the possibility of a vacuum leak. i had a similar problem and found the gasket not sealing at the back of the intake manifold.

Tony

Vacuum leaks are never good, but I would think that a leak would make the car start hard in cold and warm temps.

When a Holley carburetor acquires an internal fuel leaks, the culprit is usually:

1 Metering body gasket. Besides sealing the main circuit and keep air and fuel separated, this gasket had to seal the accelerator pump passage. The old cork ones were prone to leak and shrink. If you find some old ones of these, toss them, they should never be used.

2 Power valve. This item is most often blamed and many times misdiagnosed. The diaphragm is wet with gas and it is assumed that the valve is faulty when the real problem is elsewhere. The old valves with the holes drilled in the side were prone to leaking. The window type are far better.

3 Power valve gasket. I have seen them reused so many times that there is no way they can seal.

4 The main body of the carburetor. The surfaces that the metering body seal against are cast. They depend on the gasket to seal.

In the main body of the carburetor there is a pocket that the power valve fits into. This pocket is exposed to engine vacuum so the power valve can function. There is a lot of fuel close by. If the metering body gasket leaks, fuel is sucked into the engine from around the main circuit. The accelerator pump passage is also sealed by this gasket. Any leaks will cause the mixture to go rich, leak fuel into the engine and make the car run like doggy do-do.

The cure:

1 Draw-file the metering body surfaces on the main body. It is amazing how much work is required to get everything flat. Pay close attention to the area around the accelerator pump passage.

2 Use only genuine Holley parts. Use the blue gaskets and power valves.

3 Most importantly; The torque specifications for the metering body screws are 40 to 55 INCH pounds. After you have tightened a couple of these with at torque wrench, you will have a feel for how tight this really is.

The quickest way to tell if you have an internal fuel leak (on a standard 4150 – 4160 without reverse idle mixture screws) is to close the idle mixture screws. If the engine continues to run, you have a leak.

All of the above is based on the float levels being set properly. The float levels time the main circuit tip-in and should never be ignored.