Posts by CB01

  • Sale/Trade? Modified HEH-T for stock HEH-BT

    I currently have an HEH-T that has been modified for drag racing. It has the blocker rings removed and a few Doug Nash parts (I have pics available). It's built for power shifting, and does this very well. It's been this way since I purchased it (I did none of the above mods), I drove it for a couple of years but found it better suited for racing applications vs. street driving (even though I've never raced this trans). I would like to find the correct close ratio toploader for my '66, which I believe is a -BT. If you are interested in buying or trading for this trans please let me know.

  • READ ABOUT DISHONEST Parts Vendor

    Saw this old post while searching for another...I bought a carb from this fellow and have been very impressed. Like was said before, he never said that they were originals, but that he had modified them to work/appear as originals. Of course I couldn't take the thing apart right at his table but he answered all my ?s regarding the mods he made to it.


    All I was really looking for was a good Ford 4-bbl w/ a manual choke setup to run on my HiPo, and it has done that job very well. W/ his price (after some minor haggling) at 30% or so of what an original carb costs...not a bad deal at all if you like to drive your HiPo vs. have it as a 100% correct trailer queen. 99.9% of the folks who look at my car have no idea nor could care less about the exact authenticity of the carb. The car looks good and goes fast! Will the value decrease b/c of my fake carb? Of course, but I don't plan on selling the thing for the next 100 years or so.


    Bottom line, the guy sells an honest product at a good price.

  • Did 66 GTs come with 3 speeds

    It is a very good swap...what is your rear gear ratio? It needs to be pretty low (numerically high) in order to keep the car from lugging in OD (5th gear). I put a World Class T5 in my '67 (302-300+ hp, 3.50 gears), and it lugged in 5th gear. I'd go w/ 3.73 or better.


    All you need is the crossmember and shifter conversion kits, and it's a bolt-in.

  • Clutch shudder

    Don't just focus on the clutch - anything loose in the driveline could contribute. An easy one is the trans-crossmember rubber mount. They rot easily, esp. when they get oily under there. Only costs a few bucks to replace as well.

  • Part ID

    Another thought, maybe Hi-Po crank damper bolts are supposed to be torqued down tighter than standard 289s due to the high rpms Hi-Po's were built for, thus the thicker washer???

  • Part ID

    The thicker Hi-Po washer implies that the Hi-Po damper is a tad shorter in terms of its thickness at the section where the crank bolt passes through. Using the standard washer might then have the effect of not allowing you to tighten your Hi-Po damper to the correct torque (since there is no difference in the snouts of Hi-Po and non-Hi-Po cranks)...it may even bottom the crank bolt into the snout threads (though I highly doubt it since the difference in thickness is so minute).


    I'm just using common sense here...I've never done any testing on this but it makes sense to me.

  • 5F09K651999

    Somewhat off-topic but does anyone else get tired of seeing 289 HP air cleaner decals on these kinds of cars? I've easily seen more of 'em on non-HP cars/engines than I have on real ones. Sort of waters down the real thing, IMO.

  • Distributor Weights...Help Please..

    Not sure if they are exactly the same as Hi Po weights, but they should be close enough to work if you are just looking to get on the road. Mechanical advance is usually adjusted by changing the springs that control the weights. Optimally, you would get your distributor tuned to your specific engine, which is where the fellow mentioned above would come in handy.

  • HiPo Mustang Rear Brakes

    It is possible to easily improve the brakes by using Fairlane shoes/drums - not sure of their size but they are bigger than the tiny Mustang shoes.


    I've always heard of this, but has anyone done this and felt a difference in stopping power?

  • Carb Question - 66k

    1. Is the linkage setup properly, diaphragm intact, and all ports/passages free of debris? It is very easy to lodge dirt somewhere during the rebuild process (if you didn't rebuild it yourself then unfortunately you have no idea what really went on).

    2. To test the vacuum secondaries, you can put a finger over a certain vacuum port on the underside of the carb while holding the secondary butterfly open (once it's off the engine of course). Let go of the butterfly, and it should slowly close. NOTE - check the shop manual for the exact procedure, I am going from memory here.

  • Motor mounts

    Sorry I keep bringing these old posts back up but I'm seeing them for the first time and they're interesting...


    A few other things to consider (my engine sits a little lower than stock b/c I have repro motor mounts, so I had to deal w/ this):

    - Clutch linkage angles change, thus making the pedal travel dimensions different than what the manual tells you

    - Throttle linkage angles change (can make a slight difference if you use the stock rods vice a cable)

    - Oil pan might hit lower crossmember (had to notch my crossmember for clearance)

    - The thing to remember w/ the pinion angle is that the pinion moves up when accelerating due to the power going to the rear end, thus straightening the driveline angles - this is important b/c that's when the rpms are up

  • Monte Carlo Bar

    Easy way out: take your torch and heat the center of the bar enough to squeeze it into position. When using a bar w/ the curved center portion to clear an air cleaner, it's barely noticeable.