<font face='Comic Sans MS'>A great looking car you have there. And topping off your day, the sun was out in full force.
We've had 67 days of 100 degrees or more here in Austin TX so far this Summer. Two more and we will tie the 1925 record of 69. Yipes! I'm ready for some clouds.
During my 3 yrs at RAF Lakenheath (79-82), the sun was always a welcome sight. [Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I put KYB Gas-Adjust units on both Mustangs years back and am well satisfied with their performance. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Charles, Your phosphate effort looks darn good. Where did you source the solution from?</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Interesting car. Its VIN is 506 numbers after mine, and the shots of the underside are a reminder of what I had to contend with bringing my car back from the dead.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>A Texas welcome aboard to ya!</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>What do you guys do regarding drilling the holes through the carpet. Any suggestions?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>To avoid the carpet to drill problem I've always used an ice pick to locate the holes (poking them from the underside of the tranny tunnel) then carefully with a solder gun, melt & seal each hole through the carpet.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I don't have an answer to your question, but I can tell you I've been successful stretching the boot over the 'T' one leg at a time. The pucker factor does go up a few notches in the process however. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>It appears to be a front valance brace, two of which are used on 69/70 Mustangs. Not totally sure because I can't make out a side view profile which incorporates a couple of 'steps' and a bit of a curve.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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Hi Everyone,
What does the shoulder harness option look like? Is that a sash type addition to the standard lap belt?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote><font face='Comic Sans MS'>My GTA has the shoulder harness option. It is a completely seperate belt. A real PITA at times. For instance if one forgets to release the parking brake, the shoulder belt must be unbuckled so you can reach the brake handle, that is unless you have arms the length of a gorilla. </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Your blk plate CA car looks as if it has weathered the years very well. Great find. Enjoy, and welcome to the forum.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I've always been able top get studs at local part stores here in Austin. No doubt it would be the same in your neck of the woods.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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Edited by - 65Rangoon on 04/08/2009 13:41:24
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Ah yes, and significantly, it is the 1st of April.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I'm not going to tell you what the temp is here in Austin TX, but short sleeves will do.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Another source I've used often for piece parts like that is Stainless Steel Brake (SSBC).</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I'm a huge fan of consoles, but ran w/o one for near 8 yrs in the Hipo and liked the somewhat spartan look. But a couple of years back I made the leap and did install one. The extra bit of additional storage space is a help. Especially this year since the wife & I are driving it to Birmingham.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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Only if you are working on a Camaro! Larry <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=2 id=quote>
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Or a Cougar.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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How often would you recommend rebuilding your carb with a kit? Consider a seasonal cruiser with about 1K miles a year....
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I did my rebuild back in '99 as I recall inconjunction with the major overhaul of the engine. The car has been on the road since Mar 2000, and driven very close to 20k miles since then. To date, no internal/external leaks, performs extremely well, maintains its' adjustments and there is no rebuild planned anytime soon. I reckon what I'm saying is; I don't consider rebuild a time sensitive necessity. Instead I believe that when its performance starts to degrade, then that is when to act.</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Probably someone dipped into the 'sauce' a bit to heavy that work day, and couldn't tell which end was which on the arms while paint dipping that day.[Blocked Image: http://s4.tinypic.com/30w2jyw_th.jpg]
<font face='Comic Sans MS'>Welcome John. There is a ton of collective knowledge on this site that can assist with any Q you may have. Looking forward to that pix of your new kar!</font id='Comic Sans MS'>
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<font face='Comic Sans MS'>I'm a fan of original data plates too. Although I have enough things incorrect and/or sourced from other donor K's to fill a small note pad, I didn't even consider replacing the original data plate.
It did however, take some doing to rid it of the various coats of paint it had collected over the years, without causing additional damage. But IMHO that one item, as scruffy as it looks (e.g. unfixable scraps and mars), simply authenticates a K car (or any other for that matter), many times better than a shiney new replacement could do.
If a kar is to be judged, I suppose a bad looking but original data plate would be a point loser. If that is so, seems a shame. In the interest of originality, it should be treated as a neutral. No points gained or lost.
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