Posts by bobmannel

    Sorry for the late weigh-in on this subject. I had an unusal situation where I had a low-mileage HiPo engine, complete except for the flywheel. I plan to use this engine without replacing any of the reciprocating or rotating components. It is also going into a Fairlane K-code automatic. So, I needed a HiPo flex-plate. These are impossible to find. But, I came across an NOS 302 flex-plate stamped C8OP-C and decided it would be a good candidate to have it rebalanced from 28.2 oz.-in. to 30.4 oz.-in. Not only does the NOS flex-plate give me perfect ring-gear teeth, but it will be near perfect in imbalance to add to an already perfectly balanced engine (sans flex-plate).


    I talked to John Cavataio at Dynotech Engineering Services in Troy, Michigan (248-362-2777) (http://www.dynotechengineering.com/) about what they could do. He said, “we set the flex-plate up on our STR balance machine and compensate for 28.2 oz-in of imbalance on the machine’s dial plate, neutralizing the existing imbalance. We then add 2.2 oz-in of material 180 degrees from the comp weight to raise the imbalance to 30.4 oz-in.” My cost was $175. Now I have a perfectly functioning HiPo flex-plate to add to my engine assembly. Dynotech's workmanship was first-class as can be seen in the photo below.

    [Blocked Image: http://www.fordsmallblock.com/Pictures/flex-plate-HiPo.jpg]

    Production cast iron bellhousing were not used until 1965 (6-bolt) and then only on trucks. They carry a C5TA casting number initially. These are used with the big flywheel. Never used on a passenger car near as I can tell. There were some Cobra cast iron bellhousing, but these were special performance items.

    The C5AE-6015N block was used for both the 2V 63 Galaxie 289 engine and the HiPo 63 Fairlane engine. On the blueprints for the HiPo block, it will state that it is the same as the standard engine (by listing its engineering number) and requiring it pass a dye pentrant inspection without indications and call for the substitution of the heavy-duty main bearing caps (by engineering number).


    A 3D1 block casting is too early for a 5 sequential number. Could be another stamping or numbers missing. What is the assembly date code? It is located on the head surface all the way forward on the driver's side (near the distributor hole). That number will help see where it might fall in assembly, however, the date would not be before 3D1.


    It is not uncommon for a crank to have a C3AE number in the casting. It doesn't mean anything special.

    Anyone who has met Jon knows he is an intense person. I wish I had his energy level. He has done some amazing things, like tune up a 4100 on the spot during a Mustang National show as a seminar. I worked with him in the early days on carburetor identification for small blocks. He was very passionate about carburetors and easy to talk to. With energy can come an intensity about a subject that can frustrate a guy when dealing with differing opinions. Just comes with the territory. Jon knows his carburetors. He can be trusted to do his best, and make things right if he makes a mistake. Hard to ask for more....

    The same flywheel casting was used on the 1963 221 and 260 V8. To tell the difference between the 221 and 260 you have to look for a circle letter along the outer perimeter on the trapezoid side of the flywheel. Circle E was the 221. Circle G was the 260. The difference was in the imbalance. The 221 was 23.1 oz. in. The 260 was 24.5 oz. in.

    At one time I painstakingly added up all the sources for 289 HiPo engines -- all the Cobras, Shelbys, Fairlanes, etc. Using the stats for Mustangs, I came up with about 24,000. Problem is, HOTROD magazine quoted a number of 17,000 for HiPo production in a 1971 article. I would presume that the author got that number from Ford, since it was only a few years after 289 HiPo production ended. So, either this number is wrong, or the stats on Mustangs are wrong. I tried a couple times to find out where the Mustang stats came from by writing to the author of the book I found them in, but he did not answer my letters. Through Kevin Marti I got the stats on the 1967 Mustangs and they were close but not an exact match to the stat that was published for 1967. So, I remain suspicious of the numbers given for 1965-66 Mustang HiPos.

    C3OZ-6200-C is the correct number. I did not find C4OZ-6200-B in any Ford parts book. You might want to ask for a picture of the box.


    All 289 rods will have C3AE-D markings (although some might be missing the number or lack the D). The HiPo rods were handled differently and machined for the larger bolts.

    Actually, Ford never sold a replacement 289 HiPo piston other than standard size and .003" O/S. For high performance applications, Ford perferred you buy a service block. Aftermarket suppliers, however, did sell the more traditional oversizes. I came across a set of vintage TRW 289 HiPo pistons in .030" O/S at a swap meet once. They had the traditional long 289 skirts rather than the 302 skirts. They were forged. Got to work with slightly larger piston-to-cylinder clearances with forged pistons, but probably about as close to "stock" as you could ask for in a overbore 289 HiPo.

    Anyone ever heard of a Ford rebuilt HiPo distributor?


    I know Ford made new ones. I have seen Autolites with date codes 9F6, 9F23, 0B12, 0F10, 0G2, 0H9, 0L2, 1A20, 1D23, 1H25, and Motorcrafts with date codes 1J20, 1L6, 2B03, 3J4, 5F24, 5K20, 8C27, 9C27, 1A20, 1D20.


    So, it looks like Autolites went to the end of 1971 production and Motorcraft began with 1972. If so, some of the date codes like 1A20 and 1D20 could be 1981 or even 1991?. I also noted on boxes a possible date code of 053089 and 101991. Could the later style distributors (with the covered advance housing and metal tags) gone into the early 1990s?


    But, what about rebuilds?

    I understand there are two designs of the C5AF-10A352-H pulley. One has the stamping fairly close (perhaps a tad over 1/8" away) to the center hub step-down and the other about 5/16" away. Whenever I see the back side of the pulleys with the close stamping, it has an outer perimeter of about 3/16", then the pulley steps down slightly until the step up at the hub. I don't believe I have seen a picture of the back side of the one with the stamping about 5/16" away. I have two of these pulleys that are supposed to be originals and have sufficient groove wear in the steel to suggest they are originals. The back side is flat with no stepdown. There is a step up at the hub. Both weigh within one-half ounce of each other (1 lb. 13.5 oz.). Anyone come across this style pulley?

    My notebook in which I originally wrote the numbers is #1 as 28-3/4" and #4 as 24-1/8". This does make sense as 4 is an easy direct route since the spark plug terminal faces forward. On the number one, the wire must go forward, then loop around to attach to the spark plug. Remember that this is on an original set with all straight boots. There was no angled boot on #1 to shorten the distance.